Here I am

Unable to pass smog test !

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2015 ram 3500 6.7L wont charge, goes into batter saver mode

Help!!!! 2008 Ram 3500 6 Speed DOA

Well, problem is still NOT fixed, but here is what has happened since all the advice : Took it to Vacaville, CA dealership (where purchased). Mechanic states to drive it between 600 to 1,200 miles. Says flash / computer is up to date, and not needed. Have driven it approx. 700+ miles. Replaced both batteries with high quality Napa Brand. Removed one ground terminal at a time and touched the battery post to get rid of any excess build up. Watched the sparks slowly dwindle down to nothing. Went to another smog shop and they double checked the Comprehensive Monitor. They confirmed that it has yet to "Complete". Latest smog shop gave me a "Component Monitor Drive Cycle.
Basically it says : "Start engine, allow it to idle for 1-2 minutes. System volts at 10-18V. 2. Driving instructions : "Drive in stop / go traffic, then at different speeds between 25 & 55 MPH for several minutes. 3. At the end of the drive cycle, review the status of the component monitor on scan tool". This is kind of what I am doing already, for several hundred miles !
Must tell you that the "P0234" DTC code has come on twice, when I romped on it. Smog tech says "If I clear it, you start all over". Would that be a cause for "Comprehensive" Monitor not to complete ??? P0234 = Turbo Boost Limit Exceed.
Another question : Is the small dash-pot / small round canister, with linkage that is attached to the waste-gate, can you move it by hand, by the linkage, or will it only work in a pressure / vacuum situation ?
I am seriously ready to purchase a decent scan tool, with absolutely has to "Monitors" check. Watched the Blue Driver video, then read all the reviews, and am not quite 100% sure about that unit.
I think the California Air Resources Board is patiently waiting for my truck to end up 3" thick !
Any other ideas fellows ?
Thanks.............again.
 
If you keep seeing the P0234 code pop up occasionally then thats why your OBS is remaining incomplete. You need to find out why that code is showing up...
 
^^^ What Katoom said.
Have you considered replacing the MAP sensor? There have been many write ups in the forums pointing that direction.
 
Katoom & Boeing Diesel, thanks for the suggestions. Napa Auto parts says MAP sensor cost $195.00. Sure would like to know how to check "if" it's bad (somehow) before forking over $200, and find out its not the problem ! P0234 code is "Turbo boost limit exceeded". If I can remember correctly, whenever I would put my foot into it, I would hear the WOOF,WOOF,WOOF sound,when I let up. Possibly coming from the waste-gate ? What does one check, in order to find out if waste-gate is actually working correctly ? Scanner showed at about 49 MPH, the CEL came on. What do I take off and inspect and / or change, or look for ?
We might be getting closer, but not quite there , just yet.
Thanks again.
 
Assuming you're truck is still running under stock power levels and you dont have injectors or a tuner, what you can do is pick up a new MAP and pull yours out. Then compare them with and ohms tester to see if they're the same. If yours has a completely different reading than the new one then it may be worth replacing it.
Also, Geno's Garage has them much cheaper. https://www.genosgarage.com/category/s?keyword=map
 
Currently.......I have unplugged the MAP sensor from the Banks Power pack unit, AND the main little wire that comes from the pick up wire from the injection pump. A fellow mechanic said to take that out of the equation. NO hopped up injectors, or tuners.
MUCH better price at Geno's garage. Thanks for the tip.
 
Woofing...etc sounds more like an issue with the waste gate. As it was explained to me ions ago, under extreme power I should hear a Woosh which indicates waste gate dumping excess pressure. If it's Barking it's the waste gate not opening up. Just a thought you might want to investigate. Good luck and best gregg
 
Currently.......I have unplugged the MAP sensor from the Banks Power pack unit, AND the main little wire that comes from the pick up wire from the injection pump. A fellow mechanic said to take that out of the equation. NO hopped up injectors, or tuners.
MUCH better price at Geno's garage. Thanks for the tip.

So you do have power modifications... Just know that if the turbo makes over around 21-22 psi then the MAP will recognize an overboost. Its likely that the Banks Power Pack also involved changing the wastegate limits to allow more boost. If thats the case then you'll continually trigger an overboost.
Most tuners have a "boost fooler" which prevents the MAP from recognizing boost over stock parameters. This is why someone cant install larger injectors without adding a tuner or a standalone boost fooler.

The whooshing sound when you're aggressively on the throttle and then off the throttle is boost pressure trying to escape back through the turbo compressor. Boost builds up and is consumed by the cylinders, but when you let off the throttle that boost has nowhere to go so it needs to find a way out. Under normal boost pressure this isnt a problem and you'll simply hear the howling whoosh of air from the turbo. But under higher than normal boost generally with the stock or undersized turbo, the amount of pressure is too great for a mild escape back through the compressor and it will cause the turbo shaft to abruptly stop or even turn in the opposite direction. Thats called "barking" and its a woof woof sound with more abusing tone. You can look up some turbo barking noises on YouTube and you'll find some people showing what it sounds like.

If you're wondering what the pssst sound you hear from turbo rice burners, thats a blow off valve. Gas engines use them because they have an intake venturi where diesels (except some newer ones) dont use a venturi. The entire intake system is wide open all the time and the throttle is controlled by fuel volume injected, not air volume. Totally different process of engine function and is why diesels can run a wildly variable air/fuel ratio whereas gasoline cant and must remain close to the 14.7:1.
 
A thought. When you hear the woosh are you accelerating "and then" the trans shifts to a higher gear. This happens to me occasionally when at say 40 or so and accelerating as I'm merging onto the highway then the trans shifts and woosh. It can also make a similar sound (which is more like the bark KATOOM describes) when you are accelerating and quickly let off the go pedal=there's no place for the built up boost to go when you get off the go pedal, except back to the turbo. Also as mentioned prior there should be a boost fooler that was included (at least in most power adder kits) that if not used will throw over boost code.

Maybe clear the code and start over making certain not to let off the go pedal too soon as well as trying not to get close to the shift point while under higher boost levels. Glad I don't live in a state where they sniff older diesels and expect them to be the same as the newer ones...
 
I've been reading this from the beginning and seems to me the OP would have mentioned the Banks Power Pack in his first post.:eek: Make a WHOLE different animal, chasing down rabbit holes. :confused: Did at any point, OP try running the truck without the Banks connected?o_O

Ron
 
I've been reading this from the beginning and seems to me the OP would have mentioned the Banks Power Pack in his first post.:eek:

Are you saying you just noticed he mentioned the BPP in his first post or that he should have mentioned it in his first post?
 
Are you saying you just noticed he mentioned the BPP in his first post or that he should have mentioned it in his first post?
My apologies to the OP AND the gallery for missing the BPP in the OPs first post. Dang, I must be losing it.

Sorry again, Ron
 
Well, it passed !
I installed a Banks engine exhaust brake. Someone, somewhere, mentioned, "Remove the plug from the little controller unit from where is is mounted, under the dash, next to the steering wheel."
The only thing I did differently :Removed the plug, and drove it for, maybe 6 miles. Came home, and just for $hits and grins, checked with the code reader, and Wa-la, "All monitors completed" ! I damn near kissed the truck !
So, another fuel efficient oil engine saved from "Those people" at the Bay Area Air Quality Management Board !
Remember this if a fellow CTD owner is having problems with (Those damn ) Monitors !
Thanks to you all who tried to help.
Peter
 
Well, it passed !
I installed a Banks engine exhaust brake. Someone, somewhere, mentioned, "Remove the plug from the little controller unit from where is is mounted, under the dash, next to the steering wheel."
The only thing I did differently :Removed the plug, and drove it for, maybe 6 miles. Came home, and just for $hits and grins, checked with the code reader, and Wa-la, "All monitors completed" ! I damn near kissed the truck !
So, another fuel efficient oil engine saved from "Those people" at the Bay Area Air Quality Management Board !
Remember this if a fellow CTD owner is having problems with (Those damn ) Monitors !
Thanks to you all who tried to help.
Peter
What you need to do is curb the profanity, nobody wants to read it
 
Well, it passed !
I installed a Banks engine exhaust brake. Someone, somewhere, mentioned, "Remove the plug from the little controller unit from where is is mounted, under the dash, next to the steering wheel."
The only thing I did differently :Removed the plug, and drove it for, maybe 6 miles. Came home, and just for $hits and grins, checked with the code reader, and Wa-la, "All monitors completed" ! I damn near kissed the truck !
So, another fuel efficient oil engine saved from "Those people" at the Bay Area Air Quality Management Board !
Remember this if a fellow CTD owner is having problems with (Those damn ) Monitors !
Thanks to you all who tried to help.
Peter
I know this is an old post but I found it in the search after posting a new thread about this but I am having the same problem with my truck but I dont know what plug he is talking about under the dash that cleared his readiness monitors? Does anyone know?
 
I know this is an old post but I found it in the search after posting a new thread about this but I am having the same problem with my truck but I dont know what plug he is talking about under the dash that cleared his readiness monitors? Does anyone know?
 
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