Raptor pump no power out of relay

[Doc Holiday]

Also I’m at the firehouse today so non of the suggestions can be implemented until tomorrow.

 

[DavidC]

Then that should make the Tan your trigger wire ( The one that energizes the coil of the relay). When a slight crank happens that Tan wire should have 12vdc on it for 30 seconds. When running it is energized all the time. If the Tan gets connected to the positive side of the battery the relay should energize and send power from the red to the yellow.

 

[DavidC]

If it gets around to condemning the ECM I would first disconnect the batteries. Unplug the ECM, I believe it is an allen screw,check for corrosion or any abnormality. Apply dielectric grease to the pins as best you can. Reassemble and see what happens. The Ecm is close and in back of the power steering pump. Inspect the wiring in the vicinity including the ECM ground to the block.

 

[Ozymandias]

Usually the add on relay on the Gen3 is triggered from the OEM connector that is located to the rear of the fuel filter canister where the factory pump sat.
To use that wire to switch the relay is also important to get rid of the P0628 low voltage code.

A relay has always 2 circuits, the switch and the load. Apparently the power to the load side is ok on yours, but the switch side not.
On the relay itself only one of the 4 wires is a ground wire, the other 3 have positive power.

It was mentioned before, if you take the relay out of the circuit, and connect 30 and 87 direct, means hardwire. That means the wire runs straight from the battery to the pump without anything inbetween- does the pump then run?

 

[Doc Holiday]

Usually the add on relay on the Gen3 is triggered from the OEM connector that is located to the rear of the fuel filter canister where the factory pump sat.
To use that wire to switch the relay is also important to get rid of the P0628 low voltage code.

A relay has always 2 circuits, the switch and the load. Apparently the power to the load side is ok on yours, but the switch side not.
On the relay itself only one of the 4 wires is a ground wire, the other 3 have positive power.

It was mentioned before, if you take the relay out of the circuit, and connect 30 and 87 direct, means hardwire. That means the wire runs straight from the battery to the pump without anything inbetween- does the pump then run?

My pump is wired to the original lift pump harness.


the pump does not run after being jumped, from 87 to 30 or direct from the battery

 

[Ozymandias]

Did you check the ground wire for the pump for continuity?

If you hard wired it - it must run, pop the fuse or just burn up.
One of this 3 will happen that way, IF the circuit is intact.

 

[Doc Holiday]

Did you check the ground wire for the pump for continuity?

If you hard wired it - it must run, pop the fuse or just burn up.
One of this 3 will happen that way, IF the circuit is intact.

none of those happen.

 

[Doc Holiday]

I haven’t checked anything today. I’m at the firehouse and it’s broke in my driveway, 30 minutes away.


Nothing changed on the pump wiring since I owned it, and presumably since it was installed in 2012

 

[Ozymandias]

You worked at the steering gear, the main ground wire for the frame is right there, outside of the chassis.
Check all the ground wires.

 

[DavidC]

Just to make the relay configuration clear. If you look at the sketched drawing above, there is a common, normally closed (shelf state) and a Normally open (coil energized). Usually labeled C,NC,NO. In your case the red is on common, yellow on normally open. Nothing is going to happen until you can get 12vdc across the coil, black and tan on a good relay.

 

[Doc Holiday]

Just to make the relay configuration clear. If you look at the sketched drawing above, there is a common, normally closed (shelf state) and a Normally open (coil energized). Usually labeled C,NC,NO. In your case the red is on common, yellow on normally open. Nothing is going to happen until you can get 12vdc across the coil, black and tan on a good relay.

I have already swapped two brand new relays in with no change.

 

[DavidC]

I have already swapped two brand new relays in with no change.

I know, troubleshoot with a meter. If no 12vdc across the Tan and Black the problem is elsewhere. Either no ground or no power.

 

[Doc Holiday]

Ok so apparently there is power at the red and the yellow wires to the pump

 

[Doc Holiday]

DavidC I want to do the meter test you said to do but I don’t know what you mean

 

[DavidC]

If you have power at the yellow the relay energized which is a good thing. If the pump did not run make sure the yellow has a good connection to the pump and the pump has a good ground. How is the relay coil wired now, to the battery or the ECM, the Tan wire. Which meter test ?

 

[Doc Holiday]

If you have power at the yellow the relay energized which is a good thing. If the pump did not run make sure the yellow has a good connection to the pump and the pump has a good ground. How is the relay coil wired now, to the battery or the ECM, the Tan wire. Which meter test ?

It’s wired exactly as it has been, I touched nothing.

 

[Doc Holiday]

If you have power at the yellow the relay energized which is a good thing. If the pump did not run make sure the yellow has a good connection to the pump and the pump has a good ground. How is the relay coil wired now, to the battery or the ECM, the Tan wire. Which meter test ?

“troubleshoot with a meter. If no 12vdc across the Tan and Black the problem is elsewhere. Either no ground or no power.”

 

[DavidC]

“troubleshoot with a meter. If no 12vdc across the Tan and Black the problem is elsewhere. Either no ground or no power.”

Meter set on appropriate DC range above 12vdc, Red probe to positive Tan in your case. Black probe to Black wire. If no reading check Tan to a known good ground, Battery etc. If no reading there is a problem with the Tan power source. For the ECM to energize (power) the relay coil bump the starter. You will have about 30 seconds to check power to the coil (Tan and Black). I am assuming since you now have power on the yellow that the Tan is connected to the Battery at this point ?.

 

[Doc Holiday]

Meter set on appropriate DC range above 12vdc, Red probe to positive Tan in your case. Black probe to Black wire. If no reading check Tan to a known good ground, Battery etc. If no reading there is a problem with the Tan power source. For the ECM to energize (power) the relay coil bump the starter. You will have about 30 seconds to check power to the coil (Tan and Black). I am assuming since you now have power on the yellow that the Tan is connected to the Battery at this point ?.

No the tan is still plugged in to the old lift pump harness. I didn’t change anything.

 

[DavidC]

Sequence with everything hooked up normally (no jumpers)
Bump Starter
Tan energizes from ECM energizing relay (You now have 12vdc across the Tan and Black wires for 30 seconds)
Red 12vdc connects to Yellow through relay contacts (for 30 Seconds)
Pump should run for 30 seconds
This is assuming the relay and pump are grounded properly.