Here I am

'12 Ram 2500, good buy or no?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2011 68rfe trans codes

Lowering truck

Status
Not open for further replies.
What part of AZ laws keep you in a 2500?

I think I am good if I use this exemption, I am under the 1000 hrs.:

"Passenger cars, ¾ ton or less pickup trucks and ¾ ton or less vans, used for commercial purposes 1,000 or more hours in a vehicle registration year, must be registered commercially"
 
I think I am good if I use this exemption, I am under the 1000 hrs.:

"Passenger cars, ¾ ton or less pickup trucks and ¾ ton or less vans, used for commercial purposes 1,000 or more hours in a vehicle registration year, must be registered commercially"

I see your rational for the 2500 now.
 
The text in bold made me laugh.....

In any event....shoot me a PM as I have a friend over on CF that has bought / ordered a Hellcat, Redeye, a Trackhawk, and an underground mine JEEP from that same dealer, and he lives in NM.

Maybe....just maybe....he can be of some assistance with negotiating a slightly better price.
 
Thanks gs, thats nuts...an underground Jeep:eek: I saw the link on their web site but didn't really pay much attention to it. Yup, they sell underground Rams too:D

I am just starting my research/pricing, trying to get a feel. The '12 is my pick so far, due in part to the 13 having 3.42, I do mostly local/off highway hauls so I want the lower gears. The '11 may or may not be an HO so I am staying away from them.

Thanks for the offer, I will keep it in mind, they seem like a standup outfit so far. The truck had 2 owners, both friends or relatives of the dealership. Waiting on some background on maintenance. 140k miles is nothing if it was taken care of but the rear axle is junk, for example, if not.
 
Last edited:
I think I am good if I use this exemption, I am under the 1000 hrs.:

"Passenger cars, ¾ ton or less pickup trucks and ¾ ton or less vans, used for commercial purposes 1,000 or more hours in a vehicle registration year, must be registered commercially"

Has the 1-ton registration guidelines changed recently? I was looking at this a year or so ago when I bought my 3/4 ton and I don't remember that fee structure for 1-tons; at least for personal use. OTOH, I wouldn't be surprised a government entity is charging fees (read: fleecing citizens) either...
 
Technically a 1 ton is supposed to pay weight fees and if they are registered over 12klb a motor carrier tax. Doesn't matter if it is a non commercial usage or not. Never heard of a non commercial person getting busted if they didn't.
 
I paid a weight fee, but I don't recall anything about a motor carrier tax. I certainly didn't claim the 30,100 lb. max tow rating. :)
 
Note the weight fee, that is for 16k and motor carrier fee.

Image (15).jpg
 
I'm surprised you are looking at newer trucks Nick, and fancy ones to boot!

To put the purchase price into perspective, I bought my 14 in early 17 with less than half the mileage for the same price. Mine is a Tradesman - no frills to break or go haywire down the road. I was more focused on the meat and potatoes so to speak and I didn't want a payment.

One thing to keep in mind is the weight rating of the tires. If those are 17" wheels the weight rating sucks. I don't know why, but they Are less than most 16" sizes. Going from a 285/75/16 to a 285/75/17 the weight rating decreases around 500 lbs per tire. From what I remember, most all sizes in 17" wheels max out at 3195 lbs per tire.
 
Well shoot, AZ gents. Leaned something new. Thanks for sharing. I’ve got my eye on a 1-ton and that’s something to consider now. (My claimed weight will be pretty low if I go that route)
 
I'm surprised you are looking at newer trucks Nick, and fancy ones to boot!

To put the purchase price into perspective, I bought my 14 in early 17 with less than half the mileage for the same price. Mine is a Tradesman - no frills to break or go haywire down the road. I was more focused on the meat and potatoes so to speak and I didn't want a payment.

One thing to keep in mind is the weight rating of the tires. If those are 17" wheels the weight rating sucks. I don't know why, but they Are less than most 16" sizes. Going from a 285/75/16 to a 285/75/17 the weight rating decreases around 500 lbs per tire. From what I remember, most all sizes in 17" wheels max out at 3195 lbs per tire.

Thanks for the info JR, I have a lot to learn about the 4th gen. Yes, big difference in cost for the high end model v/s Bighorn and down, I don't need fancy but do need/want a few extras, like oem brake controller and electric mirrors. The OP truck is a no go, no records on it and the dealer replaced the front crank seal. Why so soon? I am afraid it may have had fuel in the oil too many times. I do like the '12 for rear axle gears v/s '13 and up. I do like the '13 because of the old style frame, leaf springs, one radiator and intercooler where it belongs.

I am taking it pretty slow and doing a lot of looking. The '12-'13 models are still really expensive and some are getting high miles. I don't mind the miles if they were maintained well, but hard to find out. I have always wanted a 4th gen. since they arrived but knew I would have to wait 8-10 years. The time is now while I am still young enough to work on it and enjoy it.

I want to retire the '91 from heavy towing, but will keep the '01 and let my driver use the new one. I think she will get along fine with it.

https://www.fairwayautosales.net/ve...n--4x4-truck-fa160cea43ee4280bca3d762ce1f3cc6
 
Last edited:
I don't need fancy but do need/want a few extras, like oem brake controller and electric mirrors

On the brake controller it is not trim level specific. Just depends on how it was ordered/built. On the electric mirrors, are you referring to the fold up/down or just the adjustment? Power fold up/down I think you have to get the higher trim, standard adjustment is SOP across all models.

I do like the '12 for rear axle gears v/s '13 and up

I agree completely, but for me the emissions end was more important than the gear ratio. Gear ratios can be changed easier and cheaper than the emissions. 07.5-12 use heavy EGR to negate the target NOX. EGR induces oxygen depleted air back into the intake, this reduces power AND fuel mileage AND fouls the whole intake and turbo up with soot. 07.5-12 requires turbo/intake cleaning every 67k miles, 13+ do not. That speaks volumes. Driving it as intended only delays the inevitable... Keep in mind the whole purpose of SCR is to treat the NOX after the down pipe not in the engine like the 07.5-12. Both EGR and regens cut significantly in 13+..... I feel you'd be money ahead buying a 13+ and putting in whatever gears you prefer.
 
Last edited:
I partially agree with @JR ...I’d rather have a 2013 & newer DEF rig w/3.42’s and a much better emissions strategy than a 2010–2012 with the emissions strategy they utilize. Additionally....the dual radiator system is not as problematic as you might think it is. The upper radiator hose Y-pipe has had at least 3 revisions based on the part number I purchased for my 2014.
 
I agree completely, but for me the emissions end was more important than the gear ratio. Gear ratios can be changed easier and cheaper than the emissions. 07.5-12 use heavy EGR to negate the target NOX. EGR induces oxygen depleted air back into the intake, this reduces power AND fuel mileage AND fouls the whole intake and turbo up with soot. 07.5-12 requires turbo/intake cleaning every 67k miles, 13+ do not. That speaks volumes. Driving it as intended only delays the inevitable... Keep in mind the whole purpose of SCR is to treat the NOX after the down pipe not in the engine like the 07.5-12. Both EGR and regens cut significantly in 13+..... I feel you'd be money ahead buying a 13+ and putting in whatever gears you prefer.

I used to agree on the gearing, but not anymore. I fully agree on the emissions.. which also aligns with the MUCH better frame/suspension of the '14+ 2500.

Having had the 3.42's now for 15K miles I am very happy with them even at low speed semi-heavy towing (up to 24K). Direct and 3.42's is a much better highway towing gear than direct and 3.73's, so for me 3.73's are now the least desirable ratio offered.

Really the advantage to the 4.10's is in 1st gear, especially on a 68RFE truck. Above that the gear spacing is adequate for 3.42's.

So @NIsaacs I wouldn't hesitate to get 14+ and if you need the low speed improvement then get 4.10's installed, but I bet you'd be quite happy with 3.42's.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top