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Edge CTS2 Insight Monitor and FRP?

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2006 2500 4x4 cranked but no start

Air filter part # and change interval

I just bought an Edge CTS2 Monitor and installed it yesterday using the OBD2 on my 2006 2500 5.9

This morning I changed a gauge to FRP, which I believe should be Fuel Rail Pressure, but it is only reading 8 psi @ idle and 10 psi around 1,000 rpm, not sure how high it will go.

I drove it yesterday and every gauge seems to be what I would expect. I haven’t driven it today to check the FRP while driving.

Is it possible that it is giving me the lift pump pressure?
It is running too good to be only having 10 psi in the rail.

Thanks
Ken
 
Probably you missed the factor, x100.
Lift pump isn't monitored, no sensor for this.

Just got back from a test drive and right you are. I missed the “k” so I was off by x1,000

Once I got the engine and transmission up to operating temperature, I went to a long steep hill and got on it pretty good.
FRP = 23.4k
Boost = 27.8 psi.

I still had some pedal left, but not much.

What should FRP and Boost be on a stock 2006 5.9?

Thanks
Ken
 
Rail pressure will be commanded to a max of 23,207 but may go slightly above that as the ECM controls it.

Boost should peak in the 30-32 range and settle around 28-30.
 
Rail pressure will be commanded to a max of 23,207 but may go slightly above that as the ECM controls it.

Boost should peak in the 30-32 range and settle around 28-30.

Thank you,
That makes sense.
My focus was on the FRP and I didn’t look at the boost until I was doing close to 80 mph and getting close to the top of the hill, so the boost had plenty of time to settle.
Thank you.
 
And FRP can do what ever the ECM commands it to, its not a straight line up or so, it can be low at WOT but high at Cruise.
And vice versa. As long as it doesnt swing or jump around everything's fine.
 
And FRP can do what ever the ECM commands it to, its not a straight line up or so, it can be low at WOT but high at Cruise.
And vice versa. As long as it doesnt swing or jump around everything's fine.

That's no joke. I can't believe how sporadic the stock 04.5-07 RP map is, it's all over the place. It deals with emissions and trying to do it without an external EGR.
 
And FRP can do what ever the ECM commands it to, its not a straight line up or so, it can be low at WOT but high at Cruise.
And vice versa. As long as it doesnt swing or jump around everything's fine.

It seemed to be 13k-16k while cruising.

Haven’t used it for very many miles, but so far, I am impressed with the CTS2. Installation only took a few minutes and it monitors everything I wanted and more for just $325.

My Son has ordered a late Christmas present for me, a DPS 2 piece exhaust manifold, so when it arrives, I will also be adding an EGT. Luckily the truck has low miles and the bolts and studs on the stock manifold are not rusty, so, hopefully the swap will be uneventful.
 
Ken, You are starting to enter the very slippery slide of improvements (modifications) to the truck! Once it starts it is very hard to stop, just ask some of the old timers on this site.

Well, I was looking at buying a brand new truck, but for $40,000 less I got a low mile used truck, so I have some money to make some additional upgrades.

Been looking at the 1AAuto 4th gen power folding mirrors and also looking for some 4th gen power, heated seats.

If by chance I find that I am unable to do the speed limit while pulling the trailer over the Mountain passes, I will be tempted to add a little more power, but nothing crazy.
 
My Son has ordered a late Christmas present for me, a DPS 2 piece exhaust manifold, so when it arrives, I will also be adding an EGT. Luckily the truck has low miles and the bolts and studs on the stock manifold are not rusty, so, hopefully the swap will be uneventful.

Did mine 3 month ago, only problem with the bolts is that the OEM Manifolds shrink over time and pull heavy on the bolts, as bad that it destroys the threads. Start from both side with the bolts most outward.
Disassemble Manifold and Turbo as a unit, don't even think about leaving the Turbo in place and just switch Manifold, no way to losen the bolts that keep them together. And the install is an even closer thing.
Retorque the Bolts after on full heat/cool cycle, 35lbs/ft.
Some have problems install the manifold gaskets, actually its very easy, just do the upper bolt first and then let the gasket just drop/turn in place for the lower bolt.

Biggest problem for me was to get off the safety plates? on the 4 rearward manifold bolts, man these are a pain to get of the bolt heads.
 
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Did mine 3 month ago, only problem with the bolts is that the OEM Manifolds shrink over time and pull heavy on the bolts, as bad that it destroys the threads. Start from both side with the bolts most outward.
Disassemble Manifold and Turbo as a unit, don't even think about leaving the Turbo in place and just switch Manifold, no way to losen the bolts that keep them together. And the install is an even closer thing.
Retorque the Bolts after on full heat/cool cycle, 35lbs/ft.
Some have problems install the manifold gaskets, actually its very easy, just do the upper bolt first and then let the gasket just drop in place for the lower bolt.

Biggest problem for me was to get off the safety plates? on the 4 rearward manifold bolts, man these are a pain to get of the bolt heads.

Thanks for the tips.
I’m hoping it gets here soon.

Time to head back outside, my pod for the CTS2 arrived today and it’s time to install it.
Take care.
 
The Pressure sensor does NOT read actual Rail/Fuel Pressure, The sensor measure vibrations and translates to voltage, The ECM translate the Voltage to pressure. and adjust the cycle and voltage to FCA, FCA opens and closes at sent Voltage and cycle.Live Rail pressure is more stable than Gage readings.

Back to stealth mode.
 
The Pressure sensor does NOT read actual Rail/Fuel Pressure, The sensor measure vibrations and translates to voltage, The ECM translate the Voltage to pressure. and adjust the cycle and voltage to FCA, FCA opens and closes at sent Voltage and cycle.Live Rail pressure is more stable than Gage readings.

Back to stealth mode.
I'm not sure I understand what your trying to say. No electrical sensor measures actual pressure like a mechanical gauge does. But the electrical sensor does ACCURATELY measure the rail pressure. In the case of the rail pressure sensor because of the high pressure it is essentially a strain gauge. It has a metal disc inside that deforms from the pressure and the sensor has what for lack of better terms is a hall effect sensor that measures the movement of the disc. The ECM uses the sensor value to determine the actual rail pressure.
 
The idea of running a mechanical fuel or oil gauge from the engine is no longer appealing to me.

I have seen what happens if an oil line malfunctions or comes in contact with something hot and then starts spraying oil on the exhaust. The idea of diesel coming out at 20,000-30,000 psi is not appealing at all.
 
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