30K mile service... and a little extra

[gsbrockman]

The 4wd trucks also used sealed wheel bearings. I did it thru ABS sensor. It was pretty easy.

Still.....I presume it required caliper removal and front brake rotor removal, correct?

 

[AH64ID]

Still.....I presume it required caliper removal and front brake rotor removal, correct?

Correct.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Good to know since I’ve been a scam-oil user for over 35 years.

My Dad was the first “AMZ/OIL” dealer in WA State. That was early 70’s. So I have been using it for around 48 years.

 

[Cummins12V98]

GS it made my day knowing I helped you save time with my measure it method.

 

[crazy jerry]

give the vacuum brake tool to the neighbor as a good will gesture and be glad youll never have to see it again.
short piece of clear motorcycle fuel line on the bleeder nipple and other end in a 20oz pop bottle works far better. put few oz in the bottle then open the valve and go press the peddle a few times. keep a eye on the resorvoir and fill as needed

 

[NIsaacs]

My Dad was the first “AMZ/OIL” dealer in WA State. That was early 70’s. So I have been using it for around 48 years.

Says the 50 year old guy who used it on his bicycle

 

[Cummins12V98]

Hey I had the fastest bicycle around.

 

[Topzide]

Simple shop tip for bleeding brakes. You can take a BBQ propane regulator, put an air fitting on the inlet and a barbed fitting on the output. Then get yourself a master cylinder cap that fits your truck, install a tire valve stem in it. The regulator will take air pressure down to 1-2 psi. Remove valve core, fill reservoir, attach hose from regulator to cap and open bleeder to change fluid! Learned from an old Volvo tech. Volvo's scheduled maintenance had brake fluid flush at 50K. Hope this will help with service. Can be adapted to help find vacuum leaks since low pressure.

 

[Cummins12V98]

I fine it easiest to either have speed bleeders installed or simply have someone at the brake pedal that also keeps the MC filled and me with the jar and clear tubing and wrench at the wheels. OLD SCHOOL

 

[jacknife]

So you add grease to the grease that is already in a sealed bearing . Did the factory grease disappear ? I fail to see that as a positive thing . You either clean and repack the bearings or you don't . IMHO

 

[AH64ID]

So you add grease to the grease that is already in a sealed bearing . Did the factory grease disappear ? I fail to see that as a positive thing . You either clean and repack the bearings or you don't . IMHO

Adding grease to the factory sealed bearings has become more of a popular thing. The amount of grease from the factory is less than impressive, and folks are getting a much longer service life from sealed bearings by greasing them. The main reason they fail is that they go dry. So bottom line last, yes the grease does slowly disappear.

 

[jacknife]

Really ! where does it go ? Unless a seal is bad I have never seen grease just evaporate . Gas does , grease not so much . If you believe it is a positive thing keep doing it

 

[AH64ID]

Really ! where does it go ? Unless a seal is bad I have never seen grease just evaporate . Gas does , grease not so much . If you believe it is a positive thing keep doing it

There is so little grease to begin with that it doesn’t take much going past the seal for the bearings to dry out. Grease also goes bad from wear contamination, and when there isn’t much to begin with it gets bad faster.

I wasn’t sold on greasing them years ago, but there is plenty of evidence that it’s beneficial these days.

 

[bcbender]

I think I may try it on the 20'.. I never did on my 04, but I did change unit brgs @120K, sold it at 195K.. Any tricks to be aware of, I had a problem with intermittent ABS/Brake warning light shortly after changing unit brgs, Maybe Chineese sensors, but always wondered about risk pulling the sensor to get the grease in.