Fuel filter cap leaking big time.

[Josparkz]

I got after changing all the filters and oil in my Mrs. 2005 3500 today. I put the new fuel filter and oiled o-ring on the cap and installed it. Fired it up and it was leaking like a stuck pig. I tried tightening it, no use. I pulled it out and checked the o-ring, it looked okay. I installed it another time or two, nothing. I went down to auto parts to see about another o-ring. I got a new cap with o-ring installed. Put a good amount of dielectric grease on the threads and o-ring. Thinking I may ave overtightened it, I got out the torque wrench, set it to the 25 pounds stated on the cap. I ended having to use an extension, so I dropped the setting to 15 pounds. I go to put it in. and it pops before it got torqued, like it got stripped or broke. Tried tightening it and it leaked like a pig. I pulled it out and couldn't see anything wrong. I can't see that the cannister part is damaged.
So, anyone ever have a deal like this? Anyone have any thoughts on fixing this?
Thanks

 

[Ozymandias]

25 INCH Pound?
Did you by accident cross-thread it?



I never had a problem like this on mine, and barely torque it more then finger tight because its plastic.
Also I didn't have to use a tool to screw on that cap, it goes easy down the threads just by hand.

 

[Ozymandias]

Ahem... most stupid question, you did close the drain valve at the canister?

So it is really that cap that spills fuel?

 

[Josparkz]

25 INCH Pound?
Did you by accident cross-thread it?



I never had a problem like this on mine, and barely torque it more then finger tight because its plastic.
Also I didn't have to use a tool to screw on that cap, it goes easy down the threads just by hand.

I read it as foot pounds.

 

[Josparkz]

Ahem... most stupid question, you did close the drain valve at the canister?

So it is really that cap that spills fuel?

Yep, I closed the valve. Every time. The fuel is spewing out the top of the filter unit, about where the top screws in..

 

[Ozymandias]

That doesn't make sense, because the top cap screws down flush with the canister, even if there would be no o-ring at all it still wouldn't leak like a broken hose.

You checked the inside of the empty canister, there is nothing left in it from the previous filter?
You snapped the new filter correctly onto the cap and installed it as a unit?
The new filter has the same dimensions as the old one?

You used two different caps..

I really can't imagine what's going wrong with that filter without having my hands on.

Add; 25ftp is ok, I checked the FSM for it, I did it always just by hand with small wrench for some little end torque.

 

[Josparkz]

That doesn't make sense, because the top cap screws down flush with the canister, even if there would be no o-ring at all it still wouldn't leak like a broken hose.

You checked the inside of the empty canister, there is nothing left in it from the previous filter?
You snapped the new filter correctly onto the cap and installed it as a unit?
The new filter has the same dimensions as the old one?

You used two different caps..

I really can't imagine what's going wrong with that filter without having my hands on.

Add; 25ftp is ok, I checked the FSM for it, I did it always just by hand with small wrench for some little end torque.

Well, I'm baffled. Everything should be right, but it's not. I'm kind of wondering if the last person who changed that filter (at a dealership) didn't cross thread the aluminum part and then jam it back together with a rattle gun.

 

[RVTRKN]

If your cap and "O" ring is correct, you may have cracked the canister when overtightening to 25' pounds. I've only changed mine a couple of times with my 07 C&C and every filter change on a 2014 2500 CTD, but 25' pounds seems to tight to me, the "O" ring can bind up, or cause the threads to give way ruining the threads. That might be why they feel stripped.

 

[brucejohnson]

Several things come to mind. Assuming all was good prior to the filter change, backtrack to everything that was done and experienced during the change, no matter how small or seemingly insignificant.
When you installed the new O-ring, did you remove the old one? (Old small block Chevy canister oil filter issue from way back)
Check the seat of both the lid and cannister for squareness or damage.
Check the lid's threads for evidence of cross threading. Sometimes it is very subtle evidence; run your fingernail along the threads and look very closely.
Check the cannister threads the same way.
Look for very fine hairline cracks in the cannister case around the threaded area, both inside and outside of the case. If it was over-torqued it may have split in the threaded area...or, both lids cracked if over-torqued.

Good luck with this issue. It can be challenging at times.

RVTRKN - You beat me to the send button...

 

[Josparkz]

If your cap and "O" ring is correct, you may have cracked the canister when overtightening to 25' pounds. I've only changed mine a couple of times with my 07 C&C and every filter change on a 2014 2500 CTD, but 25' pounds seems to tight to me, the "O" ring can bind up, or cause the threads to give way ruining the threads. That might be why they feel stripped.

 

[Josparkz]

Perhaps.

 

[Josparkz]

Several things come to mind. Assuming all was good prior to the filter change, backtrack to everything that was done and experienced during the change, no matter how small or seemingly insignificant.
When you installed the new O-ring, did you remove the old one? (Old small block Chevy canister oil filter issue from way back)
Check the seat of both the lid and cannister for squareness or damage.
Check the lid's threads for evidence of cross threading. Sometimes it is very subtle evidence; run your fingernail along the threads and look very closely.
Check the cannister threads the same way.
Look for very fine hairline cracks in the cannister case around the threaded area, both inside and outside of the case. If it was over-torqued it may have split in the threaded area...or, both lids cracked if over-torqued.

Good luck with this issue. It can be challenging at times.

RVTRKN - You beat me to the send button...

Definitely only one o-ring at a time.
I can't see if the caps are cracked, but I'll look some more. As far as the canister is concerned, I can barely reach it and I doubt I could see a small crack from a distance. maybe take a picture so I can blow it up.
The real kicker is, the shop manual we bought on a cd has on indexing/search function on it. So, 7568 screens to scroll through. Not.
Down to the Dodge dealership to visit the service dept. before they close.

 

[Ozymandias]

If you want to do a close inspection take off the inner wheel liner, it's just a couple little screws then you have the unit right in front of your face.
And it's easier access to it anyways now that there is a problem.

 

[RVTRKN]

Put a drop light around it to help with seeing the crack from the inside and for pictures as well, if there is a crack it should show a streak of light, hopefully anyway. Put a light on the inside to do the same, if you have something small enough to fit inside.

 

[RVTRKN]

If you want to do a close inspection take off the inner wheel liner, it's just a couple little screws then you have the unit right in front of your face.
And it's easier access to it anyways now that there is a problem.

X's 2 ^^^^

 

[Josparkz]

If you want to do a close inspection take off the inner wheel liner, it's just a couple little screws then you have the unit right in front of your face.
And it's easier access to it anyways now that there is a problem.

I was thinking that was probably the way to get at it Thanks.

 

[Josparkz]

'''

Put a drop light around it to help with seeing the crack from the inside and for pictures as well, if there is a crack it should show a streak of light, hopefully anyway. Put a light on the inside to do the same, if you have something small enough to fit inside.

Good idea. Thanks.

 

[Josparkz]

And the beat goes on. The "Napa Gold" fuel filters are 3/16" longer than the one that was in there.(I presume a Fleetguard due to the yellow o-ring). I race down to Napa to right at closing time. Only filters they have. Now, before the sun sets, I'll see if I can get a good internal depth measurement for the canister. I.m thinking put the cap on minus the filter and see if it still leaks, but I don't particularly want to run her truck even for a minute with no filter. I don't know how to disable the fuel pump like I do on my 12 valve.
I guess the real bummer on this is no shop manual. We had bought one on a cd, but it doesn't have an index or search function. It loads about 8000 screen pages on the laptop, and I'm not about to scroll thru that. The Chiltons we got for that vehicle has not been too much more helpful.
Thank you all.

 

[brucejohnson]

And the beat goes on. The "Napa Gold" fuel filters are 3/16" longer than the one that was in there.(I presume a Fleetguard due to the yellow o-ring). I race down to Napa to right at closing time. Only filters they have. Now, before the sun sets, I'll see if I can get a good internal depth measurement for the canister. I.m thinking put the cap on minus the filter and see if it still leaks, but I don't particularly want to run her truck even for a minute with no filter. I don't know how to disable the fuel pump like I do on my 12 valve.
I guess the real bummer on this is no shop manual. We had bought one on a cd, but it doesn't have an index or search function. It loads about 8000 screen pages on the laptop, and I'm not about to scroll thru that. The Chiltons we got for that vehicle has not been too much more helpful.
Thank you all.

Well, that'll do it for sure...now to get the correct size to stuff in there.
I'm the brave type. I'd pop the lid on without filter and test it. Don't you have the lift pump! Just don't start it; prime the filter housing.

 

[Ozymandias]

Na, don't do that, the stuff after the filter is big dollar.
Get the right filter and all will be fine again.