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New Turbo advice

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Good transmission shop near Johnson City TN

2006 transmission lines replacement

Ok I am looking for some turbo advice. I am starting to get some shaft play on the stock unit. I have an 06 2500 with about 183k miles on it. The auto trans is being rebuilt this week to about 650hp. I have BBi stage 1 injectors, industrial injection bag of parts for cp3, afe boost driven fuel pump filter combo, head studs, 103lb springs and pushrods, and a smarty jr on tow mode. I will be selling that and getting an mm3. I drive the truck daily and I tow sporadically. Nothing huge, get hay about twice a year. I don’t race unless my wife taunts me in her car. I want something that is reliable and not too much lag. Was looking at the calibrated power 63 or 67 or fleece cheetah or power driven diesel hx351. Was also going to do a manifold at the same time. Open to other suggestions, hopefully someone on here has a similar setup.
 
I would have the stock turbo rebuilt with a larger turbine wheel. It’s great street/towing turbo and isn’t expensive. Turbo re-source in Lake Havasu is who I would use.

You will really like the MM3, assuming you get a good tuner, over the SJR.
 
I find it unusual that your turbo is getting loose at only 183K miles. I’m running an HE351CW that had 150K on it when I bought it and I’ve put another 175K on it with very little wear.
 
I find it unusual that your turbo is getting loose at only 183K miles.

I agree. I am still running the original turbo on my '02 at 345,000 miles. @jraker, how are you checking the play? It is normal to have a fair amount of movement if you are only checking it from the compressor side. This would be because the shaft is rocking like a teeter totter with the journal bearing acting as a pivot point. Is there any indication that the compressor wheel is contacting the housing?

- John
 
Maybe he’s just trying to justify a new turbo....;)

That’s ok, too. I’ve had things fail unexpectedly. The trigger on my shotgun got loose once and I had to get a new one, and my Gretsch kept breaking the G-string so I had to get a new Tele. I understand.
 
I agree. I am still running the original turbo on my '02 at 345,000 miles. @jraker, how are you checking the play? It is normal to have a fair amount of movement if you are only checking it from the compressor side. This would be because the shaft is rocking like a teeter totter with the journal bearing acting as a pivot point. Is there any indication that the compressor wheel is contacting the housing?

- John
John,
The guy that works on my truck is a former Chrysler Master Mechanic from CO. He is the husband of one of my employee's. He mentioned it to me in passing that I might want to start looking at a new turbo as the one that I have is starting to get some play, more than normal. He is not in the business of selling go fast parts, he is now a local fleet diesel mechanic. I really didn't think too much of it and have kept driving it as is. I was more worried about the transmission not holding up. Now that the transmission is done, I am starting the research on the turbo. I just want to not worry when I travel across the country. I rather replace stuff at my convenience then be surprised rolling through Wyoming. A good friend of mine from WA had his grenade on him at 200k miles on his way to work in the tricities. I am glad to see some other datapoints on longevity on here. That was my only datapoint that I had and when someone tells you to start looking for a new one, then well you do. If it will last with larger injectors and a hotter tune then I am all about not changing it out. It smokes a lot right now with the Jr. on Level 2 but I am not getting excessive EGT ~1400 unless I am hauling hay. Normally it will never see 1000.
 
I rather replace stuff at my convenience then be surprised rolling through Wyoming. A good friend of mine from WA had his grenade on him at 200k miles on his way to work in the tricities.

I certainly agree with not wanting any surprise repairs along the road. In general, the fixed geometry OEM turbos on these engines are noted for their reliability and longevity. However, the variable geometry turbos that are used in the 07.5 and newer engines are more problematic. On those turbos the failures are usually related to the controls on the turbo - the actuator controls and soot clogging the variable portion of the turbo.

So, either way you go, I think you will be fine.

- John
 
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