Electrical question

[BoeingDiesel]

I have a 220-V 30 amp outlet in my shop and I want to add a 120-V Max 20 amp extra outlet. Would it be okay to run a line and neutral out of the 220-V outlet for the 120-V outlet?
I have a 200 AMP panel that's got plenty of open space but would rather not run 80-90' for a dedicated 120V connection unless necessary.
These outlets would not be used at the same time.
thanks

 

[DavidC]

No it is not a good idea. Your 220v is 30 amp for one and it is also a 2 pole breaker. You should use a 20 amp single pole breaker and # 12 wire for 20 amps. Or if you need to wire you could run 50 amp ( # 6 wire ) with a neutral and ground from your 200 amp panel and install a panel in the location of your choice that would be closer in case you add more things. 50 amp is reference as it could be higher if you desire.

 

[BoeingDiesel]

Thanks David, I was hoping you'd see this after reading your many posts re; electrical. I just looked at the setup again and it would be more like about 106' run...28' up 50' lateral and 28' down...all for a battery charger.
Thanks again David
gregg

 

[DavidC]

Another idea. If you had one of those 1 or 2 CB panels or a fuse disconnect you could tap your 30 amp with # 10 wire Hot,Neutral,ground to this added panel and wire to this CB or fuse then # 12 to your recept.. This way your 20 amp is protected and the existing 30 is also good.

 

[BoeingDiesel]

Fantastic! That's what I will do... thank you!

 

[Timd32]

Another idea. If you had one of those 1 or 2 CB panels or a fuse disconnect you could tap your 30 amp with # 10 wire Hot,Neutral,ground to this added panel and wire to this CB or fuse then # 12 to your recept.. This way your 20 amp is protected and the existing 30 is also good.

Something like this might work out fine, then throw a 20A in here as needed as your output.

They are pretty inexpensive. This would need a breaker.

Or maybe.... just read the specs real quick.

 

[BoeingDiesel]

Thanks Timd32, I've got some options to consider for future additions.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Yep a simple Disconnect box with a 20A breaker and a box nest to it with a 20A 120v receptacle = good to go. May not be to "CODE" but it sure will work. Just don't use both outlets at the same time.

 

[DavidC]

Yep a simple Disconnect box with a 20A breaker and a box nest to it with a 20A 120v receptacle = good to go. May not be to "CODE" but it sure will work. Just don't use both outlets at the same time.

Different inspectors can have different interpretations but there is a tap rule in the NEC that will allow tapping into a circuit and has a percentage of amperage for the wire size with the distance the tap will be. In this case it is a 30 amp circuit and he will run # 10 which is what should be the existing to the line side of a 20 amp breaker then finish off with # 12 for the recept.. Any inspector would be going rounds with me if he thought it was wrong

 

[BoeingDiesel]

You guys just hit on something that I didn't take the time to consider. The electrician that wired the hanger pulled permits and was signed off by the city. At the time, he asked if the one 220-V outlet was enough and I had no other plans for needing 110-V outlets midway down the building, so let it be sufficient to say, I now feel like D.A. You know the old saying...prior planning prevents... There is a lot of irreplaceable machinery in this building and forbid the thought if something happened and was an electrical related fire resulting from not being properly installed and inspected. I'm sure the insurance company would have some interest in that situation. I'll get the electrician back out here and have it done and permitted.
Thanks one and all, I do appreciate it!

 

[DavidC]

If you have any feeling there could be upcoming projects you should probably pay now and have a sub panel installed. Way cheaper in the long run when you want to add other things. I did that in my garage and it sure made things easier than running 100-150 feet each time.

 

[Ozymandias]

I was wondering about that question and started reading, and see, the electrical system over here is really much different from ours.

• Mixed 230 V/415 V three-phase (common in northern and central Europe) or 230 V single-phase based household wiring

In northern and central Europe, residential electrical supply is commonly 400 V three-phase electric power, which gives 230 V between any single phase and neutral; house wiring may be a mix of three-phase and single-phase circuits. High-power appliances such as kitchen stoves, water heaters and maybe household power heavy tools like log splitters may be supplied from the 400 V three-phase power supply.

We use standard wise one phase from the three phase for 230V.

 

[BoeingDiesel]

If you have any feeling there could be upcoming projects you should probably pay now and have a sub panel installed. Way cheaper in the long run when you want to add other things. I did that in my garage and it sure made things easier than running 100-150 feet each time.

That's exactly what I'm going to do and that way I can run multiple battery tenders.