AC Repair

[CVR222NV]

AC blowing hot air and green Freon on the garage floor. Took it to a local shop who does AC and they indicated compressor not engaging, condenser damaged, and Schraeder valves leaking Freon. They recommended the following for $900

1. Replace compressor (Denso)
2. Replace condenser (OEM)
3. Replace seals and O rings from discharge and suction lines

History as best as I can recollect is that the compressor is original but I did replace the clutch. Otherwise just recharge the system a few times. Truck has 192,250 miles so it is probably time and I'm in Vegas so it's "warm."

Questions:

1. I'm thinking just replace the compressor this time. Any issue with the Denso? Any other recommendations? OEM?
2. I have attached a photo of the condenser. The entire top edge of the condenser fins are bent. Hood doesn't appear to be hitting the condenser so not sure what caused all fins to be bent. Tech said this was not good. There are other places where the condenser has damage but note that probably 85% of the font of the condenser is fine. I guess I'm questioning if the condenser really needs to be replaced?
3. Not opposed to replacing all the seals and O-rings given the leaks and the age of the truck. Any recommendations?

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1
CONDENSER A/C
55056694AA
Replaced by: 55057095AA
$472.00
$325.45

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1
COMPRESSOR Air Conditioning With Clutch
55111411AC
Replaced by: 55111411AH
$352.00
$243.71

As always I appreciate your recommendations.

 

[BigPapa]

Bent fins, unless a LOT of them are bent and you can’t comb them out, is no reason to replace a condenser. It would need to be replaced if the compressor has failed and there is trash in it or if it has a hole or leak in it.

I ALWAYS replace the Schrader valves if the system is down, especially the high side.

Where is the leak? Schraders? Compressor? A line or the condenser?

Nothing wrong with a Denso compressor.

 

[CVR222NV]

Thanks for the response! When I noticed the green Freon on the garage floor I crawled under the truck and it was coming off the bottom of the compressor. See photo of the compressor where the dust has accumulated where the lines come into the compressor. The tech said it was leaking from the Shrader valves but I see only two valves, one at the air box and one on the accumulator (see photos), and no evidence of a leak there. I do see some dust accumulated on the line coming from the condenser (see photo but it's a little blurred). I don't see any current leaks probably because the compressor is not charging. I don't see any evidence of any leaks coming from the condenser. If I'm going to do this repair just want to get it all done at once and not have to revisit for awhile.

 

[cerberusiam]

Time to replace the Accumulator Filter\Dryer also since you want to do all the o-rings possible in the system when it is down.

 

[BigPapa]

YES, absolutely. I forgot to mention that. Anytime you open the system up, actually disconnecting lines or replacing more than a Schrader valve, I’d replace the accumulator/dryer.

 

[CVR222NV]

Thanks Scott/Cerb. I think I have a game plan!

 

[MMeier]

while its apart replace liquid line... has orifice tube in it and transducer also. just did this one my 03

 

[CVR222NV]

while its apart replace liquid line... has orifice tube in it and transducer also. just did this one my 03

MMeier, there appear to be two liquid lines. Which one or both?

Mopar Part No.: 55057016AA
ACCUMULAT-AIR CONDITIONING - See 24 in the diagram below

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Part Description ACCUMULATOR Air Conditioning
Manufacturer Mopar. This genuine Mopar part is guaranteed by Mopar's factory warranty.
Your Price: $74.75
Retail Price: $109.00
You Save: $34.25

Mopar Part No.: 55057015AB
-A/C SUCTION & DISCHARGE - See 28 in the diagram below

Part Description LINE A/C Suction & Discharge
Replaced By 55057015AC
Manufacturer Mopar. This genuine Mopar part is guaranteed by Mopar's factory warranty.
Your Price: $87.09
Retail Price: $126.00
You Save: $38.91

Mopar Part No.: 55056808AA
LINE-A/C LIQUID - See 14 in the diagram below

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Part Description LINE A/C Liquid
Manufacturer Mopar. This genuine Mopar part is guaranteed by Mopar's factory warranty.
Your Price: $69.59
Retail Price: $101.00
You Save: $31.41

Mopar Part No.: 55056693AB
LINE-A/C LIQUID - See 12 in the diagram below

Part Description LINE A/C Liquid
Replaced By 55056693AC
Manufacturer Mopar. This genuine Mopar part is guaranteed by Mopar's factory warranty.
Your Price: $25.30
Retail Price: $36.70
You Save: $11.40


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[MMeier]

PN 14 is the one with the orifice tube staked into it. Orifice tube is what meters the amount of Freon flowing through the system and filters nasty stuff as well . PITA to change since you have to remove battery box and air filter apparatus .

 

[Tuesdak]

Most AC shops simply ignore the cooling fan(s). Failed electric or old worn out fan clutches go unnoticed while the AC system fails over and over. Las Vegas, Phoenix, AZ and a couple other places just blow people's mind when the 105-121 degree F heat hits and EVERYTHING isn't perfect on an AC system. The cooling fan is part of the AC system on most vehicles. Yet it's often overlooked by AC shops because the engine temp is "fine". I am one of the few that actually watch the AC condenser temperature via the head pressure on a Smarty Touch.

I suggest you replace the fan clutch with a new OEM Mopar fan clutch before replacing the condenser. (A picture of your condenser would help. Because if it's really "clogged" by bent over fins a good fan can't move air no matter what.) The AC system needs the fan working more than the engine does. Can I assume your fan clutch is over 5-6 years old? A lazy fan clutch that takes it's time to get up to speed causes extreme head pressures that can blow the system relief valve open and dump 1/2 the system charge, slip the compressor clutch esp. when kicking in when the head pressure is high, or blow seals. The hottest seal under the most pressure is the high side discharge hose washer off the compressor. If the compressor clutch slips long enough it opens a thermal fuse in the coil and the clutch coil is done. Any hotter and it can catch on fire thus the thermal fuse ... the fuse can save the belt and bearing so you can make it home if you are lucky. A failed compressor shaft seal can oil up the clutch and slip it as well.

I call a fan clutch that's 5 years old "old" and due for replacement. The non-EV fan clutches loose 200 RPM per year and at 5 years old have lost 1000 RPM. The test procedure for our EV fan is a joke - 15 min to "do something". Without enough fan RPM (airflow) The AC system will fail long before 15 min go by. At 6+ years old the EV fan on my 2003 was lazy to kick in causing 400+ PSI spikes on the system all the time. Even coming off the freeway or stopping for a light would spike pressures until I replaced the old lazy fan clutch. It was a gradual failure dumping a lot of refrigerant due to open relief valves over the past 2 years. The factory compressor clutch also burned up from constant high head pressure combined with miles.

These systems depend on the fan "Getting with the program" and turning on quickly when the AC head pressure rises. My 2003 won't even shut off the compressor when it sees 450 PSI a "bug" or was simply missed in the ECM code for 2003 and maybe other years. The condenser isn't a very big heat sink so if it doesn't have enough airflow from debris clogging it, bent fins, or no fan it gets hot and the head pressure goes up quick.

It wouldn't hurt to check that the charge air cooler and the radiator fins are also not clogged up with debris.

If you are going to replace the condenser I suggest you find a place that can put a thermal dispersant on it. It made a difference for me.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...thermal-dispersant-on-an-ac-condenser.264486/

 

[RVTRKN]

Change liquid line with the orfice that meter's the refrigerant. Change suction line drier and flush out the evaporator and remaining lines. Change the compressor and clutch as an assembly. If you have the time, remove the liquid line and take a pipe cutter to the screen section and inspect it. If its full of crap, replace condenser, if not, flush it out when you flush out the evaporator. You can buy the kits online cheap, but they are Chi-comms. My Chi-comm kit is still holding out on its third year.

 

[CVR222NV]

Most AC shops simply ignore the cooling fan(s). Failed electric or old worn out fan clutches go unnoticed while the AC system fails over and over. Las Vegas, Phoenix, AZ and a couple other places just blow people's mind when the 105-121 degree F heat hits and EVERYTHING isn't perfect on an AC system. The cooling fan is part of the AC system on most vehicles. Yet it's often overlooked by AC shops because the engine temp is "fine". I am one of the few that actually watch the AC condenser temperature via the head pressure on a Smarty Touch.

I suggest you replace the fan clutch with a new OEM Mopar fan clutch before replacing the condenser. (A picture of your condenser would help. Because if it's really "clogged" by bent over fins a good fan can't move air no matter what.) The AC system needs the fan working more than the engine does. Can I assume your fan clutch is over 5-6 years old? A lazy fan clutch that takes it's time to get up to speed causes extreme head pressures that can blow the system relief valve open and dump 1/2 the system charge, slip the compressor clutch esp. when kicking in when the head pressure is high, or blow seals. The hottest seal under the most pressure is the high side discharge hose washer off the compressor. If the compressor clutch slips long enough it opens a thermal fuse in the coil and the clutch coil is done. Any hotter and it can catch on fire thus the thermal fuse ... the fuse can save the belt and bearing so you can make it home if you are lucky. A failed compressor shaft seal can oil up the clutch and slip it as well.

I call a fan clutch that's 5 years old "old" and due for replacement. The non-EV fan clutches loose 200 RPM per year and at 5 years old have lost 1000 RPM. The test procedure for our EV fan is a joke - 15 min to "do something". Without enough fan RPM (airflow) The AC system will fail long before 15 min go by. At 6+ years old the EV fan on my 2003 was lazy to kick in causing 400+ PSI spikes on the system all the time. Even coming off the freeway or stopping for a light would spike pressures until I replaced the old lazy fan clutch. It was a gradual failure dumping a lot of refrigerant due to open relief valves over the past 2 years. The factory compressor clutch also burned up from constant high head pressure combined with miles.

These systems depend on the fan "Getting with the program" and turning on quickly when the AC head pressure rises. My 2003 won't even shut off the compressor when it sees 450 PSI a "bug" or was simply missed in the ECM code for 2003 and maybe other years. The condenser isn't a very big heat sink so if it doesn't have enough airflow from debris clogging it, bent fins, or no fan it gets hot and the head pressure goes up quick.

It wouldn't hurt to check that the charge air cooler and the radiator fins are also not clogged up with debris.

If you are going to replace the condenser I suggest you find a place that can put a thermal dispersant on it. It made a difference for me.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...thermal-dispersant-on-an-ac-condenser.264486/

First, thank you for your response!

Photo of the condenser with the bent fins is in my first post. What do you think? I can't figure what would have caused the bent fins other than the spray wash when I'm cleaning the grill. Bottom portion of condenser you can't see in the photo is perfect.

No debris on the radiator or intercooler or condenser. Mostly bugs. Truck gets used off road but gets a regular spray wash.

Cooling fan/clutch is 13 years old! Original. Never changed. I now wonder if it is even working. Probably due for a new one regardless. Ouch!

Mopar Part No.: 55056990AB
CLUTCH-FAN

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Part Description DRIVE Fan
Replaced By 55056990AC
Manufacturer Mopar. This genuine Mopar part is guaranteed by Mopar's factory warranty.
Your Price: $362.25
Retail Price: $525.00
You Save: $162.75

 

[BigPapa]

Pretty good price. My wholesale supplier is at $350.

 

[CVR222NV]

Change liquid line with the orfice that meter's the refrigerant. Change suction line drier and flush out the evaporator and remaining lines. Change the compressor and clutch as an assembly. If you have the time, remove the liquid line and take a pipe cutter to the screen section and inspect it. If its full of crap, replace condenser, if not, flush it out when you flush out the evaporator. You can buy the kits online cheap, but they are Chi-comms. My Chi-comm kit is still holding out on its third year.

Thanks Steve! I'm beginning to wonder if I should just replace the whole AC system? I have owned the truck since new and have only replaced the compressor clutch and done the Heater Treater doors in 13 years. Why risk using the old condenser with all new parts otherwise? I guess it's just part of the program when you decide to restore your old truck rather than buy a new one! As you well know it is hotter than Haites here in Vegas! I'm tired of running my 4/40 air (4 windows going 40mph)!

 

[Tuesdak]

First, thank you for your response!

Photo of the condenser with the bent fins is in my first post. What do you think? I can't figure what would have caused the bent fins other than the spray wash when I'm cleaning the grill. Bottom portion of condenser you can't see in the photo is perfect.

No debris on the radiator or intercooler or condenser. Mostly bugs. Truck gets used off road but gets a regular spray wash.

Cooling fan/clutch is 13 years old! Original. Never changed. I now wonder if it is even working. Probably due for a new one regardless. Ouch!

Mopar Part No.: 55056990AB
CLUTCH-FAN

#ad

Part Description DRIVE Fan
Replaced By 55056990AC
Manufacturer Mopar. This genuine Mopar part is guaranteed by Mopar's factory warranty.
Your Price: $362.25
Retail Price: $525.00
You Save: $162.75

Ok so I need glasses and missed that. Looks like a normal condenser where a mechanic stood on the bumper and toes simply kick the fins. Spray wash can also do it. It doesn't look that bad. The condenser is the first "filter" in the AC system as it sees anything the compressor spits out first. Others has said how to check the AC system for debris to make the call to change it.

 

[PLohr]

If you have the factory service manual, there is a procedure for testing the electronic viscous fan clutch. My truck is a 2003 model. Page 343 if you have the PDF (or page 7-56). Part of the test requires a bi-directional scan tool.

I mentioned this because I searched for a procedure to test the fan clutch but didn't find one.

 

[RPosey]

Did I miss something? I did not see where I can purchase the replace parts at the price quoted. Would you please provide where to purchase.

 

[mfurrh55]

Auto zone sells flush kits too, used theirs when I changed out my compressor and lines and evaporator 3 yrs ago

 

[CVR222NV]

Did I miss something? I did not see where I can purchase the replace parts at the price quoted. Would you please provide where to purchase.

The mechanic that did the work actually works for a local Dodge dealer and gets the parts at 10% over cost . But I looked up the parts here and they matched the prices I paid:

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/?ut...aign=2019laborday&utm_content=happy_labor_day