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Electric seat base/motors repair

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B.G. Smith

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Talked to dealer to get estimate to repair one motor on electric seat base (stripped gear), they said no parts, have to replace whole base. Base is $1200.00 plus labor.
 
My BIL replaced the gears.... motors were good, in my former 2003 Ram 2500 SLT. Easy and very inexpensive. Dealers R & R stuff... I wouldn't bother with a junkyard either.

Cheers, Ron
 
The Geno's parts work well but it takes a lot of time to remove the seats...
I had to redo the rear lifter. Now the front lifter is shot. Still goes back and forth as needed to accomodate DW - if that goes will replace both.
 
I just did the cushion, and the rear lift blew as I was undoing everything. It does look like a big job with the entire frame looking like it needs to come out, rivets drilled etc etc. I’ll dive into it if another motor goes bad. Also considering the National brand air ride suspension seat like MWilson and Ozy did.
 
It is kind of a big job, but totally doable. I think I replaced a motor & gear for the rear up and down and just a gear for the front up and down. The back and forth was good.
IMG_E5107.JPG
 
I’m getting close to needing to do my front up/down. I’m considering removing the whole shebang, and doing a recon with a full thorough cleaning of the whole seat and carpet and repainting the frame.
 
I have Good Sam extended warranty, called them to see if the seat motor was covered, they said yes, take it to repair shop and have them call us with estimate. Took it in today , estimated repair, $1200.00 plus, they called insurer and I called insurer, they denied claim saying the stripped gear is not part of the electric component. Afraid I can' recommend Good Sam too highly after this. I've had them since the 100,000 ran out. bg
 
I bought the replacement motors from Geno's. Bought the front and rear motors, my rear motor had stripped the gear. I thought while I was in there I would just replace both. Replaced the rear motor assy. yesterday. After doing the rear motor I backed out on replacing the front motor. It is a very difficult procedure to accomplish without damaging something, the knurled pin is difficult to see to get out and the pin that holds the motor is near impossible because it is between obstructions to either remove or put back in. By the way mine was a rolled pin rather than a split pin and I guess I deformed it on removal as it was way too tight going back. I did things doing this job that if I saw another mechanic do I would not let him work on my truck. Wish I had let the dealer do the job. I now have a spare front motor and the old rear motor less the gear and drive shaft. I watched part of a video on the computer where the guy ground the plastic gear off with a angle grinder, he was attempting to drill the new brass gear/shaft when had enough. maybe when my back quits achi9ng I will feel better about the job/ bg
 
Can't say enough good about Geno's seat parts. Have replaced the cushion and cover on my driver's seat and it went like the the video said. Now doing the Front and Rear seat lift motors; a bit more challenging with the frame in place, but doable. Buy the whole motor and avoid the hassle of trying to fit the gears. And I found using an air chisel with a punch tool went much faster removing the installation pins. I'll bet somebody else has found a better way. Anyone?
 
Can't say enough good about Geno's seat parts. Have replaced the cushion and cover on my driver's seat and it went like the the video said. Now doing the Front and Rear seat lift motors; a bit more challenging with the frame in place, but doable. Buy the whole motor and avoid the hassle of trying to fit the gears. And I found using an air chisel with a punch tool went much faster removing the installation pins. I'll bet somebody else has found a better way. Anyone?
 
Now fitting the tube nut(s) to the shaft on the lift motors. The instruction sheet with the new motors describes how to install the left-hand thread nut on the threaded end of the shaft inside the tube nut. Much easier if you take a 1/8 thick piece of hardened steel, (I used an old edger blade) and cut a 10mm/ 7/16 slot in one edge. Slide your homemade wrench endwise through the slot in the end of the tube nut and engage the nut. Turn counter-clockwise until the nut is tight! The tubenut will turn on the shaft until the nut drops below the access hole ; back it up for another bite. Much easier!
Maybe they will include one with each new motor purchase?
 
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