Found a good source for the HALLA A/C compressor

[Motorhead]

Working on a friends 2006 doing the full A/C overhaul. I called the source that I bought the HALLA compressors from for my 2007 and he doesn't sell them anymore. I bought a spare and put it on the shelf several years ago.
There is A LOT of websites that advertise they have the GENUINE Halla compressor only to tell you in the fine print that it is the "Halla STYLE" and 99% are cheap CHINA copies. https://www.ebay.com/itm/151726872169
This seller, "Parts Container" is the ebay store front name for a large parts seller that has warehouses through out the states. I paid $214.92 with NO core and free shipping for the NEW Halla compressor. I bought a new compressor, new condenser, O-Ring kit, receiver drier and the orifice tube for under $500 delivered.
HALLA was bought out by HANON in 2015 so the compressor box says HANON on the outside. The compressor is IDENTICAL and good quality.
ONE major thing to remember is that the compressor has a full oil charge, in other words, most of the oil for the whole A/C system. You drain both the OLD compressor and the NEW compressor into separate basins. You measure how much oil came out of the OLD compressor and put that amount back in to the new compressor. I always add an extra half ounce. The rest of the refrigerant oil is split up among the other components such as the Evaporator, receiver drier and the condenser. This makes sure you have oil mixed into the refrigerant through out the system. There is supposed to be the total amount of refrigerant oil needed on the sticker on our truck's radiator support.
Is there any TSB's for the 2006 for a soft start on the compressor or for the fan clutch? I have read of other guys having problems or concerns.
I almost always try to turn my A/C on, for the first time of the day, with the engine idling.

 

[Tuesdak]

If they don't have a part number you can retrofit a 4S Deslugger into the system. IMO it would be plug and play on the OEM connectors. This kicks the compressor on/off about 4 times and eliminates the "THUNK/BANG!" on GM stuff I used it on. GM later went to a stretchy belt, a better solution. I have broke several AC belts on GM rides out here.

https://www.4s.com/en/marketing/the-deslugger

I am surprised with the HD belt drive on the Cummins that there are not more shattered compressors vs. the wimpy GM small belt. I have had the "THUMP!" turning on the AC on my 2003 Cummins, but, with 150K life on the OEM compressor before the clutch failed I wouldn't bother.

I have posted up on the fan clutch age and kicked out RPM being something to look at. (Needs to be around 600 Fan RPM minimum kicked out best I can tell.) Worn out slow to respond fan clutches work well enough for the engine while the AC system suffers high condenser temps/pressures and fails. IMO if the fan clutch is over 5 years old it's not a waste of money to replace it: rather a good idea.

 

[Motorhead]

I like the De-slugger idea. I used to have the slugging on my 2007, 5.9 until I changed refrigerants from 134A to Duracool NON HFC.
I also thought of modifying the low side compressor line. I would weld in a small liquid accumulator on to the line just before the compressor. The liquid could settle in to the accumulator instead of the compressor.

 

[mwilson]

Ordering the "Deslugger" right now off Amazon.....didn't know it even existed.

36142

Thank you Tuesdak!!!

#ad

 

[Motorhead]

I don't know if the 36142 De-slugger will directly plug into your wiring loom. The 3142 is for Dodge caravans. They have a DENSO compressor. I have a query into 4 seasons right now to see if they have a model that will fit the 3rd gen trucks.

 

[mwilson]

I zoomed in on the plug shown with a compressor / clutch unit...it looks the same....

Will report when I do the deed..

 

[mwilson]

I’ll splice it in if necessary....but I really think that plug is the same..

The truck is due for a service, will combine that with the “Deslugger” install. Much easier to reach from topside with the oil filter off..

 

[Regcabguy]

Working on a friends 2006 doing the full A/C overhaul. I called the source that I bought the HALLA compressors from for my 2007 and he doesn't sell them anymore. I bought a spare and put it on the shelf several years ago.
There is A LOT of websites that advertise they have the GENUINE Halla compressor only to tell you in the fine print that it is the "Halla STYLE" and 99% are cheap CHINA copies. https://www.ebay.com/itm/151726872169
This seller, "Parts Container" is the ebay store front name for a large parts seller that has warehouses through out the states. I paid $214.92 with NO core and free shipping for the NEW Halla compressor. I bought a new compressor, new condenser, O-Ring kit, receiver drier and the orifice tube for under $500 delivered.
HALLA was bought out by HANON in 2015 so the compressor box says HANON on the outside. The compressor is IDENTICAL and good quality.
ONE major thing to remember is that the compressor has a full oil charge, in other words, most of the oil for the whole A/C system. You drain both the OLD compressor and the NEW compressor into separate basins. You measure how much oil came out of the OLD compressor and put that amount back in to the new compressor. I always add an extra half ounce. The rest of the refrigerant oil is split up among the other components such as the Evaporator, receiver drier and the condenser. This makes sure you have oil mixed into the refrigerant through out the system. There is supposed to be the total amount of refrigerant oil needed on the sticker on our truck's radiator support.
Is there any TSB's for the 2006 for a soft start on the compressor or for the fan clutch? I have read of other guys having problems or concerns.
I almost always try to turn my A/C on, for the first time of the day, with the engine idling.

You're the man Chris! You always source out quality aftermarket parts.

 

[BigPapa]

I almost always try to turn my A/C on, for the first time of the day, with the engine idling.

I’ve never understood fellows worrying about this. I understand what you’re TRYING to do, but what do you think happens when you’re cruising at 2200rpm and your compressor cycles on and off?

 

[mwilson]

It only does it when you first start the truck...and not every time but when it does the slam bang is enough to make you cringe.

Worth $45.00 to me to make it stop. I also think it causes premature A/C clutch failure, which I’ve already had happen..

 

[BigPapa]

Hmmmm. Must be a 3rd Gen thing. I’ve had to replace the clutch on my’95 12-valve before.

 

[Motorhead]

I’ve never understood fellows worrying about this. I understand what you’re TRYING to do, but what do you think happens when you’re cruising at 2200rpm and your compressor cycles on and off?

When the compressor is in use, the compressor never sits long enough to to have the oil and liquid refrigerant settle inside as a liquid.
I have thought of modifying the SUCTION line to the compressor by putting a small aluminum liquid accumulator just ahead of compressor intake.
I have seen some Auto AC lines that have a small accumulator welded on.

 

[mwilson]

None of my 2nd Gens did it, asked Seth if his 4th Gen does it and he says no. He does use the A/C a lot and would have noticed if that was the case..

 

[mwilson]

My 2016 GMC gasser Parts Runner pick up at work has a low mounted compressor, and I noticed the other day there was an accumulator looking thingie made right to the low pressure line just before the compressor connection...

 

[Motorhead]

My 2016 GMC gasser Parts Runner pick up at work has a low mounted compressor, and I noticed the other day there was an accumulator looking thingie made right to the low pressure line just before the compressor connection...

Mwilson, Can you take a picture of your GM and the accumulator? I'd be curious about the size of it.

 

[mwilson]

Yes, I will tomorrow..

 

[Motorhead]

Thanks. I have a friend that does beautiful TIG welding and I would like to modify my suction line. I figure I could go to a junk yard and find a donor hose that has an accumulator on it.
Don't want too big of an accumulator so oil gets trapped in the bottom of it.

 

[mwilson]

I wound up staying home today but will be at work tomorrow. I will get a picture for you.

 

[Tuesdak]

I’ve never understood fellows worrying about this. I understand what you’re TRYING to do, but what do you think happens when you’re cruising at 2200rpm and your compressor cycles on and off?

When things cool down at night the radiator keeps the condenser hot and the inside of the vehicle can be real hot keeping the evaporator hot. Cool air flowing up from the bottom of the engine makes the compressor the coldest part of the AC system. Thus liquid refrigerant can condense in the compressor and esp. in the cylinders and on the low side. Thus the first turn on of the AC compressor had some liquid slugging to deal with. The random "THUMP!" or "BANG!" you hear when turning on the AC the first time is liquid slugging. The forces from a 600 RPM idle to "FULL STOP" the compressor does is a lot less than "FULL STOP!" from 2000 RPM. The brochure shows some GM compressors in the "exploded view", split clean in half, from this slugging problem and likely were turned on at higher RPM.

Compressors have been redesigned or are just better from the start in dealing with this start up slugging. FWIW the reason compressors are "low mount" on the engine is for oil return. R12 vapor was better at moving oil back to the compressor than 134a vapor is with the PAG oil. So to help oil return the preference is for low mount compressors where oil runs downhill. (Aside of the OEM puts them where they fit.) FWIW I have NOT ever had the "Thump" from my 2018.

GM compressors don't last long enough for me to say if long term clutch wear from the Deslugger is a problem. However the busted drive strap on my 2003 was likely from the shock loads as it would thump even with the Enviro-Safe Industrial I was using. 2003 compressor that lasted 15 years and ~150K who is complaining? (I asked about this 4S Deslugger years ago. Guess I am leading the way with it.) ES Industrial is wicked cold over the standard HFC free substitutes.

 

[mwilson]

Hard to get a good shot of it but I tried.

Here is the image from my GM Repair Link...