Botched wiring '03 SLT radio

[Teejaym2500]

Installing a Jensen CDR5620 DVD Receiver, I cut the connectors for the radio leaving the wires ready for solder to the new unit. I installed the Axxess Bluetooth adapter [AWSC1]. Everything works except for the key fob. I can use it to open the door locks when accessory power is on, but it doesn't work when the accessory power is off. Any suggestions on which wire I need to put B+ to, to make this work?

 

[Wiredawg]

I googled 2003 ram radio wiring and found this:
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Pink
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Brown/Red
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Dark Green
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Orange/Dark Blue
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Orange/White
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: Yellow
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Located Behind The Glove Box.
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green/Red
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Green/Dark Green
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Blue/Violet
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/Black
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Red
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Black
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan/Violet
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Tan/Black

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Teejaym2500]

I googled 2003 ram radio wiring and found this:
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Pink
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Brown/Red
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Dark Green
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Orange/Dark Blue
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Orange/White
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: Yellow
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Located Behind The Glove Box.
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green/Red
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Green/Dark Green
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Blue/Violet
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/Black
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Red
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Black
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan/Violet
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Tan/Black

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Ron

Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Pink
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Brown/Red
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Dark Green
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Orange/Dark Blue
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Orange/White
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: Yellow
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Located Behind The Glove Box.
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green/Red
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Green/Dark Green
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Blue/Violet
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/Black
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Red
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Black
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan/Violet
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Tan/Black

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Teejaym2500]

Thanks, Ron.
I have most of that, in addition to the attached files. The fuses check out, so I'm guessing it's some wire connection

 

[Ozymandias]

All you need is here.

https://axxessinterfaces.com/products?Year=2003&Make=Dodge&Model=Ram 2500

Download it.

I don't know why one has to butcher the OEM harness when a adqpter costs only a buck or two...

 

[Wiredawg]

After the fact doesn't do a lot of good to mention this, but it would have been much better to go to Walmart or other store and get a radio connector versus cutting OEM plug.

Good luck with your project.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Teejaym2500]

All you need is here.

https://axxessinterfaces.com/products?Year=2003&Make=Dodge&Model=Ram 2500

Download it.

I don't know why one has to butcher the OEM harness when a adqpter costs only a buck or two...

Thanks, Ozymandias. I agree with you. I already have the vehicle specific Axxess info. The radio came with a plug and pre-stipped wires with a recommendation to solder the connections. Which I did. The new radio, tweeters, bass blockers and Axxess bluetooth adapter are all working just fine. Dashlights and rke work with switched +, but not without. Somewhere, I missed a connection. The fuses are good.

 

[Teejaym2500]

After the fact doesn't do a lot of good to mention this, but it would have been much better to go to Walmart or other store and get a radio connector versus cutting OEM plug.

Good luck with your project.

Cheers, Ron

Thanks, Ron. Please see my reply to ozymandias. I do appreciate your guy's help.

 

[Ozymandias]

I'm not sure if the RAP feature is a simple wire connection, it could be a feature that the OEM Radio itself provides to the Cars electronics. RAP isn't permanently active, it's only a couple minutes and then it shuts off. You don't want something permanently active that isn't designed for it, it would drain your batterys fast.

If you check the features of the interfaces (AXTO-CH2 and CHTO-2) they state always "retains RAP".

I use the CHTO-2 together with the ASWC-1 in my truck as a p-n-p solution and everything works as desired.

 

[Teejaym2500]

I'm not sure if the RAP feature is a simple wire connection, it could be a feature that the OEM Radio itself provides to the Cars electronics. RAP isn't permanently active, it's only a couple minutes and then it shuts off. You don't want something permanently active that isn't designed for it, it would drain your batterys fast.

If you check the features of the interfaces (AXTO-CH2 and CHTO-2) they state always "retains RAP".

I use the CHTO-2 together with the ASWC-1 in my truck as a p-n-p solution and everything works as desired.

Thanks for the update. I don't know what RAP is. The RKE I mentioned is Remote Keyless Entry.This works off a module on the back of the instrument panel. Somewhere I'm missing the connection from the stock amplifier Audio C1 or from the radio. Tomorrow I'm applying 12V to any 'extra' wire and see what I can see.

 

[Ozymandias]

RAP = Retains Accessory Power (for a certain time after Ignition Off)
Maybe @sag2 can provide more help for this problem.

 

[Ozymandias]

Be careful with back feeding 12V into unknown wires, you might try the electronics that way.

 

[Ozymandias]

If you say stock amplifier - then you would have the Infinity System, that needs the CHTO-2 to work properly.

 

[Teejaym2500]

Thanks. I have a feeling RAP isn't the problem/ The receiver module for the RKE is now not receiving when the key is out of the ignition. I'm beginning to think that using only the key for entry isn't so bad.

 

[Ozymandias]

Thanks. I have a feeling RAP isn't the problem/ The receiver module for the RKE is now not receiving when the key is out of the ignition. I'm beginning to think that using only the key for entry isn't so bad.

Let's see what others say, sure they'll chime into this thread.

 

[Teejaym2500]

Let's see what others say, sure they'll chime into this thread.

Just FYI, in the Navy we had a last ditch analysis tool. It was called the Smoke Test: apply power and the first component to start smoking was probably the initial problem.

 

[sag2]

OK, first is what did we do to break it? I'm not sure if you cut all the wires off the factory radio plug(s) so you could connect them to the DVD, or you didn't cut them and spliced into them. Can you connect all the wires back the way they were and does it work correctly? Are fuses 21 and 22 good?
DO you have power locks with RKE only, or RKE and security system

Now I remember why I hate aftermarket stuff!

 

[Teejaym2500]

-

View attachment 120174

OK, first is what did we do to break it? I'm not sure if you cut all the wires off the factory radio plug(s) so you could connect them to the DVD, or you didn't cut them and spliced into them. Can you connect all the wires back the way they were and does it work correctly? Are fuses 21 and 22 good?
DO you have power locks with RKE only, or RKE and security system

Now I remember why I hate aftermarket stuff!

The Jensen unit came with a radio connector where the wires had to be soldered to the amplifier C2 adapter. The radio works fine, as do the steering wheel audio controls via the Axxess. The amp C2 replacement connector doesn't continue the VT wires at pins 1 and 9. No provision was made in any of the instructions for the wires in amp connector 2. Unused wires in the radio cavity are shown in the pic.

 

[AH64ID]

Can you add the factory connector back in and use an adapter?

Generally the recommendation to solder the wires is between the adapter and the new radio harness, and not to cut the OEM harness.

 

[Teejaym2500]

Can you add the factory connector back in and use an adapter?

Generally the recommendation to solder the wires is between the adapter and the new radio harness, and not to cut the OEM harness.

Thanks, AH64ID. The stock amplifier is gone. connector that came with the radio was meant to be connected to the wire harness that replaced the C2 amplifier connector. The pic shows the wires not used by this configuration. The problem is there somewhere. My guess is that a B+ circuit is incomplete.