Here I am

325hp engine tuning for fuel economy, 3rd injector event elimination, G56 question

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Oil pressure guage read normal, then 0

Swaping differentials

Totally agree slowmover!

A guy can spend lots of money for nothing. How the truck is driven is the biggest influence on MPG AND how quickly parts wear out. At the same time, if youve already mastered the driving part and seen how much you can get out of your machine- then I cant help to start wondering where the improvements can be found.

Ive worked with lots of guys who dont really get much done but can can wear out a pair of work gloves in 15 minutes, I can make mine last a week or two and get more done.

Ill admit, i love fabrication and modifying things. But I also have no problem admitting when im wrong about my assumptions once I see the results of the experiment. Ive pulled things off my truck and changed the way I do things many many times once new data presents itself.

Thanks for your comments.
 
Just use the "lie-o-meter" don't hand calculate.

That’s the handiest feedback tool you have past an UltraGauge.

Knowing the correction factor on my stock truck (11%) means I’m always aware of present MPG

The important function is watching for changes in tenths.

.
 
Totally agree slowmover!

A guy can spend lots of money for nothing. How the truck is driven is the biggest influence on MPG AND how quickly parts wear out. At the same time, if youve already mastered the driving part and seen how much you can get out of your machine- then I cant help to start wondering where the improvements can be found.

Ive worked with lots of guys who dont really get much done but can can wear out a pair of work gloves in 15 minutes, I can make mine last a week or two and get more done.

Ill admit, i love fabrication and modifying things. But I also have no problem admitting when im wrong about my assumptions once I see the results of the experiment. Ive pulled things off my truck and changed the way I do things many many times once new data presents itself.

Thanks for your comments.


The baseline of ideal truck mechanically and a trained driver sets the stage for:

I). Install fluid pre-heat and use year-round. Best fluids and minimum viscosity.

II). Steady-State Highway Aerodynamic Changes

Easiest (conceptually) is

1). Plywood (similar) tonneau cover extending half the distance to cab from the tailgate. This is about equalizing pressure on both sides of that tailgate.

2). Roof wing extending back from cab roof.

Next is what’s easiest to actually do:

3). Grille block in pieces to go with MOPAR (only) winter front. The winter front is forcing temps below 32F. You remove it at 32F. (More applies, see those threads).

A). I have a four piece grille block in a hard plastic that uses two bolts each piece to attach to grille.

B). All four pieces can be used at 32F and above. Right up to 90F with only the upper two in place while solo, non-Towing with AC on.

C). Any time coolant temps rise above normal thermostat opening, remove pieces.

4). Control of airflow under body.

A). I haven’t yet done it (others have); the use of conveyor belting front and sides to close underbody to airflow. Also in wheelwells to close gap to tires.

Examine a picture of an EPIQ package Peterbilt 579 to see what I mean.

5). Harder fixes apply:

A). You’ve all seen STEMCO Trailer Tails (find pic). Known as a box cavity. Have a cab-height bed topper? Believe me that skirt & tails on a big truck is awesome. But it’s DIY

6). The less difficult (ha!) is an Aerocap. An angled roof topper. One of the guys on CumminsForum in Pennsylvania made his some years back from sheet aluminum. A VERY straightforward job versus the genuine (needs a wind tunnel) versions some have tried.

When I get around to it — retired? Hell, I’ll reakly need the savings then —the conveyor belting plus cab to bed and topper seals is what my DIY skills can handle.

The addition of more big truck (see FLOW BELOW) is wheel discs covers. Convex.

7). The gap between truck & trailer (this assumes with conventional hitch the rigging is set correctly. 95% of you have to start there before aero). What can be done with trailer and truck together. Then, separately.

.
 
Last edited:
Do you sleep at night jeez dude give it a rest. Let's move on, you've beat this dog into oblivion.
Merry Christmas

To think you might have enjoyed high school had they admitted you (we once had standards. Not teenage daycare).

I’m writing in outline form.

Want to know how to have
FREE VACATION FUEL?
5,000-miles worth?

Naw, you wouldn’t care

And a fine Christmas to you in return.

.
 
A lot of arogance in such a statement. You have no idea who the other people are on this forum and yet you automatically disrespect them all with such a judgemental statement.

The average American is 37-years old. As a general statement, it works. I no longer thought about HOW to do it when Nixon was in his first term, as it had become automatic.

It ain’t bragging (arrogance) if you can do it. Guys running Model A Fords knew these things. Did your father and grandfather dislike you? Were you plunked in front of a TV set and forgotten?

As to the subject of economical ownership (of which economical operation is only one part), why doesn’t it have its own subforum?

I ran the costs of a typical 4WD/auto versus mine based on sales price at the same lot. In about 250k miles, as I haven’t done dumb things like lift kits and wrong size tires — plus have none of the steering & front end problems of a 4WD — add my lower sales price to far better fuel economy and $3+ diesel . . I could have bought and run A SECOND TRUCK the same miles for what a lot of guys spent on just one.

Bet you think that’s arrogant also.

Should I laugh or feel sorry for you?
Facts are facts. Feelings aren’t facts.

Can you do some things better than me?
I sure as hell hope so.

Should I believe someone who tells me his diesel pickup runs 12-sec qtr miles? As that’s the far-fetched claim. Who’d be stupid enough to turn an income-producing or offsetting vehicle into a smoking pile?

.
 
To answer your question, yes, you are arrogant and really don't have anything to add to a serious conversation. You don't respect anyone who has done something different than you and your experience is quite limited.
Since there's no point in reading your posts, you'll get ignored.
 
Last edited:
Does anybody have any hard data on highway tires vs mud/snow rated tires and the effect on fuel economy?

I have been running Goodyear duratracs, mostly because I live in northern Canada. While they arnt the best tire out there, they do have decent traction and are very affordable on sale.

Looks like all the new trucks are coming out with 18" wheels and 275 tires. While I dont necessarily need or want the extra tire width, less sidewall might be a good thing and the higher load rating is definately a great thing. I wonder if at the next tire change it might be worth going this route, probably with 245's or something.
 
Over the year I had my 2001 I ran some BFG TK/o's, then went with Goodyear Wrangler SR/A's when replacement time came around. Didn't notice much of any MPG difference, maybe 1 or so. What I have noticed is fuel quality differs some area to area. I filled at Conoco's when I visit my folks in Colorado, the 2001 would get anywhere from 1 to 2 mpg better than anything I could find here in Cheyenne. My folks report the same gains/losses. Wife's 2015 is the same. All trucks involved are using XDP Power Plus additive. I think at one point TC Diesel had posted something explaining how to find the best quality fuel, but not sure. My brain is pile of barely functioning mush at the moment since my job is running us really hard at the moment.
 
Back
Top