CAD Delete or Not?

[Iron Duke II]

Anyone here tried a cad delete kit?
Sounds like it could be an alternative for offroad, but don't know about highway.
https://torqueking.com/product/11309/qu11309-ram-94-99-cad-delete-kit-for-dana-60-front-axles/
The OEM CAD is more and more troublesome and the posi-lok system reportedly kicks out once in a while randomly.

 

[Road Dog]

My current '02 is CAD free but my '98 had a troublesome CAD. The plastic vacuum lines from the transfer case came loose and touched the exhaust leading to issues. Once the vacuum was sorted out it worked great. It's a simple system with few moving parts.

 

[petersonj]

Personally, I like the CAD unit. I have modified mine by removing the vacuum controls from the transfer case and installing a vacuum switch in the cab. I use the 2 Lo option frequently. I don't do much off-roading, but when I do, it has never failed me. I wouldn't have it any other way. Still the original CAD unit at 357,000 miles.

- John

 

[BarryG]

My 01 375 k on it and it is still working ok. Only issues I had with it were self inflicted ie working on something else and yanked some vac lines out
Never felt a need to change it and it was used frequently

 

[SAndreasen]

Anyone here tried a cad delete kit?
Sounds like it could be an alternative for offroad, but don't know about highway.
https://torqueking.com/product/11309/qu11309-ram-94-99-cad-delete-kit-for-dana-60-front-axles/
The OEM CAD is more and more troublesome and the posi-lok system reportedly kicks out once in a while randomly.

Why turn your truck into a chebby or dorf?

 

[Iron Duke II]

Why turn your truck into a chebby or dorf?

It's yours for $25k plus shipping.

 

[GrantP]

What are you reasons for wanting to delete the CAD setup? It has its pros and cons.

 

[Iron Duke II]

What are you reasons for wanting to delete the CAD setup? It has its pros and cons.

So far have yet to determine the reason it will not actuate. 4wd light does not come on unless the switch is removed and pushed manually. The CAD switch and actuator checked out. There is better than +20psi of vacuum at the actuator and no vacuum leaks I can find. The vacuum pump draws 27 psi.

I followed the two videos to check the CAD switch and vacuum actuator.

 

[petersonj]

There is better than +20psi of vacuum at the actuator and no vacuum leaks I can find. The vacuum pump draws 27 psi.

Did you remove the CAD and test with vacuum as shown in the second video? Also, just for clarification, vacuum gauges are usually measured in inches of mercury, not in pounds per square inch. So, your number would be 20" Hg. and 27" Hg. respectively (29.91" Hg equal approximately 14.7 psi).

- John

 

[Iron Duke II]

Did you remove the CAD and test with vacuum as shown in the second video?

- John

Yes

 

[petersonj]

When you had the CAD unit removed, did the sliding collar and associated parts look ok? Were the plastic clips in place?

I noticed on the first video that only one line was tested for vacuum. While one line is being checked for vacuum, the other line should be check for venting, and vice versa when the other line is checked.

You didn't say specifically, so I'm asking. Are you only having problems with the 4wd indicator lamp, or is 4wd selection not working at all?

- John

 

[Iron Duke II]

The collar, fork and the plastic clips are all in very good shape.
Mine has vacuum on both the black and red lines. Cannot locate a leak.



The indicator lamp and switch are ok. Checked the indicator switch out of the CAD housing.
The 4wd selector shifter moves, however the collar is not being moved by the CAD fork to connect the front axles.

I took it to local shop this morning that I sort of trust. However they spent an hour checking it out an also couldn't figure it out. I had them stop after almost an hour this afternoon.

 

[petersonj]

I only mention this because sometimes simple things can be overlooked. The CAD sliding fork will not engage if the axle splines are not lined up. Has anyone raised the right front tire off the ground and rotated the tire by hand while someone is in the cab selecting 4 wheel drive with the engine running?

- John

 

[Iron Duke II]

I only mention this because sometimes simple things can be overlooked. The CAD sliding fork will not engage if the axle splines are not lined up. Has anyone raised the right front tire off the ground and rotated the tire by hand while someone is in the cab selecting 4 wheel drive with the engine running?

- John

I have not raised the right front tire off the ground and rotated the tire by hand while someone is in the cab selecting 4 wheel drive with the engine running. Will try it though.

 

[JMcCoy]

The CAD is crap. No two ways about it. It was never intended for people who need and use 4wd. Changing to a manual vacuum switch does nothing for reliability. It already has a manual vacuum switch on the transfer case, which is super reliable. It does however give you 2 wheel low, which is worth it. Unless it's a catastrophic failure, the CAD usually fails due to water or condensation in the non-vacuum side of the diaphragm. You may be able to dry it out. The Posi-Loc works great. It's basically a PTO cable. If it is jumping out, just turn the adjustment knob. That's it. Just remember to shift the transfer case in and out before actuating the CAD. Now it doesn't correct the fact that these are watered down Dana 60s with Dana 44 30 axles with 30 spline and a weak slip collar to lock the passenger axle together. '00 thru early '02 had 32 spline due to 30 spline failures. Tru Dana 60s were 35 spline. I installed one-piece Yukon 35 spline CAD-Delete axles. Now I have no worries.

 

[Iron Duke II]

I had new vacuum actuator on hand as a spare after the system acted up the first time a couple years ago. I installed it and there was no difference.

 

[Iron Duke II]

After going back through the vacuum lines and getting a pointer from another member on the Transfer Case Vacuum Switch vent line, the system is back to oem. Not great, but it's back to "normal".

 

[SAndreasen]

The CAD is crap. No two ways about it. It was never intended for people who need and use 4wd. Changing to a manual vacuum switch does nothing for reliability. It already has a manual vacuum switch on the transfer case, which is super reliable. It does however give you 2 wheel low, which is worth it. Unless it's a catastrophic failure, the CAD usually fails due to water or condensation in the non-vacuum side of the diaphragm. You may be able to dry it out. The Posi-Loc works great. It's basically a PTO cable. If it is jumping out, just turn the adjustment knob. That's it. Just remember to shift the transfer case in and out before actuating the CAD. Now it doesn't correct the fact that these are watered down Dana 60s with Dana 44 30 axles with 30 spline and a weak slip collar to lock the passenger axle together. '00 thru early '02 had 32 spline due to 30 spline failures. Tru Dana 60s were 35 spline. I installed one-piece Yukon 35 spline CAD-Delete axles. Now I have no worries.

 

[SAndreasen]

I had a load 25,000 gvw going up a steep hill in 4 low and sheared the bolts off on the transfer case output flange never hurt anything in the front axle yet