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Edge CTS2 Insight Monitor and FRP?

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2006 2500 4x4 cranked but no start

Air filter part # and change interval

Absolutely....

I get calls all the time my rail pressure is bouncing all over the place (Generally form someone directions that its a sign of future failure) and We need to Charge $$$$$$$$$ or BOOM.

Would you say that for most people, that the low pressure side would be more critical to watch and easier for the electrical sensor to keep up with on these engines?

It appears that an entire industry has been built on lift pump failure.
 
Well, I was looking at buying a brand new truck, but for $40,000 less I got a low mile used truck, so I have some money to make some additional upgrades.


Been looking at the 1AAuto 4th gen power folding mirrors and also looking for some 4th gen power, heated seats.


If by chance I find that I am unable to do the speed limit while pulling the trailer over the Mountain passes, I will be tempted to add a little more power, but nothing crazy.


Ken, do a search on this forum for air suspension seats in third gen trucks. I know of two different posters on this site that have installed air suspension ride seats in their trucks. One Ozymandias has a 2004.5 2500 SRW truck and the other is Mike Wilson who has a 2006 truck.


Here is one link: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/air-ride-seat-questions.258027/#post-2502757

Jim
 
It appears that an entire industry has been built on lift pump failure.

No that industry was already there from the Gen2 were a failing lift pump silently took out the expensive VE injection pump.
This is not the case with the Rail pump on your Gen3.
But the early Gen3 with the block mounted lift pump suffered the same problems till Ram switched (MY2005) over to the reliable in-tank Pump design.

And if an industry is there they do not disappears, they look for new markets and found it.
 
Would you say that for most people, that the low pressure side would be more critical to watch and easier for the electrical sensor to keep up with on these engines?

It appears that an entire industry has been built on lift pump failure.

ALL HPCR pumps have COV (Cascade Overflow Valve), This valve requires pressure/volume to open ( The Pressure varies according to needed internal Pressure) if this pressure is not met it stays closed, to both combustion fuel and lubrications cooling ( Partially open during cranking)The COV also is a diverter valve, delivering fuel to need operations of the pump, If combustion fuel increases it will divert fuel to the combustion circuits of the Pump. If the incoming volume is NOT sufficient the valve will limited the combustion fuel and the engine will loose power, its designed, and setting, are for protection of the pump.

Now mess with this valve and you have a time Bomb, that's why I believe TCD is the largest supplier/maker of COVs parts in N/A.
 
ALL HPCR pumps have COV (Cascade Overflow Valve), This valve requires pressure/volume to open ( The Pressure varies according to needed internal Pressure) if this pressure is not met it stays closed, to both combustion fuel and lubrications cooling ( Partially open during cranking)The COV also is a diverter valve, delivering fuel to need operations of the pump, If combustion fuel increases it will divert fuel to the combustion circuits of the Pump. If the incoming volume is NOT sufficient the valve will limited the combustion fuel and the engine will loose power, its designed, and setting, are for protection of the pump.

Now mess with this valve and you have a time Bomb, that's why I believe TCD is the largest supplier/maker of COVs parts in N/A.

Thank you for this information.
I really want to learn about the Cummins engine and all of the components. Up until a couple weeks ago, the only diesel truck I ever owned was a 1976 AM General deuce and a half. Pretty basic and I picked up a lot of power by rerouting some lines so it was no longer multi fuel and was diesel only.

I’m good with gas engines, been working on them since 1970 and understand carbs, efi, turbos, twinscrew and roots blowers, but I don’t know nearly enough about the Cummins to satisfy what I want to know. If something stops working, I need to be able to diagnose and get it back on the road.

Can you steer me in the direction of any good books that explain these engines and the components?

thanks again
Ken
 
The workshop manual, you can still find it only as a PDF with some thousand pages.
Just google it.
The engine itself is a very simple first generation Commonrail from Bosch, nothing special about it.
 
The workshop manual, you can still find it only as a PDF with some thousand pages.
Just google it.
The engine itself is a very simple first generation Commonrail from Bosch, nothing special about it.

Thank you, I’ll look for it.

Things like timing events for valve opening, closing and injection timing in relation to the crank are interesting to me and this in cylinder egr really has me wondering how and why it works.
I can understand how the exhaust valve closing before btdc will capture the exhaust to be mixed with the incoming fuel and the 3rd injector event and how these things could create a lot of soot. What I don’t understand is why changing to a cam that closes the exhaust atdc and eliminating the 3rd injection event makes no difference in nearly instantaneous sooting of the oil and the only remedy is to change the piston in order to have clean oil for 7,500 miles.

What is it about the piston in a 2006 engine that causes nearly instantaneous oil sooting? Do they run wider ring gaps?

Thanks again
Ken
 
Even if you change the pistons the oil won't be clean for 7,500 miles, but much longer than it is now.

The pistons are a non-reentrant design, which produces a less efficient burn that will put more soot on the cylinder walls. That soot gets scraped into the oil by the rings, and also can lead to excessive carbon buildup on the piston below the rings. This is what causes the oil to be black, and it's the residual oil that causes it to be black so quick.

Something happened with my photobucket account and I lost all the comparison photos I had.
 
Even if you change the pistons the oil won't be clean for 7,500 miles, but much longer than it is now.

The pistons are a non-reentrant design, which produces a less efficient burn that will put more soot on the cylinder walls. That soot gets scraped into the oil by the rings, and also can lead to excessive carbon buildup on the piston below the rings. This is what causes the oil to be black, and it's the residual oil that causes it to be black so quick.

Something happened with my photobucket account and I lost all the comparison photos I had.

What should the average pressure be on the lift pump side?
Thanks
Ken
 
Ken, I use the Glacier Diesel Big Line second fuel filter kit on my truck. I installed this in 2010 and I have never used a fuel pressure gage to monitor the secondary filter for plugging. In 100,000 miles sine the install I have never had a plugging or performance issue from my fuel filters.

This is my maintenance schedule which has served me will. The primary filter at the engine is changed every 15,000 miles per Dodge/Ram maintenance schedule. My secondary fuel filter is changed every 30,000 miles or ever other primary filter change. I do carry two fuel filters in my truck at all times but I have never needed them. They are rotated out on every fuel filter change as required.

My wife's car a VW, Jetta TDI 2.0L diesel has her fuel filter changed every 24,000 miles and the fuel pressure is not monitored on this vehicle either.

I am just saying that this may not be required on your truck.
 
I was normally 8-9 at idle, 6-8 cursing, and 4-6 pulling grades.

I won’t be adding a pressure gauge to my 18.

Thank you.
I will be installing my secondary fuel filter and for a little more $$ and very little additional effort I can add a liquid filled fuel pressure gauge.
Thanks again
Ken
 
Been driving the truck (on my 2nd tank of diesel) and keeping an eye on the CTS2 monitor. I also installed the Mopar Winter cover and after a few days, the outside temperatures went from the 20’s-30’s to the 40’s-50’s

At what temperature do you consider the engine and transmission temperatures to be at ideal operational temperature?

What temperature do you consider to be getting too high?

Thanks
Ken
 
The OEM thermostat is a 190° one. It opens at 187-193°, but isn’t full open until 207°. Cummins says the max allowable temp is 225°. I routinely saw 215°-217° pulling grades towing above 16K GCW with OE fan programming.

Cruising should be near 193° when empty or light towing. If you’re getting above 195-198° empty with the winter front on I’d remove it.

Not sure on the 48RE temps.
 
Ken; does the MOPAR winter front have 4 flaps that can be closed or open? If so, I leave these opened most of the winter not closing them down till the ambient temps are in the signal digit or -F range. My coolant temp gage in the truck usually runs under 200F, if it goes over I can hear the truck coolant fan kick in at a higher speed and the coolant temps will drop off.
I too remove my cover if the day time ambient temps are going to be in the high 40's or low 50's F for any extended period. For just one day the cover will stay on.
 
I do have the Mopar winter cover with the 4 flaps.
When the temps were in the 20’s-30’s I had 2 flaps open and the temps got into the upper 180’s much faster and for the most part stayed there and briefly hit 192. Then the outside temps went into upper 40’s low 50’s so I opened all 4 flaps and it is hitting about the same temps as it was with the colder temps and 2 flaps.

Also, my transmission temps have been upper 160’s to mid 170’s.

The cover cuts the time getting to these temps in half and all of the above temps have been running empty.

We have a week of rain and similar temps in the forecast, but living near Mount Rainier, it is not unusual to drop into the 20’s when we have blossoms on the fruit trees.

Thanks
ken
 
The instructions that came with the Mopar Winter Front do leave a lot to be desired, especially when it comes to the 3 lower hooks.
I have read that some people attach them to the intercooler, I’m a little concerned about that.
Any other ideas of where these hooks should attach?
 
transmission runs most of the time a little below of coolant temp because of the heat exchanger, you rarely see it above.
Below 220 is safe, above 240 it starts to get nasty. Never seen mine that high on the Cummins, had it on the Jeep.
 
transmission runs most of the time a little below of coolant temp because of the heat exchanger, you rarely see it above.
Below 220 is safe, above 240 it starts to get nasty. Never seen mine that high on the Cummins, had it on the Jeep.

I know that synthetic fluid will hold up well under higher temperatures, put can the transmission still be harmed even if the fluid is still doing good?
 
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