My truck rides like a truck! Anyone using "fast compression" rear shocks?

[KATOOM]

I haven't ran them in 15 years, so no clue on what they are now.

Dad and I ran them from mid 90's thru 2002ish.

I will say that their 5000's are terrible. And so are KYB Monomax...

 

[algonaman]

I ran SUlastic shackles for a while, they failed right after their warranty expired. I went back to factory shackles and won't endorse Sulastic as a soft ride solution. I use my truck, slide in camper, rear at 7200 lbs.

 

[slowmover]

I drive for a living. Injury and age are forcing me into a corner. Below is what I’ve learned from both industry sources, tire engineers, and my experience:

Tire pressure

1). Get the CAT SCALE phone app. Have truck sit overnight and check pressure BEFORE sunlight hits them. Ck each three times so that reading isn’t off.

2). With truck in “normal” condition (plus fuel topped off at truckstop), get on the scale for the STEER & DRIVE axle values.

3). Consult the tire manufacturer Load & Pressure Table. Write out the values for your tire size.

4). The vehicle manufacturers door sticker is THE RANGE allowed.

5). With tires adjusted to THE MINIMUM ALLOWED (adjusted from cold readings) drive 1.5-hrs steady-state (cruise control only at 65 or lower; want no braking or accelerating) to a rest area or similar where you can lightly glide to a stop. Ck pressure. (It takes this long in time/miles for tire pressure to equalize).

Under 7% pressure rise, leave them alone.

8-9% means it needs more air. 5-psi is max. 2-lbs May be enough.

This is a set of baseline numbers you should have acquired the same day you bought it.

Same test procedure for when towing. Loaded for camping with all passengers aboard.

Truck owners almost universally over-inflate. Thinking more is better. It’s isn’t. It screws up handling and braking. It reduces tire life as well.

Those towing do it in an attempt to modify handling. (New shocks plus larger front/rear antiroll bars are that answer).

My truck hit 16-years last summer. Has had two sets of tires in almost a quarter-million Miles. 50/50 town & country.

And, buy BEST TIRES. If it doesn’t say MICHELIN or BRIDGSTONE on the sidewall, it wasn’t an ideal choice.

A truck that spends 90% or more of its engine hours on pavement needs that type tire.

— Spec the right tire. Have it balanced on a Hunter 9700. Same spec for weights as Lexus or refuse it.

— Get REAL Load Values. A quality digital or calibrated mechanical tire pressure gauge.

Minimal pressure for equalized pressures on PROPER spec, QUALITY tires is the first step in ride analysis.

Basic quality shocks are BILSTEIN or KONI. The latter will have a better ride.

Replace anti-roll bar bushings with poly (and any other applicable to handling; beware of them on control arms, etc).

Now, another. step. Improve the vehicle weather seal. Drivers door & window especially. Just do it. A noisy vehicle is considered to have a lower quality ride in studies. Same for sound absorption. Look into Fat Mat and the rest the stereo guys use.

Next is the seat cushion. Original? Replace it. And atop it use a WonderGel (PURPLE) “Ultimate” seat cushion. Can’t wear them out. Add their lumbar cushion. Sit. UPRIGHT and closer to wheel. Still have Bend in elbow reaching wheel top with both hands.

Adjust seat belt it’s below hip bones (you plan to live).

No leaning over to sides. Seat cushion supporting legs BUT no pressure under knees at forward edge.

Only a dummy has wallet in rear pocket. Same for wearing blue jeans. You ain’t 19. Get trousers. Long rise, loose seat.

Shoes with low heel.

Mirrors adjusted such that head needn’t move. Bare edge of vehicle shown. Horizon is halfway point high/low.

Plan breaks. Two hours is a legal limit, so to speak. 10-12” of some walking. At four hours, an hour break and a bit of a meal. Top off fuel.

No unplanned stops. At all. Know every waypoint in advance.

Start early (up to an hour before dawn, not sun rise). DONT continue into the dark. Leave early and stop early.

Do NOT mix with car or truck traffic. Ease along all alone. MAKE that condition happen. Cancel cruise and get packs of idiots gone.

Surrounded? You can’t chew gum and walk a straight line you let that happen.

“Awareness” of your body and taking care of sloppy habits plus ignored maintenance & repairs, is where it’s at. Second is driving differently.

THIRD is spending big. Get the pressures tested. Get the entry level shocks mentioned. Upgrade your ignored seat. Getvproper clothing. Adjust everything for least effort as above.

Only the stupid talk about how fast they went (they don’t know). Average MPH is the thing. Learn how to use it AND THEN you can evaluate how your body is doing. Fatigue comes earliest to the stupid. Age has workarounds.

My pickup isn’t any easy rider. But I’m not 32 either. My family wants me back, so I’ve learned how to glide along BETTER than ever before. (You WOULD NOT believe the number of people who pass me 3-4 times in just half of a day)

N-V-H. Noise-Vibration-Harmonics.
No one of which is separate from the others.

It’s not the ride . . it’s the way vibration affects you.

The fatter you are, the worse it will be. Set a goal. Eliminate sugar and junk food, always carry water. Etc.

Make notes. Compare. Get a BETTER picture of the truck SEPARATE from you. This is what’s missing in almost every case of ride complaints. (Same with emotional problems re fuel mileage).

I get grief from other drivers about the fingerless gloves I use for driving. Goatskin Palm makes for better grip open-palmed. Padding in them cuts vibration almost altogether. On Amazon. Under anti-vibration gloves (construction and machinery operators).

Only vibration that still reaches me in the Peterbilt comes thru floor. So I added different shoe insoles, ha!

Baseline Numbers . Separation of problems. Understanding relationships. Low cost fixes. Planned use. Etc.

NOW I’m ready for custom 2.5 Kings.
Text me your CC number, okay?

Good luck.
.

 

[KATOOM]

Dang... I got about half way through that post and gave up.

 

[Bob4x4]

Sounds like an Airstream forum post

I drive for a living. Injury and age are forcing me into a corner. Below is what I’ve learned from both industry sources, tire engineers, and my experience:

Tire pressure

1). Get the CAT SCALE phone app. Have truck sit overnight and check pressure BEFORE sunlight hits them. Ck each three times so that reading isn’t off.

2). With truck in “normal” condition (plus fuel topped off at truckstop), get on the scale for the STEER & DRIVE axle values.

3). Consult the tire manufacturer Load & Pressure Table. Write out the values for your tire size.

4). The vehicle manufacturers door sticker is THE RANGE allowed.

5). With tires adjusted to THE MINIMUM ALLOWED (adjusted from cold readings) drive 1.5-hrs steady-state (cruise control only at 65 or lower; want no braking or accelerating) to a rest area or similar where you can lightly glide to a stop. Ck pressure. (It takes this long in time/miles for tire pressure to equalize).

Under 7% pressure rise, leave them alone.

8-9% means it needs more air. 5-psi is max. 2-lbs May be enough.

This is a set of baseline numbers you should have acquired the same day you bought it.

Same test procedure for when towing. Loaded for camping with all passengers aboard.

Truck owners almost universally over-inflate. Thinking more is better. It’s isn’t. It screws up handling and braking. It reduces tire life as well.

Those towing do it in an attempt to modify handling. (New shocks plus larger front/rear antiroll bars are that answer).

My truck hit 16-years last summer. Has had two sets of tires in almost a quarter-million Miles. 50/50 town & country.

And, buy BEST TIRES. If it doesn’t say MICHELIN or BRIDGSTONE on the sidewall, it wasn’t an ideal choice.

A truck that spends 90% or more of its engine hours on pavement needs that type tire.

— Spec the right tire. Have it balanced on a Hunter 9700. Same spec for weights as Lexus or refuse it.

— Get REAL Load Values. A quality digital or calibrated mechanical tire pressure gauge.

Minimal pressure for equalized pressures on PROPER spec, QUALITY tires is the first step in ride analysis.

Basic quality shocks are BILSTEIN or KONI. The latter will have a better ride.

Replace anti-roll bar bushings with poly (and any other applicable to handling; beware of them on control arms, etc).

Now, another. step. Improve the vehicle weather seal. Drivers door & window especially. Just do it. A noisy vehicle is considered to have a lower quality ride in studies. Same for sound absorption. Look into Fat Mat and the rest the stereo guys use.

Next is the seat cushion. Original? Replace it. And atop it use a WonderGel (PURPLE) “Ultimate” seat cushion. Can’t wear them out. Add their lumbar cushion. Sit. UPRIGHT and closer to wheel. Still have Bend in elbow reaching wheel top with both hands.

Adjust seat belt it’s below hip bones (you plan to live).

No leaning over to sides. Seat cushion supporting legs BUT no pressure under knees at forward edge.

Only a dummy has wallet in rear pocket. Same for wearing blue jeans. You ain’t 19. Get trousers. Long rise, loose seat.

Shoes with low heel.

Mirrors adjusted such that head needn’t move. Bare edge of vehicle shown. Horizon is halfway point high/low.

Plan breaks. Two hours is a legal limit, so to speak. 10-12” of some walking. At four hours, an hour break and a bit of a meal. Top off fuel.

No unplanned stops. At all. Know every waypoint in advance.

Start early (up to an hour before dawn, not sun rise). DONT continue into the dark. Leave early and stop early.

Do NOT mix with car or truck traffic. Ease along all alone. MAKE that condition happen. Cancel cruise and get packs of idiots gone.

Surrounded? You can’t chew gum and walk a straight line you let that happen.

“Awareness” of your body and taking care of sloppy habits plus ignored maintenance & repairs, is where it’s at. Second is driving differently.

THIRD is spending big. Get the pressures tested. Get the entry level shocks mentioned. Upgrade your ignored seat. Getvproper clothing. Adjust everything for least effort as above.

Only the stupid talk about how fast they went (they don’t know). Average MPH is the thing. Learn how to use it AND THEN you can evaluate how your body is doing. Fatigue comes earliest to the stupid. Age has workarounds.

My pickup isn’t any easy rider. But I’m not 32 either. My family wants me back, so I’ve learned how to glide along BETTER than ever before. (You WOULD NOT believe the number of people who pass me 3-4 times in just half of a day)

N-V-H. Noise-Vibration-Harmonics.
No one of which is separate from the others.

It’s not the ride . . it’s the way vibration affects you.

The fatter you are, the worse it will be. Set a goal. Eliminate sugar and junk food, always carry water. Etc.

Make notes. Compare. Get a BETTER picture of the truck SEPARATE from you. This is what’s missing in almost every case of ride complaints. (Same with emotional problems re fuel mileage).

I get grief from other drivers about the fingerless gloves I use for driving. Goatskin Palm makes for better grip open-palmed. Padding in them cuts vibration almost altogether. On Amazon. Under anti-vibration gloves (construction and machinery operators).

Only vibration that still reaches me in the Peterbilt comes thru floor. So I added different shoe insoles, ha!

Baseline Numbers . Separation of problems. Understanding relationships. Low cost fixes. Planned use. Etc.

NOW I’m ready for custom 2.5 Kings.
Text me your CC number, okay?

Good luck.
.

 

[Ozymandias]

Dang... I got about half way through that post and gave up.

I did it all, it's pretty good.

 

[Mike Wenrich]

I agree. My 77 year old body, fused neck vertebra, beginning arthritis, etc. feel every bump. Anything I can do to improve the ride needs to be done to make for an easier ride. As Katoom said, the Ca. roads are terrible and that's where I drive. Sorry to hear the spring pack does not offer much relief. I was perking up and ready to hit the buy button. My 14 3500 isn't bad with the camper on board but just miserable when it's off. The 04.5 2500 is tolerable.

 

[Ozymandias]

I agree. My 77 year old body, fused neck vertebra, beginning arthritis, etc. feel every bump. Anything I can do to improve the ride needs to be done to make for an easier ride. As Katoom said, the Ca. roads are terrible and that's where I drive. Sorry to hear the spring pack does not offer much relief. I was perking up and ready to hit the buy button. My 14 3500 isn't bad with the camper on board but just miserable when it's off. The 04.5 2500 is tolerable.

What pressure you run in the tires empty truck?

 

[Mike Wenrich]

65 front and 45 rear. Tires appear to wear evenly and of course when loaded heavy I air them up.

 

[slowmover]

Pressurize tires according to the book. Not over.

 

[Elsbury]

Just a thought in a different direction: The ride on these trucks has to accommodate high weights loaded and maintain a tolerable ride unloaded. I've owned every Gen HD Ram except the 5th or 4.5 or whatever is politically correct and ALL of them rode/ride like trucks because they ARE trucks. My wife's 1500 rides like a car and has 1800 lbs carrying capacity, but that's the only one I've ridden in/drove that has a carlike ride.

So, you can spend thousands of $$$ and still not be happy. Not trying to agitate or argue, but sometimes it IS what it IS.

I've spent a ton on a Kore kit that made my truck ride like a tank...even called Kore and complained about the ride. Response was yeah but you can hit speed bumps at 80 now lol. Had a talk with Don Thuren about fixin it and bought a set of his front springs and track bar which helped some. Don tried to talk me out of the airbags but wife loads the fifth wheel to the moon so I need em. Don suggested airbag cradles and they do make a difference especially on the upstroke of the springs. The kore kit came with the devers type pacs for the rear. Also has the 2.5" Fox shocks which I've talked to an offroad tuner here about and he said he believes Kore over valved the shocks on the compression side for our trucks so may let him have a shot at it but it just may be it is what it is.

 

[AEdelheit]

I've spent a ton on a Kore kit that made my truck ride like a tank...even called Kore and complained about the ride. Response was yeah but you can hit speed bumps at 80 now lol. Had a talk with Don Thuren about fixin it and bought a set of his front springs and track bar which helped some. Don tried to talk me out of the airbags but wife loads the fifth wheel to the moon so I need em. Don suggested airbag cradles and they do make a difference especially on the upstroke of the springs. The kore kit came with the devers type pacs for the rear. Also has the 2.5" Fox shocks which I've talked to an offroad tuner here about and he said he believes Kore over valved the shocks on the compression side for our trucks so may let him have a shot at it but it just may be it is what it is.

Oh man, comparing how well suspension and good shocks on these trucks can work based off Kore is like comparing how fast the new C8 Vette is based on a 76 Smog dog with the AC on, Kore was super Stiff and while there hard parts were really nice the Spring rates and shock tuning was terrible.

 

[Elsbury]

I agree...wasn't the best decision on my part. Dons springs helped but I'm convinced its the way Kore wanted the shocks valved that ruins it on these older trucks. In hindsight should have just left her stock. That kit was not cheap even 13 years ago. I'm retired now but when I can save up I want to let the tuner have at the shocks.

 

[Ozymandias]

Well just tune some existing shocks shouldn't be so expensive right?

 

[Elsbury]

About 600 to R&R and revalve.

 

[Ozymandias]

About 600 to R&R and revalve.

Thats not to bad, because after 60k Miles mine need a rebuild and i want to properly valve them also.
But with that it is awesome to drive, ask @RVTRKN how much fun it is snd how smooth, he did a ride with us a week ago.