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Need injectors and new transmission. What would you do?

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strange electrical problem w/ elec fuel pump-

Wiring harness for 2003 Ram 2500

I have 2007 2500 5.9L that I have had for 2 years. 155K. It is totally stock. It has been great up until now. Got a P0148 code on a long trip over the Sierras towing a 23' RV. The day after we got home the transmission gave up. Shop says I'm due for injectors and a new transmission! All at once. Lucky me. I'm in San Diego and the truck just made it to the dealer where it sits. They say they have no transmission in stock and do not have a quote yet. For either job. I'll get that tomorrow. I'm guessing around $10 in repairs. I don't have the tools or smarts to do it myself.

Should I wait for the dealer to find a transmission or can anyone recommend a good shop in San Diego?

Is the dealer factory replacement the exact same transmission with the same results at 150k? Or has it been improved?

I know nothing of all the aftermarket 48re options available. Is there a "best choice" on the market readily available?

Thanks in advance for all the advice.
 
due for injectors
sounds like a sales move, not a diagnosis. Do not get new injectors until tests are done and the testing shows some failure. What performance issue makes them think that you need new injectors? PO148 code could be a fuel delivery problem, fuel filter, lift pump, CP3 pump, fuel pressure controller on the pump, or rail relief. Diagnose prior to changing parts, especially injectors. You could change injectors ans still have the code. Transmissions are the weak link on our trucks. I had mine rebuilt at 90K with heavy duty bands and other parts stock. I have about 150 K on the rebuild and I tow a lot. I credit the longer transmission life to a strong aftermarket lockup converter. I used the Banks converter because i have a lot of other Banks equipment. There are lots of other options out there for converters and maybe others could chime in with their experience. I would take the truck to a diesel shop based on the initial dealer recommendations to you.
 
Good advice on diagnosing the fuel fault code. Properly diagnose it then go from there. Same on the transmission, until it gets disassembled and determined exactly what needs to be replaced there's no need to just replace it with a reman unit
 
Good advice on diagnosing the fuel fault code. Properly diagnose it then go from there. Same on the transmission, until it gets disassembled and determined exactly what needs to be replaced there's no need to just replace it with a reman unit
They took it apart and the clutches are disintegrating is what they said. The fluid was full of metal when i checked it. It was clear a couple weeks prior. I'm certain the transmission is toast. I'll definitely get a second opinion on the injectors. It just sucks paying to have it towed to each place.
 
sounds like a sales move, not a diagnosis. Do not get new injectors until tests are done and the testing shows some failure. What performance issue makes them think that you need new injectors? PO148 code could be a fuel delivery problem, fuel filter, lift pump, CP3 pump, fuel pressure controller on the pump, or rail relief. Diagnose prior to changing parts, especially injectors. You could change injectors ans still have the code. Transmissions are the weak link on our trucks. I had mine rebuilt at 90K with heavy duty bands and other parts stock. I have about 150 K on the rebuild and I tow a lot. I credit the longer transmission life to a strong aftermarket lockup converter. I used the Banks converter because i have a lot of other Banks equipment. There are lots of other options out there for converters and maybe others could chime in with their experience. I would take the truck to a diesel shop based on the initial dealer recommendations to you.
I agree on the injectors needing a second opinion. It drove fine after throwing the code and my mileage was doing good. I would hope the dealer could properly diagnose that though. What was the cost of your transmission upgrade?
 
They took it apart and the clutches are disintegrating is what they said.

Same problem mine had at 90K. The metal is throughout the transmission including the converter. You can have the transmission work completed at the dealer and then get into finding the problem with the fuel delivery code. I would use a rebuilt or new transmission (if one exists) and a new converter even if it is stock. If they want to rebuild your transmission ensure you are satisfied with how they will get the metal out of it. Like I mentioned, i used heavy duty bands and clutches in my rebuild and got good service even with lots of towing.
 
To the Transmissions, there are many good options out there from the shelf from trustworthy Manufacturers.
Or you go to a rebuilder like Inglewood, have your transmission shipped there and rebuild and beefed up.

I myself will probably choose a BD Diesel Transmission one day in the future.
 
Update; The dealer has a factory rebuild swap for $4000 plus $2000 in labor. It has a 3 year unlimited mile warranty.
A local shop called Certified Transmission in Santee will rebuild my transmission for $4000 and it will be stronger than the factory rebuild. It has a 2 year, 24K mile warranty. Certified Transmission has good reviews and for a better transmission I'm going with them. Not to mention saving $2K! I'm still working on the injector issue.
 
Actually the price from the dealer for the transmission isn't that bad, it's the labor that is. I looked and the 48RE's must be really hard to come by, the core charge for the two PN's they list for 2006 are $1,000 and $3,000.
 
A local shop called Certified Transmission in Santee will rebuild my transmission for $4000 and it will be stronger than the factory rebuild. It has a 2 year, 24K mile warranty.

If they are doing the R&R for that price that isn't a bad deal. If that the trans build there is less than $2k in parts for a much better than stock build and some really good parts.

You will want to make sure you get the updated OD housing so cracks don't bite you next. Make sure that build includes a billet cover lower stall TC and don't buy into the triple disk hype unless you tow hard and heavy all the time.
 
If they are doing the R&R for that price that isn't a bad deal. If that the trans build there is less than $2k in parts for a much better than stock build and some really good parts.

You will want to make sure you get the updated OD housing so cracks don't bite you next. Make sure that build includes a billet cover lower stall TC and don't buy into the triple disk hype unless you tow hard and heavy all the time.

That is rebuilding what I have with better than stock parts but I have not seen the build list yet. Sadly I don't know what the OD housing and billet cover stall TC is but I will ask about that. Thank you.
 
Actually the price from the dealer for the transmission isn't that bad, it's the labor that is. I looked and the 48RE's must be really hard to come by, the core charge for the two PN's they list for 2006 are $1,000 and $3,000.

The dealer said they could only find 3 factory rebuilds in the whole country.
 
48RE's are long out of production that was a short run anyway, hard to find pieces for some of it and expensive when you do. The front drum is unique to the 48RE as are the all steel palnetarties and pump and I think input shaft though 47RE parts will interchange to an extent. If it has had a lot of metal run thru it you might need a rear drum also cuz there is bushing in it where it ride son the OD piston support. I would opt for the more expensive TCS OD piston support laso as it has been a better product than the standard one.

Make sure they show you what is bad and what they replace with for that price. Like I said, with R&R it isn't a bad price with upgraded parts but if they start hemming and hawing when you start talking about convertes, disks, and stall speeds, be wary. Many times seen these units come apart with whatever was handy thrown in there to make it work and wondering why it failed. There are ugarded actuator pistons, drums, clutches, clutch counts, etc. If you tow and are adding power you want some of these done for sure, others are nice to have and some that frequently used you do NOT want.

If you can get a list of what they expect to install in the trans. Ask about flash stall and full brake stall on the TC and number of disks. Post back and get osme opinions if oyu would like to.
 
Oh, the P0148 is not an injector code, it is a rail pressure sensor checksum error. This is more frequently cause by a bad battery or battery connections, a worn FCA, or lift pump, or a worn rail PRV. Don't jump to injector suntil the rest of the stuff is tracked down.
 
Oh, the P0148 is not an injector code, it is a rail pressure sensor checksum error. This is more frequently cause by a bad battery or battery connections, a worn FCA, or lift pump, or a worn rail PRV. Don't jump to injector suntil the rest of the stuff is tracked down.

My batteries are getting pretty old. I'll be getting a second opinion as soon as I find a local shop I can trust.
 
To the Transmissions, there are many good options out there from the shelf from trustworthy Manufacturers.
Or you go to a rebuilder like Inglewood, have your transmission shipped there and rebuild and beefed up.

I myself will probably choose a BD Diesel Transmission one day in the future.
I called Inglewood and got the same pricing as Certified Transmissions. They have a $4K or a $6K option. I'm not going to build the engine up so a rebuild with "better" than stock parts is all I need.
 
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