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Excavation Work

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Does anybody either know about doing excavation work or a good forum on excavation work. I am starting on developing my small lot of land and while I do not see myself doing the work, I'd like to understand enough to be able to converse and evaluate bids and the work.

Thanks!
 
How much excavation are we talking about? A lot of tree work? We bought 5 acres of raw land 1982 and did almost everything ourselves. Lets see, its 2020 and we are almost done....If I did it again first thing I would buy is a Kubota B21 with a backhoe. I have one now and that is simply an awesome rig for homestead use. We fenced off a couple acres (hand split cedar posts from trees we felled, soaked bottoms in used motor oil mixed with diesel, ya probably shouldnt do that now), dug the post holes through hardpan with a SS bar and posthole digger, but with an augur on your B21 you will go a lot quicker. Put a cow on it for a year and all your blackberries gone, all the small alder gone, eat the cow, then clear the small stuff with a small rental excavator if you cant afford to own a tractor. Then bring in big Cat for a weekend for stumps. We had some huge maple and old growth stumps so eventually we hired a guy with a D-9 for a couple days. Ripper on the back, pile it up and burn it. I guess you can't start your stump piles burning with tires anymore, but get a big fan and you can get them burned. If you cant burn I guess you gotta get them hauled out but them seems way expensive. If you are way out in the country you can blow up the big stumps with dynamite. Thats above our pay grade though. My buddy resurrected a 1952 Allis-Chalmers track loader and we got a lot of work out of that thing too. He got it for free. One steering clutch was frozen but you got used to that. Once in a while one of the old hydraulic hoses would blow up. The only thing I found that I really couldn't do very well was the grading. I would hire that out to someone with gray hair who has done it a lot.

Check out Orange Tractor Talks forum. I bet there is a lot of info on excavation stuff, massive information about Kubota tractors. Those things never break. We also have a 1978 B1700. Just replaced the original glow plugs. The small ones are good for lots of things but not really for yanking stumps or heavy work. Great for lifting heavy stuff in or out of your truck bed, moving gravel or bark, mowing pasture etc.

If you can find the time, do as much yourself as you can. It will save you a ton of money. Easy to justify buying tools and equipment if it's gonna save you money. Hiring people to do things is fraught with difficulties if you are particular, so save that for the things that you really can't do yourself.
 
"We bought 5 acres of raw land 1982 and did almost everything ourselves. Let's see, it's 2020 and we are almost done..."

I resemble that! :)
 
20200125_140836.jpg


This is with the backhoe off and box blade on. Best tool I own.
 
Wiredawg,

I can't see; what manufacturer is that?

My lot is stated at 4.1 acres; I'd say 2.5 acres is heavily wooded. The open area is next to the road, the wooded area is in back. The land slopes from back to front (from the wooded rear to the open front next to the road).

I expect to retire in a year, or semi-retire. I expect I am going to continue to work four to five months a year with my current employer. So, I will have time to do some work on my own.

Here is the point to state what always seems to be the case with me:

(1) I don't know anything about evaluating machinery or taking care of machinery.

(2) I don't know anything about running machinery.

(3) I think God left me with a little more than solid bone between my ears, so believe I can learn. To be completely honest, my wife will likely question that statement, but I am going to stick to that statement regardless.

Seems to me step one is to get a culvert and driveway in at least far enough to pull off the road. Next step is brush hog; tried to walk the open area and the brush is up to my chest and over my head in many places. I think at that point I can start to measure an make a plan.
 
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Box blades are one of the handiest tools you can own! I see your rear cutting edge is hinged. Way better than solid mount for keeping dirt from building up underneath.
 
It's a 2004 Massey Fergussen 4wd 1428V 28hp diesel. Bought it new free 60mo financing in 2004. No special training, read all the safety material, do things slowly, and you'll be very happy. You can likely buy one with attachments cheaper than paying to have some of your work contracted. :D
 
Maybe just rent something like this (link below) for a week to push in your initial driveway. Just go slow and you can figure it out. If you need trees cut and not confident on your own hire a feller and you can do the rest. Get a bigger chainsaw than you think, minimum 18" bar. I still have my original Stihl, never rebuilt except carb. Its cut an easy 100 or 150 cords of firewood. Get yer wife the small electric Stihl, I think its a 14" bar. Those play bigger than than their size.

Nothing more fun than running equipment. Depending on your ground make you start with big stuff for first layer of driveway, like 2-4" quarry rock, then maybe inch and a half minus crushed rock over that. We drove on the quarry rock for a season then did the rest second summer. Don't skimp on your base or you will be constantly repairing later especially if wet ground.. You want a good dump truck driver who can lay it down kind of even to begin with.
Man if you're going to retire for sure you want to buy a tractor but maybe rent a few different ones before you buy one.

https://image-proxy.teamsi.com/?url...ouse/6133208201.jpg&w=300&h=250&fmt=jpeg&q=90
 
SAFETY NOTE. TAKING DOWN TREES IS VERY DANGEROUS, BUT CAN BE DONE SAFELY WITH THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT AND PROPER PROCEDURES. PEOPLE AND PETS SHOULD NOT BE ALLOWED IN THE WORKZONE, 50FT OUTSIDE THE ESTIMATED HEIGHT OF THE TREE. WATCH VIDEOS, BE FAMILIAR WITH ALL SAFETY PROCEDURES WITH TRACTOR, CHAINSAW, AND TAKING DOWN TREES. START SMALL TO GAIN EXPERIENCE.

I take down whole trees with chainsaw and tractor. Look at tree, judge which way its leaning, make sure clear path towards where you want it to fall and where you will position the tractor to push it over. NEED to have personal protective equipment PPE (hard hat, safety goggles, heavy gloves, and safety boots. Always have a clear escape route should something go wrong.

Judge if the tree is leaning and or where most of the heavy branches are. Position tractor on high side of tree, or opposite of where you want it to fall, making sure roll over protection system is deployed (roll bar is up), place front end loader about 6 feet up barely touching the tree, set brake, leave tractor running. With all PPE on, make a bedding cut (level cut) about 6 inches, or whatever allows you to operate the chainsaw on its side. Kneeling, slowly cut trunk of tree about halfway through, keeping chainsaw level. Work chainsaw slowly, as forcing it dulls the chain. With chainsaw still under throttle, remove it from tree. Now, place chainsaw about a foot up from initial cut or where the cut will result in a 45 degree cut from the edge of the tree to the center. Note, always assess tree as cutting to ensure it isn't shifting or binding the saw... if it does, stop. I never have had a tree bind the saw using these steps, but necessary safety precaution. Now cut the angle cut slowly with the saw until you reach your center cut. Withdraw still under throttle, remove from tree, shut it down and move it to a safe zone away from the tractor and the tree. ENSURE clear escape path to outside the workzone or to the safety zone. Now with tractor in, 4wd, low range, begin pushing tree over, ensuring top is moving away from you and towards the fall zone. it may take a while but should fall where crease in cut was made. Once tree is down, you can begin cutting it up, and hauling it off.

Professional tree removers typically climb trees, with tree leg spikes, ladders or cherry picker trucks, tying off branches with rope if near structures, cut them and lower them. They do the same taking down the trunk, from the top down, also tying off with rope to lower to the ground until on the ground.

I'm a Disabled American Veteran and brought my tractor to save my back. I cleared about 30 50 to 80 ft trees from my property, dug up the trunks with my backhoe, spread and leveled 175 dumptruck loads of topsoil, maintaining natural grade of the land with box blade, let laborers use my post hole digger attachment to install 5ft tall goat wire around all 2 1/3 acres, dug water lines and drainage ditches. I have fork lift, backhoe, boxblade, post hole digger, roto tiller, finish mower, shredder.

Anyhoo, you need to do a LOT of homework, research, and self analysis if you want to take this on. I was still working when I took all this on, worked after work 5PM to 9PM workdays, and about 12 hour a day Sat and after Church on Sundays. Guy delivering my topsoil said he would do all the work for $200/hr, but I said no, that's what I bought the tractor for. It has 1,100 hours on it. With forklift attachment, I can accept deliveries at my home. I also use the tractor to maintain half mile gravel road.

Hope this helps with your decision. Feel free to ask questions on the open forum or private conversation.

Cheers, Ron
 
PS: If you buy a tractor, have dealer (I did it myself) add a gallon of coolant each rear tire, then fill tire with water 3/4 full. Adds weight, stability, and traction to your tractor. There is a special tool for adding liquids to tires. The coolant keeps the water from rusting your rims. Put a quart each of Green Slime (or equivelent) in each front tire. Fill all tires with air per tractor manufacturers recommendations.

I bought my tractor all standard, not hydrostatic. Less to go wrong, but hydrostatic is also good.
 
PS: If you buy a tractor, have dealer (I did it myself) add a gallon of coolant each rear tire, then fill tire with water 3/4 full. Adds weight, stability, and traction to your tractor. There is a special tool for adding liquids to tires. The coolant keeps the water from rusting your rims. Put a quart each of Green Slime (or equivelent) in each front tire. Fill all tires with air per tractor manufacturers recommendations.

I bought my tractor all standard, not hydrostatic. Less to go wrong, but hydrostatic is also good.

If you desire to liquid fill your rear tires for ballast sake, don’t stop at a few gallons. You want to fill the tire basically as full as you can get with it laying on its side. You can’t do this with the tire upright as you won’t get enough in to cover the rim. It’s this exposure to air with this large concentration of liquid that’ll cause your rims to rust. With the rim totally submerged, this rust issue is almost a non-issue.

I prefer to use windshield washer fluid. It’s cheap and won’t freeze. You can also get other fluids such as beet juice. It’s considerably heavier and won’t rust your rims. But you have to go to a dealer to get it done. Please don’t consider calcium chloride. It will eat your rims. It’s just a matter of time. A tube is worthless if you use your tractor as a tractor. Once the tube is punctured even a little bit, fluid will find its way to the rim and be held there only to start the corrosion process.

You don’t want to fill the tire 100%. You need that air bubble to allow the tire to expand and contract as you drive and load changes. If the tire was completely full, you’ll destroy the tire in no time.

You can fill your own tires pretty easily as long as they are reasonable in size and you can get them back up to be reinstalled on the machine. All you need is a bucket, a small sump pump or similar, and a valve stem adapter available on Amazon or even Tractor Supply. They are about $10.

The process is simple. Remove the valve core and let all the air out. Hook your pump up to the adapter and place you pump in the bucket. Pour your fluid of choice in the bucket and start pumping. Just remember to stop every so often and let the air out of the tire. There’s a “burp valve” on the side of the adapter. The pump will slow down and let you know as the sound changes with the pressure increase in the tire. Just be prepared for a little “blow back.” LOL

There are plenty of tire size fill charts available online with a quick search if you want to know how much fluid to procure. ;)
 
If you desire to liquid fill your rear tires for ballast sake, don’t stop at a few gallons. You want to fill the tire basically as full as you can get with it laying on its side. You can’t do this with the tire upright as you won’t get enough in to cover the rim. It’s this exposure to air with this large concentration of liquid that’ll cause your rims to rust. With the rim totally submerged, this rust issue is almost a non-issue.

I prefer to use windshield washer fluid. It’s cheap and won’t freeze. You can also get other fluids such as beet juice. It’s considerably heavier and won’t rust your rims. But you have to go to a dealer to get it done. Please don’t consider calcium chloride. It will eat your rims. It’s just a matter of time. A tube is worthless if you use your tractor as a tractor. Once the tube is punctured even a little bit, fluid will find its way to the rim and be held there only to start the corrosion process.

You don’t want to fill the tire 100%. You need that air bubble to allow the tire to expand and contract as you drive and load changes. If the tire was completely full, you’ll destroy the tire in no time.

You can fill your own tires pretty easily as long as they are reasonable in size and you can get them back up to be reinstalled on the machine. All you need is a bucket, a small sump pump or similar, and a valve stem adapter available on Amazon or even Tractor Supply. They are about $10.

The process is simple. Remove the valve core and let all the air out. Hook your pump up to the adapter and place you pump in the bucket. Pour your fluid of choice in the bucket and start pumping. Just remember to stop every so often and let the air out of the tire. There’s a “burp valve” on the side of the adapter. The pump will slow down and let you know as the sound changes with the pressure increase in the tire. Just be prepared for a little “blow back.” LOL

There are plenty of tire size fill charts available online with a quick search if you want to know how much fluid to procure. ;)
I'm not saying you're wrong or my way is better;)... just that my way works and that's what the tractor dealers do down here in TX, when requested. The method I mention tires/wheels stay on the tractor.:cool:

my rears are full above the tops of the rims standing up. I may have forgot to mention tires were on the tractor and wer off the ground thanks to frontend loader and backhoe outriggers. Have never had rear tires/wheels off the tractor.

Anhoo, you can decide which method you want to do... when you get your shiney new tractor!:D

Happy Tractoring! Ron
 
Wiredawg,

Wanted to make sure I understand correctly: "I cleared about 30 50 to 80 ft trees from my property, dug up the trunks with my backhoe, spread and leveled 175 dumptruck loads of topsoil, maintaining natural grade of the land with box blade, let laborers use my post hole digger attachment to install 5ft tall goat wire around all 2 1/3 acres, dug water lines and drainage ditches." You did this with the tractor in the picture you posted, correct? And, you had never run equipment before?

Question: does it make sense to consider buying used? Significant pros/cons?

Thanks!
 
Wiredawg,

Wanted to make sure I understand correctly: "I cleared about 30 50 to 80 ft trees from my property, dug up the trunks with my backhoe, spread and leveled 175 dumptruck loads of topsoil, maintaining natural grade of the land with box blade, let laborers use my post hole digger attachment to install 5ft tall goat wire around all 2 1/3 acres, dug water lines and drainage ditches." You did this with the tractor in the picture you posted, correct? And, you had never run equipment before?

Question: does it make sense to consider buying used? Significant pros/cons?

Thanks!

I think new is better IF you can find a free financing deal. Mine was 60 Mos no interest, I've seen 72. There are lots of great deals on the internet and Ebay, both new and used. Lots of folks buy a tractor, do a big project, and sell it. My personal prefernce was new as I plan(ned) on keeping for a lifetime.

Regular pros and cons as buying a new or used car. A friend bought a used Northern Tools tractor... he had so many problems, he traded it in on new. Not necessarily typical, just a sample I know of.

Local tractor dealers around here have "package deals" tractor, front end loader, shreader, and post hole digger and flatbed trailer. Sometimes with backhoe too.

https://www.dietztractor.com/invent...he-package-hydrostat-seguin-tx-78155-2644939i

https://www.ewaldkubota.com/tractors/tractor-packages

This is where research, camparison, and analysis. If you have cash, used might make sense.

Hope this helps. Ron
 
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Most of the major brands are offering 0% financing right now. I ordered a John Deere 1025R sub compact utility tractor last month (0%/84 months to keep the payment down). Unfortunately it won't be delivered until mid-November. :(
 
OK, so I have received three bids. All quite similar.

Installing 40 feet of 24" diameter HDPE culvert in drainage ditch next to road

30 foot wide driveway entrance with 15 foot radius down to 12 foot wide driveway, 50 foot of driveway total

Driveway stone in two layers - larger on bottom than finer on top

Brush hog area that is not wooded

Bids are $3,600 to $4,000. Does this seem reasonable? It is actually somewhat less that I thought (not that I have any reason to think my costing was any good).

This would allow me to enter the property and be off the road, as well as measure and plan.

Thanks.
 
OK, so I have received three bids. All quite similar.

Installing 40 feet of 24" diameter HDPE culvert in drainage ditch next to road

30 foot wide driveway entrance with 15 foot radius down to 12 foot wide driveway, 50 foot of driveway total

Driveway stone in two layers - larger on bottom than finer on top

Brush hog area that is not wooded

Bids are $3,600 to $4,000. Does this seem reasonable? It is actually somewhat less that I thought (not that I have any reason to think my costing was any good).

This would allow me to enter the property and be off the road, as well as measure and plan.

Thanks.

This sounds ok.... this all that you could do with box blade, shredder, front loader, but you know what you want to do and how much time you want to do it. Me, I did and do everything. except concrete work.

You get a chance, post pics of your property. If you have beer and BBQ, I'll come help :D

Cheers, Ron
 
Wiredawg,

I have been looking at some youtube videos of people working with compact tractors. I am really pretty amazed with how much can be done. I think that one could cut that bill in half, or a little more than half. You would still have to buy culvert and haul to the lot, but stone and pay delivery charge, so some cost would remain.

I am going to start doing my homework on this.

I'll get some pictures next time we are out; probably after driveway in. I think it may be a long drive for you, but I am really impressed by what you have done and would enjoy working on the land with equipment. I have been working on my smoking skills, and think I smoke up some good ribs, pork butt, and brisket. And, being Pennsylvania, my beer favorites are Yuengling, Straub, and our local Erie Brewing Company. There is another local microbrewery that makes a delicious Kolsch (as well as some awesome pierogies, if you are familiar).

I'll also share that my younger son is in the Air Force; he is a missile facilities maintainer in Minot, ND. He called last night; he is now shift lead in the "calibrated equipment/nuclear-certified equipment" shop. Said he leads six other airmen through the shift. I told him that was a fantastic opportunity at 19 years old. Anyhow, little time out for proud Dad talk there.

Thanks much!!
 
I also purchased a 14ft dump trailer that I upgraded to G rated tires... last load with trailer weighed 21K lbs hauling crushed asphalt. It's nice to haul when you want and put it where you want. Heres a pic of me using my tractor to unload 25KW gen from my dump trailer.

If you ever played with Tonka construction toys, you love "playing" with your tractor, especially the backhoe.:D

20170218_103912.jpg


And I used tractor with forklift to lift hold perlings for shop cover my family helped construct.

20200612_190602.jpg


Didn't catch pics of actual lifting as everyone was focused on getting and holding in place as my BIL welded them.:cool:

Anyhoo, keep researching and learning. As for brand, I like mine, but when researching I looked for the best deal among brand names Kabota, MF, Mahindra and two friends have bought LS and are happy

Cheers, Ron
 
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