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Load Trail Gooseneck Dump Time.

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2 questions: - for bumper pull trailers
Thoughts on a deck-over dump where the sides fold down. Wouldn't the sides normally add structural rigidity to help prevent twisting while dumping?

For a standard low (between the wheels) dump - How hard would it be to build another bed and swap every now and then? The "other" bed would just be an equipment hauling bed that could be tilted so you don't need ramps. The bed would be longer past the axles to help reduce the load angle. (for cars).
 
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2 questions: - for bumper pull trailers
Thoughts on a deck-over dump where the sides fold down. Wouldn't the sides normally add structural rigidity to help prevent twisting while dumping?

For a standard low (between the wheels) dump - How hard would it be to build another bed and swap every now and then? The "other" bed would just be an equipment hauling bed that could be tilted so you don't need ramps. The bed would be longer past the axles to help reduce the load angle. (for cars).

PJ makes a flat bed for their roll off dumps, might be others.

https://www.fayettetrailersales.com...ce&d=A&filter=roll-off dumps&fr=xAllInventory

https://www.fayettetrailersales.com...ce&d=A&filter=roll-off dumps&fr=xAllInventory
 
A roll off is a terrific option in my opinion. They’re becoming popular around here with the owners renting the bodies as dumpsters for carpentry and remodeling projects. Multiple bodies with one chassis is definitely the most maintenance friendly option I can think of.
 
That PJ Roll Off ain't a bugger bear to load with a load in the box?

I can't speak to the PJ or any other trailer but if the leverage points are correct it shouldn't be a problem. The last outfit I worked for had tandem axle Mack trucks they bought as a bare chassis and had a local outfit install a roll off system on them. They had multiple bodies, various length flat beds and dump boxes. They regularly loaded equipment - manlifts, small wheel loaders, track hoes, etc. Up to the rated GVW of the truck with no problem. These trucks were bought new in the late 90's and I still see them rolling from jobsite to jobsite every now and again. They are really versatile trucks.
 
That PJ Roll Off ain't a bugger bear to load with a load in the box?

The dump frame has a 17.5k winch that yards the can up the ramp, the back of the can has steel rollers so it don't drag. Lock the can to the dump frame and set it down like a regular dump bed.

After you click on the second link I posted look at all the pictures. It will show the front steel rollers gliding up the track on the dump frame with winch mounted at the front.
 
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No one has thoughts on my first question -

"Thoughts on a deck-over dump where the sides fold down. Wouldn't the sides normally add structural rigidity to help prevent twisting while dumping?" Are they just as good as the low rider? I know center of gravity would be higher...but...anything else
 
I’m not fond of a deck over period. The center of gravity is quite a bit higher and the track narrower. That leads to a less stable platform when towing or dumping. We all know your trailer should be level when you dump but that’s not always possible. Even a little side lean makes me nervous and that’s multiplied with the deck over. I will admit they are better at dumping bulky material. More room under the doors. I’m sure the corner hinges are strong but how much abuse they’ll take is anyone’s guess. I had to reinforce the rear corners on my dump because 12 foot wood puts a lot of pressure on the sides both loading and dumping. The rear corners spread so far after a while that the doors wouldn’t latch. And I’m the only guy loading and dumping. I do my best to treat it carefully.
 
Chinggered my right hand door latch yesterday dumping stumps. I got too close to a pile of pine needles, the doors don't fold up against the bed sides like the Lamar. I thought about changing the latch system but the bed side design will still keep them open to far. One smack with my dead blow will fix it but that is not the point....I make a truck driver but I will never be one, jeeze :D
 
Just finished deleting my door latch pins and added my own system. Two sets of heavy duty hook & latch, outdoor privy systems:D..."systems" that even sounds high tech:)

I just didn't like the wide door OEM latches. What with buildings, trees, fences and etc. in the way. First picture is oem, full open, second is the redo. Also added the two front steps, mud flaps and two bolt on stake pockets for tie downs.
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Mine don’t stick out anywhere near that far. Somewhere between your first and second photo. They’re held open with something akin to a wire coat hanger. Maybe it’s got something to do with you getting the tall sides.
 
Some of this may be bad info as my local salesman said PJ was making some changes. Among other things he said the inverted V reinforcement that’s welded along the side of the body was going away as it was a spot where debris gathered and bred rust. The new design has one or more beads rolled into the steel sides to stiffen them. Whether or not the stake pocket design changes would be nothing more than a guess on my part.

You had good info, they did make the change. Here is a link to the new sidewall, no uprights. Also if you scroll on all the pictures (to the specs) it will show the new latch too. It does appear to be different on the tall side as you suggested. The latch on the model shown (24") is a little different than what the specs show. Mine (36") is like the spec sheet. The spec sheet also talks about the new side wall.

https://www.fayettetrailersales.com/default.asp?page=xInventoryDetail&id=5711534&p=2&s=Price&d=A&filter=bumperpull dumps&fr=xAllInventory
 
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