325hp engine tuning for fuel economy, 3rd injector event elimination, G56 question

[2004HPCR]

Ill get straight to the point. Im looking for hard facts about a few things.

1. Does a smarty touch installed on a 04.5+ truck remove the 3rd injector event? Or can the smarty touch be loaded with custom tunes that can?

2. Does eliminating the 3rd injection event on the 325hp 5.9 engine actually improve anything? Lower EGT/improve MPG? Prevent meltdown?

3. Can the early G56 be modified to have the same 6th gear ratio as the later version? Or is it better to just swap the gearbox entirely?

I ask because my first project truck was a early 2004 with the 305hp engine. I put a Colt Cam stage 2 in it, 64x76mm turbine he351cw, 2nd gen manifold, and a good intake, smarty junior, it has an nv5600. That truck gets an honest to god 26mpg consistently, unloaded. My friend with a 2005 truck wants me to do a bunch of work to his 325/600 engine to make it as efficient.

Sorry if these questions have been asked already. Ive been looking for other an hour and all i can find is BS and junk on cumminsforum.

Thanks.

 

[slowmover]

I’ve done nothing to my 555 and see 24-27/mpg highway. With motivation, I can do 21-mpg around town (truck is 1,200-lbs above ship weight). It’s not a magic pickup, it’s a motivated owner.

The numbers baseline must be established.

1). Operator use of FUELLY app over many months.

2). Engine Hours (to determine MPH average)

3). Use. A commuter will be different than a working truck

4). Truck spec: line by line comparison with yours, OP.

5). TARE weight from CAT Scale (Driver plus max fuel and only the gear kept permanently aboard truck. All other removed. Tires to Load & Pressure Table, then inside door sticker range. Not over the mark by more than 5-psi.

6). Tire design. Dimensions. This is bigger than cam and tuner. The typical big blunder for no real offsetting gain.

7). Lift kits, etc. Removal needed.

8). Steering. Zero slop. New body/cab bushings. New tie roads, etc. New Bilstein shocks. This is almost number two in importance.

9). Alignment. Verified.

10). Zero brake drag.

11). Tire & brake life. Both categories should be over 100k before replacement as default.

With one brake job (no EB), original clutch and two sets of tires at nearly a quarter-million miles (50/50 Town/Country), I may be rare, but am hardly alone.

Spend money to save money isn’t a winner. — First have to get numbers that tell story. — Second, analyze use and cut waste.

Along with a TARE weight, (top fuel to first shutoff), take a 200-mile drive out and back to that pump. At 60-mph and never off of cruise control. Re-fill same pump to first auto-shutoff

A). 60-mph is the aero wall. Don’t exceed. 58-59 ideal.

B). Along with that, staying in Interstate right lane and use of cruise eliminates driver bad habits. Easily replicated test by anyone in that truck.

Result is seeing what truck is capable of doing. (As operator is what needs fixing).

Need to know: what’s the annual fuel budget? How many gallons over how many miles per annum?

The percent change that can be attributed to mechanical changes is smaller than operator changes where the truck has been returned to stock, like-new condition.

That FE Test above will show minimal changes from the money spent for cam. Tuner won’t help highway at all.

C). Find annual percent highway miles after annual Average MPH

D). Owner of other truck should understand there are no magic boxes, etc, to improve a truck ALREADY BETTER THAN HE CAN DRIVE IT.

Economy = Longevity (plus, reliability)

Fuel burn isn’t significant. Like tire and brake wear, fuel economy is only an indicator of driver motivation & skill.

I drive for a living. Have been driving more than 46-years. In that time the skill level (marked by cooperation & risk avoidance) has declined to Third World level.

There are two classes of drivers now:

Women (Can’t; plus selfish)

Children (Won’t; plus inability)

I see an actual man a handful of times in over 100k annually. You’ll never see them. And, you aren’t one when at the wheel. I’ll fail you at the test within five miles of entering an Interstate. Some won’t even make the end of the entrance ramp.

How does it feel to look sorta man-like, but to identify to all others as a woman or child (in an ongoing high-speed life & death situation)?

Longevity & Safety track the same.
So does FE. (Make the connections).

Get the numbers. Analyze the use. Project the percent savings based on reality.

.

 

[Tinman]

As is stated above, there are many things that can improve mileage. But you ask about engine, so here's my 2 cents from many years of amateur tuning with EFILive. I can't speak in detail about boxed tunes as there are many with many different ways with which those tuners changed drivability to make money. Many of those tunes are frightening once you look at what they do in their tables. A good reputable tuner can do it right depending on needs. In general, the stock tune is there to do only 2 things. Firstly, meet emissions standards. And then make the engine run good enough to sell. Remove the former, and the tune can be greatly improved upon.

The 3rd event is there only a small amount of time and uses a tiny amount of fuel. It's biggest disadvantage, IMO, is unnecessary use of the the injector. Yes, it uses a small amount of fuel, but trivial. It adds no power, it does raise EGTs a little, but not nearly so much as the retarded stock timing. Some use a late shot of fuel to help spool a big single charger.

The stock timing curve is crap for mileage. Pushing that out to a positive timing in the cruising range will definitely help mileage. What I have learned, however, is you can't change much of anything in one table without changes in others to compensate elsewhere. And it can get complicated if you are meticulous about how the truck runs. For instance, increasing pressure effectively advances timing. If the stock timing is advanced in the cruising range, you don't need as much pressure. One thing that I am currently experimenting with is radically changing the pilot quantity and timing such that I can run more main timing without smoke and flatten the timing curve throughout the throttle range. One of the biggest problems with the stock main timing is that it falls off very far after TDC in low RPMs and higher throttle positions - think accelerating up at hill on the highway.

There are many things that can improve mileage, but are they cost effective? Cam will definitely help, but it will take a long time to pay for itself if you pay someone to do it. Same for free spin hubs, or injectors. If one wanted just the most efficient truck (not engine) possible, more can be done with driveline and aerodynamics than engine parts. Stock tires, stock suspension, tonneau cover will do more more mileage that all the engine mods you can do. IMO, the most cost effective way to improve engine efficiency is stock injectors, stock fueling, stock turbo, stock air and a good tune.

One last thought. Can't compare a 305 engine to 325. The 325 engine has a lot of differences to accommodate emissions that makes it a less efficient platform. The 325 has nonre-entrant pistons, wider injector spray angle, inefficient cam, vastly different base tuning, etc. that the 305 engine isn't constrained with.

 

[cerberusiam]

1. Yes and yes. The Smarty box tunes have had the 3rd event turned off since sometime in 2006 per Marco. If you wanted a single event tune you can even get that. Not the best results for a modern diesel but it is doable.

2. Not really. It was an EGR function when engine load and rpms hit a predetermined level that could enhance NOX production, but, it had to have the stock cam, turbo, and tuning to work. Once the tune is changed it is superfluous.

3. Not easily and cost effectively. Better off sourcing a replacement unit or a NV5600. However, just the trans won't do it, you need taller tires to get to a sweet spot that will be more than 55-60 mph. That has its own downfalls as to big is too heavy and all gains are negated.

A better cam will help, good tuning will help, a set of 143 degree injectors will help, a better turbo will help, tires and light weight wheels will make a difference. Will it average mid 20's for mpg, not even close. If he is lucky the average might get into the higher teens depending on his driving habits after dropping $12-15k.

 

[AH64ID]

I would go with a MM3 and a custom tune over a Touch any day. Custom tuning is much better than a box tune.

He can search that magical fuel economy with hard parts but it's unlikely to ever pay for itself. Driving habits and lying are the two best ways to improve fuel economy.

At what speeds were you getting 26/27 mpg? 45? downhill? 2wd? Hand calc or overhead?

26/27 isn't realistic, not even on a well modded 03/04. I had all the mods needed for a very fuel efficient 5.9 (cam, turbo, pistons, injectors, tuning, NV5600, spin free hubs, etc) and it still wouldn't consistently break 20 let alone 25. Best part is my bone stock '18 can get better mileage at 65, but it also can get slightly worse towing.

 

[Prairie Dog]

At what speeds were you getting 26/27 mpg? 45? downhill? 2wd? Hand calc or overhead?

26/27 isn't realistic, not even on a well modded 03/04. I had all the mods needed for a very fuel efficient 5.9 (cam, turbo, pistons, injectors, tuning, NV5600, spin free hubs, etc) and it still wouldn't consistently break 20 let alone 25. Best part is my bone stock '18 can get better mileage at 65, but it also can get slightly worse towing.

This. I've had my truck since new when it could hit 23 but that was in the 50~55 mph range and unloaded. Along came ULSD with its lower energy content and I immediately took a 2 MPG hit.
My 2WD 93 could hit 26 with good old non-ULSD at those speeds though! Still miss that truck (sniff).

Scott

 

[Regcabguy]

I’ve done nothing to my 555 and see 24-27/mpg highway. With motivation, I can do 21-mpg around town (truck is 1,200-lbs above ship weight). It’s not a magic pickup, it’s a motivated owner.

The numbers baseline must be established.

1). Operator use of FUELLY app over many months.

2). Engine Hours (to determine MPH average)

3). Use. A commuter will be different than a working truck

4). Truck spec: line by line comparison with yours, OP.

5). TARE weight from CAT Scale (Driver plus max fuel and only the gear kept permanently aboard truck. All other removed. Tires to Load & Pressure Table, then inside door sticker range. Not over the mark by more than 5-psi.

6). Tire design. Dimensions. This is bigger than cam and tuner. The typical big blunder for no real offsetting gain.

7). Lift kits, etc. Removal needed.

8). Steering. Zero slop. New body/cab bushings. New tie roads, etc. New Bilstein shocks. This is almost number two in importance.

9). Alignment. Verified.

10). Zero brake drag.

11). Tire & brake life. Both categories should be over 100k before replacement as default.

With one brake job (no EB), original clutch and two sets of tires at nearly a quarter-million miles (50/50 Town/Country), I may be rare, but am hardly alone.

Spend money to save money isn’t a winner. — First have to get numbers that tell story. — Second, analyze use and cut waste.

Along with a TARE weight, (top fuel to first shutoff), take a 200-mile drive out and back to that pump. At 60-mph and never off of cruise control. Re-fill same pump to first auto-shutoff

A). 60-mph is the aero wall. Don’t exceed. 58-59 ideal.

B). Along with that, staying in Interstate right lane and use of cruise eliminates driver bad habits. Easily replicated test by anyone in that truck.

Result is seeing what truck is capable of doing. (As operator is what needs fixing).

Need to know: what’s the annual fuel budget? How many gallons over how many miles per annum?

The percent change that can be attributed to mechanical changes is smaller than operator changes where the truck has been returned to stock, like-new condition.

That FE Test above will show minimal changes from the money spent for cam. Tuner won’t help highway at all.

C). Find annual percent highway miles after annual Average MPH

D). Owner of other truck should understand there are no magic boxes, etc, to improve a truck ALREADY BETTER THAN HE CAN DRIVE IT.

Economy = Longevity (plus, reliability)

Fuel burn isn’t significant. Like tire and brake wear, fuel economy is only an indicator of driver motivation & skill.

I drive for a living. Have been driving more than 46-years. In that time the skill level (marked by cooperation & risk avoidance) has declined to Third World level.

There are two classes of drivers now:

Women (Can’t; plus selfish)

Children (Won’t; plus inability)

I see an actual man a handful of times in over 100k annually. You’ll never see them. And, you aren’t one when at the wheel. I’ll fail you at the test within five miles of entering an Interstate. Some won’t even make the end of the entrance ramp.

How does it feel to look sorta man-like, but to identify to all others as a woman or child (in an ongoing high-speed life & death situation)?

Longevity & Safety track the same.
So does FE. (Make the connections).

Get the numbers. Analyze the use. Project the percent savings based on reality.

.

Our Honda Pilot averages 17 mpg. Hang onto that truck.

 

[2004HPCR]

Thanks for all the great replies! This would never happen on Cumminsforum haha. Bunch of intelligent guys here I can see.

So looks like the Smarty Touch is a good one to get, reason I ask about that one specifically is that it is easy to acquire here in Canada. I realize there is better out there, but unfortunately its hardly worth it to buy from across the border... politics and stupid policies only causes problems.

I figured swapping the g56 to the later version would probably be the best way to go. I imagine to the right buyer a good used early G56 is worth good money. Maybe its a swap that can happen when the right deals come up.

As far as my early 2004 truck. Yes it really does get that kind of fuel economy. Its a 4wd, quad cab. First thing to understand is that I live in Northern Canada. This means three things, slow roads, no traffic, and I hardly drive in the city. I drive 90km/hr (1600rpm) basically everywhere unless im on a big highway and there is traffic to keep up to, then ill set the cruise control to 110km/hr (2000rpm) at the most. I hand calculate all of my tanks and I watch my EGT and boot like a hawk while I drive. I dont use my service brakes much, usually roll to a stop or use my exhaust brake. Both diffs have Shell spirax S6 75w90 synthetic, engine has 5w40 T6, nv5600 has amsoil synchomesh oil, T case fresh ATF4 and all ujoints and front wheel bearings are greased with 5% moly #2 LPS wheel bearing grease. I run factory tire size pressured up to 70psi, I have a good alignment and I dont drive it like I stole it. I run a Smarty Jr on fuel economy mode, to get a timing bump. The truck runs super clean and barely has soot on the exhaust tip. What else can I say.

Im a gearhead and I do all of my own mechanics and fabrication. The parts that I put on my truck I got on sale and I borrowed a friends milling machine to bore out the turbine housing to fit that 100$US turbine. Part hobby, part having fun. Nobody else but me has ever touched my truck. Not all of these modifications had fuel economy in mind, but rather efficiency and reliability. At the end of the day I designed everything to work nicely together and everyone who has driven my truck is blown away by how great the engine feels.

Bottom line: this truck has always got damn good fuel economy. The best I can say is after all of these mods its just much easier and more consistent to get good fuel economy. When stock everything needed to be perfect, and stay there, to get the best economy. Now it just doesnt matter as much, the "sweet spot" is much broader. Thats the best way I can put it. I cant print you a graph and say "there, 4mpg gain across the board", but having a broader sweet spot isnt nothing either.

 

[p-Bar]

Just use the "lie-o-meter" don't hand calculate.

 

[Regcabguy]

Just use the "lie-o-meter" don't hand calculate.

My lie-o-meter is right on with my EFI. Pretty mediocre but I carry 2000# wet popup on my back all the time.

 

[2004HPCR]

My Lie-o-meter is optimistic for sure, but not too far off to be completely useless.

Now, what IS useless on the other hand... Is that damn oil pressure gauge on the dash that is 100% computer controlled. These engines only have an oil pressure switch, they have no way to tell the actual pressure. The computer makes it up based on OAT and RPM. What a waste of time. I don't like being lied to.

 

[Prairie Dog]

The oil pressure gauge sure puts on a show, that's for sure.
I suppose the newer trucks are just as worthless?

Scott

 

[p-Bar]

All factory gauges are a joke.

 

[slowmover]

I would go with a MM3 and a custom tune over a Touch any day. Custom tuning is much better than a box tune.

He can search that magical fuel economy with hard parts but it's unlikely to ever pay for itself. Driving habits and lying are the two best ways to improve fuel economy.

At what speeds were you getting 26/27 mpg? 45? downhill? 2wd? Hand calc or overhead?

26/27 isn't realistic, not even on a well modded 03/04. I had all the mods needed for a very fuel efficient 5.9 (cam, turbo, pistons, injectors, tuning, NV5600, spin free hubs, etc) and it still wouldn't consistently break 20 let alone 25. Best part is my bone stock '18 can get better mileage at 65, but it also can get slightly worse towing.

Over a 50,000-mile period. I’ve been posting this ten years now.

In order of importance (per Cummins or Kenworth; applicable to any vehicle):

1). Vehicle Spec. Like by line
2). Climate
3) Terrain
4). Operator Motivation

The above found that with no changes except driver big truck fuel mileage can improve by .33 between best & worst.

A). What’s the best spec 3rd Gen?
B). What’s best climate, terrain; etc?
C). What do drivers better than you know and put into practice?

The first two are obvious. The last, isn't. For me it sure doesn’t involve any stunt driving or that which places safety second

I’m NOT EVEN CLOSE to the Cummins engineer who pulled out all the stops to see better than 47-mpg. Repeatedly.

All of which is why I emphasize finding out what the truck can do in a test your 17-year-old granddaughter can perform for you.

Empty the truck of EVERYTHING that doesn’t stay aboard every single mile.

Take the driver OUT of the equation. A 200-mile roundtrip to the sane fuel pump, and — for the second time — top the tank to the FIRST auto-shutoff.

Do that test after recording cold tire temps. And driving AT LEAST 50-miles to bring tires to equalization. Which completes warmup. Then to the truck stop fuel pump. Then immediately onto the CAT Scale.

Adjust tires to spec. Minimum. Per tire manufacturers Load & Pressure Table but INSIDE truck manufacturers range.

Make that ideal with scale weighing #2 & 3 by placing port then starboard tires barely OFF scale. Each axle load is to HEAVIEST wheel value.

This is after ALL book maintenance to date less 10%.

Get the tickets, adjust pressure versus cold readings, and hit the on-ramp. Set cruise at 58-mph. At near 100-mile mark (or farther), use an otherwise deserted crossover for return trip.

Return to same pump and refill same way

It does NOT matter how you drive other days. This is a test. A baseline.

Warm weather. No high winds. Low traffic volume.

No lane changes. No idling. No braking or accelerating except as law requires.

60 is the wall. That or above is too fast to get aero resistance out of the picture. Those of us who’ve studied it will tell you the same. 58/9 is max. (Use rpm to re-set Cruise).

I bought my truck with highest MPG a priority. And had to FORMULATE A PLAN to get the most from it.

MPG is a planning tool. On those trips I saw 26-27 mpg at trips end, I learned

With truck empty (per above) or loaded 1,200-lbs above TARE and with/without changes to conditions of rain, cold temps, heavy traffic, my fuel burn didn’t fall below 24-mpg.

That 700-mile roundtrip was made several times monthly. And included crossing Houston twice per round trip.

The number for planning I found. Under those conditions of CLIMATE & TERRAIN. With that SPEC of truck. With DRIVER MOTIVATION.

Reduced speed is the rookie. There’s much more to high mpg where the base is lane-center, steady-state on cruise-control
. One learns to count the tenths. Use the overhead readout to SEE changes.

EVERYTHING is open to change. Feelz are for girls and kids. The way YOU drive.

And it always comes down to a plan. Time of departure. Every stop known in advance. The legs of the plan are what one drives. Separately.

How fast one gets anywhere is for the stoopid. Buy a police-spec Charger you want a high average MPH.

The relation between Average MPH and Average MPG is how I know the truck and driver are in synch. Driver and truck operating without problems. No defects.

But it takes a good while to get there. Doing it without any effort.

My truck can’t reliably hit 26-27/mpg? How about I show you I can repeatedly hit 28-30? Dead stock. At TARE. Just set the cruise.

This stuff ain’t rocket science. It’s application and discipline. What men do.

.

 

[slowmover]

“I can’t drive that slow”.

Hell, son, you don’t even know how fast you drive right now.

1). What was Average MPH?
As that’s how fast you “drove”

2). How to Figure Average MPH?
Engine Hours against Odometer

3). High Average is Versus Traffic Volume
Separation Distance is basis of safe operation. Cannot be violated.

There’s no such thing as left lane Interstate travel. If, as a stoopid, you think it acceptable, leave the adults to go turn on Romper Room. The left lane is for passing only. It has no right of way. Any mistakes made, fault is yours.

Minimize risk and maximize fuel savings go together.

Right of Way, is crucial. There’s no such thing as an accident if you’re a man. MPG dovetails right into that.

Simple rules:

1). Travel just below commercial traffic. Almost all of which is at 65 or slightly higher. Thus, 62-64 MPH.

2). Ever heard, “Can’t fix stupid”. Ever thought it applied to you? Have you ever been on a rural stretch of Interstate and been completely surrounded by other vehicles? Then, that’s you.

3). Traffic forms packs. Avoid them completely. Always. No exceptions. I spend my days cancelling cruise in the Peterbilt to do this. It’s easy as hell. Doesn’t change my day.

So, on those days you are lumbering along with a 5’er, as I pull out to pass you more than 350’ back — in a pass I’ve planned for miles, all by my lonesome; maybe waiting for that condition to arrive — I may be getting the same MPG as you despite that I’m carrying more in the box than your combined rig grosses.

The discipline in safety PAYS YOU BACK.

 

[slowmover]

Thanks for all the great replies! This would never happen on Cumminsforum haha. Bunch of intelligent guys here I can see.

So looks like the Smarty Touch is a good one to get, reason I ask about that one specifically is that it is easy to acquire here in Canada. I realize there is better out there, but unfortunately its hardly worth it to buy from across the border... politics and stupid policies only causes problems.

I figured swapping the g56 to the later version would probably be the best way to go. I imagine to the right buyer a good used early G56 is worth good money. Maybe its a swap that can happen when the right deals come up.

As far as my early 2004 truck. Yes it really does get that kind of fuel economy. Its a 4wd, quad cab. First thing to understand is that I live in Northern Canada. This means three things, slow roads, no traffic, and I hardly drive in the city. I drive 90km/hr (1600rpm) basically everywhere unless im on a big highway and there is traffic to keep up to, then ill set the cruise control to 110km/hr (2000rpm) at the most. I hand calculate all of my tanks and I watch my EGT and boot like a hawk while I drive. I dont use my service brakes much, usually roll to a stop or use my exhaust brake. Both diffs have Shell spirax S6 75w90 synthetic, engine has 5w40 T6, nv5600 has amsoil synchomesh oil, T case fresh ATF4 and all ujoints and front wheel bearings are greased with 5% moly #2 LPS wheel bearing grease. I run factory tire size pressured up to 70psi, I have a good alignment and I dont drive it like I stole it. I run a Smarty Jr on fuel economy mode, to get a timing bump. The truck runs super clean and barely has soot on the exhaust tip. What else can I say.

Im a gearhead and I do all of my own mechanics and fabrication. The parts that I put on my truck I got on sale and I borrowed a friends milling machine to bore out the turbine housing to fit that 100$US turbine. Part hobby, part having fun. Nobody else but me has ever touched my truck. Not all of these modifications had fuel economy in mind, but rather efficiency and reliability. At the end of the day I designed everything to work nicely together and everyone who has driven my truck is blown away by how great the engine feels.

Bottom line: this truck has always got damn good fuel economy. The best I can say is after all of these mods its just much easier and more consistent to get good fuel economy. When stock everything needed to be perfect, and stay there, to get the best economy. Now it just doesnt matter as much, the "sweet spot" is much broader. Thats the best way I can put it. I cant print you a graph and say "there, 4mpg gain across the board", but having a broader sweet spot isnt nothing either.

1). Steady State
2). Low traffic volume
3). Attends RPM, EGT & MAP
4). Careful maintenance + records

UNDER
60-mph
600F
6-psi

Closed shoulder, Highway rib tires
Perfect alignment
Zero Steer slop
Zero brake drag
No CAC leaks

Planned stops. Same direction of travel. Past any intersection stops (is ideal). Park so as to ease egress. NEVER park at pump.

Anticipation of traffic volume starts 75-miles from city center. Rush hours are only a part of it. Plan departure accordingly (once Average MPH known; otherwise use 52-mph).

Departure one hour before true dawn acceptable. But never EVER drive into the dark

Stops are every two hours or 100-miles. 12-15/minutes. Walk around some.

Major break at 4-hours. Combine fuel and lunch in same area.

400-miles adequate. To 600 is stoopid. No one escapes hypnosis. After 400 even pros weary.

Prescription sunglasses (Drivewear lenses). New seat cushion. Trousers (not pants) with loose seat. Posture such that NO reach to wheel top needed. Ever.

Perfectly clean glass both sides (use Rain-X cream cleaner).

This is all baseline. Normal.

The MPG tenths are inside

1). Number of; plus
2). Degree
3). Duration

of driver inputs.

(Fewest & Lowest are the winners).
.
This is fine motor skill. It disappears. Practice is discipline. Discipline is a plan. A plan is safety first.

The very best trip is the one you’ve already forgotten as you set the parking brake at key removal.

.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Way to take the fun out of riving!

 

[slowmover]

“Well, my kids and wife always want to stop”.

So? You ain’t husbanding your flock?

You build it in

Your plan accommodates women & children KNOWING that at no more than 1.5-hours after a meal, etc, they’ll need to use a restroom.

That’s why you’ve arranged the trip plan to show rest areas. C-stores BEST situated (as above ideal).

Better, you’ve called ahead and checked satellite pics to use

www.roadfood.com

to give them and yourself a treat. Or helped the wife to prepare a fine picnic lunch that involves a quick grill at a rest area.

“Get there”, is for baby daddy. Never will be a husband, much less a father.

Being gunshot, or a serious car wreck. Are the same. MPG follows from EXECUTING a plan. A fine safe trip is what no one posts to their Facebook page. Doesn’t win awards at work. No one holds the baby shower equivalent.

But never forget you have to get your family across a war zone. There are no accidents.
.

 

[slowmover]

“Well, I don’t care about a few extra dollars”

And you don’t much care, either, about stopping a charging bear, or a household intruder. That’s obvious.

For it’s not IF, but WHEN you will need to know how get every last quarter-mile out of that fuel tank.

On that day — you and the rest of the Clampetts aboard the family Conestoga — nothing else will matter more to you. The next twenty miles is more than you and yours can walk in a day. And — while you have made it past the 80% of those who started — still, there are those motoring past you, stopped with a dead truck on the shoulder.

Maybe they’ll throw you some bottled water. Crackers. Wave.

Think it through. Consider consequences.

(It’s always been a great crew at this site. Despite my “style”, it’s all been said with respect).

.

 

[slowmover]

Way to take the fun out of riving!

I quit thinking about HOW to do these things before you were born.

There’s plenty other areas in life others are the teachers. With an an aluminum aero travel trailer across all of North America and into Mexico, I’m third generation. I’m the non-wartime & professional pilot in a family full of them. The conversations (shop talk) have had their effect.

Driving for a living is the other. The ease of testing.

For a vacationer: your commuter miles count AGAINST you. Start from scratch. Kick the 16-year old out of the drivers seat.

Let the computer handle the drivetrain. Let it tell you what it needs. Be as sophisticated as it is required to be. Respect it. You’re only there to input steering & brakes.

.