Here I am

200K mileage service

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Oil leak

Injectors

Status
Not open for further replies.

RMHanes

TDR MEMBER
My 98.5 D2500 truck is coming up on 200,000 miles and wondering what things should be looking at replacing or checking on the engine. Have done the Killer Dowel pin kit, replaced the idler pulley assembly, replaced the water pump and hoses. The oil filter is replaced at every oil change which is about every 5,000 to 6,000 miles and use the Fleetguard which get form Geno's. The fuel filter is replaced every year. Air filter is checked every month visually and shine a flashlight from the inside also as a check. Currently on the third set of batteries and recently getting slower start times so hope to make it through this winter by using the block heater and going to connect a trickle charger similar to what have for the motorcycle. Seem to remember reading that should check or replace the fuel injectors. Also read that should adjust the valves.
 
Just checked FSM interestingly;
-Schedule A @ 150k is correct, or @ 150 months.
- Schedule B dosen't list anything for valve lash "and" only goes to 135k???
Go figure?
I checked mine @ 100, 150, 200 and 250k.
BTW all above k's are "miles".
 
You might consider changing out your brake fluid by flushing your brake lines. I change the fluid (3x in 25 yrs) in the reservoir first and then bleed the brakes till I think I've run enough volume to have refreshed the fluid in the lines. The next time I do this I'll also replace the rubber brake hoses...25 years is probably well beyond their service life. I'm at 230,000 mi.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. Have replaced the brake hoses at least twice so far. Had to also replace the metal brake line since it burst and had to get home but using the parking brake, very slowly also. There was another time that the brake pedal went to the floor board and the brake light came on. This time replace the whole brake line over the fuel tank. When looked at it there were indications that it had rusted through. Just glad that was not on highway and had to do a panic stop! Have changed the power steering fluid also at least once but will change it also. Do not think will do anything with the fuel injectors at present as no signs of leakage into oil or excessive smoke from exhaust. Might also change the transmission and rear axle fluids. Every year grease the ball joints also. Need to check if there are grease fittings in the drive shaft now that think about it.
 
Joe Mc, thanks for the replay. Forgot about the fluid for the clutch and slave unit. Do remember reading that this has to be replaced as a unit and not just the reservoir is that is the only thing that needs to be replaced. What fluid is recommended? Have the owners manual somewhere and also a service manual but have not been able to find them.
 
Since mine is automatic I can't say for sure. However, 99 FSM does state as you mentioned "If inspection or diagnosis indicates additional fluid may be needed, it will be necessary to replace the complete hydraulic linkage assembly."
I just don't understand why?
 
Since mine is automatic I can't say for sure. However, 99 FSM does state as you mentioned "If inspection or diagnosis indicates additional fluid may be needed, it will be necessary to replace the complete hydraulic linkage assembly."
I just don't understand why?
Because they’re sealed and not bleedable......I think I just invented a new word.
 
Don, I understand sealed but does it not have a steel line/pipe from main to slave cylinder? I get that there's no bleeder port on slave but couldn't fluid be flushed by cracking the line nut at slave as fluid is fed into reservoir?
I guess my thinking is it's a hydraulic system with a reservoir.... is there no cap?
Excuse my ignorance but... I guess just knowing it's a sealed system that no service is able? Sorry
 
Yes, they have a cap and you can add fluid, however, the line is hard plastic with a roll pin lock. You could pull the pin and flush the system but they have no bleeder so they are very difficult to get air out. Most venders sell the complete system full of fluid so no bleeding necessary. You can buy each item but again bleeding is hard. I have done it both ways. The kit is stupid expensive so I have been just replacing the one that fails.
 
Thank you for helping me understand now.

This is a prefilled/sealed aftermarket assembly, it uses a one piece line so it can be somewhat difficult to thread the slave cylinder down to the transmission. The Mopar assembly has a two piece line with a quick connector in the middle, easier to thread.


download (6).png
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top