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Y-Pipe replacement question

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Ram hasn't superseded the y-pipe as mine failed and I bought one in April and it was the same part number as what I pulled off. I will say I smelled antifreeze on mine and saw the tell tell leaking fluid as I was filling my truck up for a trip that I was leaving on immediately. I called around and found one that was along my route and picked it up and antifreeze and took off. I was pulling my LQ trailer which weighs 20k I had about 450 miles to go for the day and decided to run till it started to get hot or a I got a low coolant warning as I was pressed for time. I made it the whole way without any problems and changed it next morning. I think we all assume the worst on this issue but it isn't as bad as we make it out.
 
Where my wye leaked a hose clamp would have fixed it. The actual wye did not crack, it was one of the plastic molded pieces that secure the hose to the wye. The plastic piece can be easily cut by scoring a line with a sharp utility knife and replaced with a traditional hose clamp.

I don't know, but would wager this is where many of the wye pieces leak.


IMG_20191002_052510560.jpg
 
Wish I had taken a picture of mine but it had a tiny hole/crack in the wye at the base of wye on the top side. You could pump the hose and see the antifreeze coming out.
 
Ram hasn't superseded the y-pipe as mine failed and I bought one in April and it was the same part number as what I pulled off. I will say I smelled antifreeze on mine and saw the tell tell leaking fluid as I was filling my truck up for a trip that I was leaving on immediately. I called around and found one that was along my route and picked it up and antifreeze and took off. I was pulling my LQ trailer which weighs 20k I had about 450 miles to go for the day and decided to run till it started to get hot or a I got a low coolant warning as I was pressed for time. I made it the whole way without any problems and changed it next morning. I think we all assume the worst on this issue but it isn't as bad as we make it out.
What year is your truck....2013 or 2014? What was the part number (last two letters) of your replacement hose assembly?
 
What year is your truck....2013 or 2014? What was the part number (last two letters) of your replacement hose assembly?
My Truck is a 13 and the part number is or was the one printed on the large hose going across the the top of the fan. I will get it later when the truck returns home.
 
2015's do not have them.

As far as the the bottom one not cracking....assuming they are a similar design, my guess is they haven't had as many (any?) issues because the coolant going through them is not as hot.
 
Hey for future reference:

I just changed out my upper Y-Pipe using the XDP billet replacement pipe. The process was easy but the plastic pipe did crack in a couple of places getting it removed. I did it with the truck cold and turkey-baster-ed out 1.5 quarts of coolant by removing the smaller of the three hoses and quickly rotating the Y so that portion was facing up. I spilled almost nothing and put that 1.5 quarts right back in at the end.

Another point worth mentioning: When you complete the job and go to put the 1.5 quarts of fluid back into the radiator overflow bottle near the firewall, you'll discover that only about half will probably fit back in. In order to get the coolant to "equalize" again, you'll need to warm up the engine until the thermostat opens. You probably have to drive around to get to that temperature. When you get home you'll find the reservoir low again. Perfect...

But! If you open it while it's warm the fluid will push back and want to overflow. So you have to let the engine cool before opening the reservoir to pour back in the rest of the coolant.. This pretty much means letting it sit for a few hours. BTW: I suspect this is why so many trucks are returned low on coolant after having the water pump changed. The Tech doesn't have time to fill the truck as far as he can, warm it up, cool it down and then top it off, so you get it back low...
 
I'm not 100% on this but don't the 13-15 trucks have a y-pipe for the lower pipes as well? Or is that just the top?

I thought only the 2013-2014's had the auxillary radiator? The 2013-2014's have 2 wye pipes, but the bottom one lasts generally 6-10 years because that is the "cool" side of the radiator(s)
 
FWIW, I'm on month 7 of messing around with a BlackmarketPerformance.com Y pipe leaking at the hoses or welds. So I guess I need something better then those.... With enough barb area that the clamps fit on the pipe, not partially off the pipe... So you can see that product endorsement.... Trying to at least return the one I have for the lower that I haven't installed. One bitten, twice shy... Like many of us, willing to pay for something that works, but works the first time. Not screw with it, still leaks, new hoses, still leaks, screw with it, still leaks.... So, enough...
 
Developed pool in Y at 65k miles like many of the pics, my truck is not my daily driver but I tow fairly heavy and drive to fast so lots of heat in the Nevada desert. Decided to go with Mishimoto hoses, https://www.mishimoto.com/dodge-6-7...E1kt4i4KXoGIPZaD03Vq_2CMHoduVkcwaAvbAEALw_wcB. Little more expensive but you replace both plastic wye's and lifetime warranty on hoses, figured I'd replace the stock hoses at 150k anyway. I like simple and both hoses get rid of 6 connections and 6 hose clamps.

Worked well to disconnect the hoses and drain, captured about half gallon of coolant.
Pulled grill (4 bolts) and still hard to get at lower clamp, finally used a small C clamp.
Poured coolant back in top hose then ran through a heat cycle. After heat cycle, it took about quarter gallon of fresh coolant in the overflow.
Since the bottom wye seldom fails, the bottom hose remains in my tool box until I flush the system at 150k, then I will replace that one too.

Towing out to the Black Rock Friday to ride motorcycles with my kids and practice social distancing, except when passing.
RAM Hose.jpg
 
Purchased a billet Y-pipe and cant exactly tell how to proceed. Do I remove the hoses from the factory plastic Y-pipe & use them for the billet one, or do I need to purchase different (longer) length hoses?
Thanks!
Craig
Use the factory hose, I just carefully crushed the plastic bs with a ball-peen and put it together with the billet pipe. I still recommend folks stay clear of the welded pipes. Waaaay to much headache here... Top pipe seems to be the first to fail, though I have one for the bottom too (PIA!)
 
Yes it is.

I’ve installed six of these Doorman y’s from Oreilly’s on our work trucks upper y pipes and haven’t had any problems. My personal truck is the only lower I’ve replaced with one.
Well, that is the best over the counter solution I've seen so far........ other's are aftermarket...
 
Sell sheet..
 

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Replaced leaking / cracked radiator upper Y pipe. Had been smelling coolant for awhile and finely seen the drip from the bottom with my inspection mirror. Bought OEM part # 52014722ad from the dealer $96.00 + Tax. Took about 1/2 hr to replace on a cold engine draining less than 1/2 gallon of coolant. 68K on the original part.
 
68k miles right on schedule.... I’m getting close to that mileage on my 2nd one. Just ordered the doorman metal one as soon as I saw the part number on this thread.
 
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