Fluidamper or not?

[Iron Duke II]

I'm staring at a vibration damper replacement sooner than later as preventative measure. I've come across the article in the TDR from 2011 that speaks to keeping an eye out for problems related to the stock version. There are a couple YouTube's that do not show removing the fan and or addressing the magnetic tach pickup, as I had hoped. The directions that Fluidamper cites on their website is rather vague and brief for my liking. It would be nice to install the upgrade, however I'm not sure it is worth the potential install hassles I mentioned.
https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/engine-speed-sensor-tach-gap.2544352/#lg=thread-2544352&slide=0
I have requested the install instructions from Geno's to see if they are any more complete than those from Fluidamper.
I also am including the link from when Broncocarl92 did this.

 

[Timd32]

I have one, it was not too bad, expensive thing.

Harness had to be modified and I routed it a slightly different way.

I have a North East truck so everything is pretty much a disaster, so I was already taking the fan assembly off. Can't speak to trying it with it on.

For me the plastic fan shroud was one of the harder parts as the little bolts and clips were frozen. It was a giant rabbit hole. So I dropped back and just had to bite the bullet and get a metric hardware assortment and the little press clips for basically everything I touched.

But on the sensor harness I had a new sensor, again NE truck everything is shot typically. I spliced and solder a longer piece in the middle and routed it to the outside of the case.

There are 2 case bolts that come out to mount the new sensor bracket, instructions were in the box.

Here are some pics.

Gotta love the NE Rigs.....

Original Harness to the left. That plug is the old harness.

Still old harness....

Thru the magic of the internet all nice and shiny........ new mounting hardware for sensor comes with kit, replaces case bolt.

Harness now extended and to the right side...

This is the case bolt mount. Disregard the other wiring it's always worse before it gets better.....

If you have a NE truck might need some parts all of this was trash....

But with some elbow grease patience and just plain brute force bit by bit it comes together.....

Good luck with your fix.

 

[BigPapa]

I've not installed a Fluidamper on a 2nd Gen but I have had my stocker off several times. I see no need to remove the fan or shroud. What exactly are your concerns on the ESS? Relocation looks pretty straightforward to me.

 

[Iron Duke II]

I have one, it was not too bad, expensive thing.

Harness had to be modified and I routed it a slightly different way.

I have a North East truck so everything is pretty much a disaster, so I was already taking the fan assembly off. Can't speak to trying it with it on.

For me the plastic fan shroud was one of the harder parts as the little bolts and clips were frozen. It was a giant rabbit hole. So I dropped back and just had to bite the bullet and get a metric hardware assortment and the little press clips for basically everything I touched.

But on the sensor harness I had a new sensor, again NE truck everything is shot typically. I spliced and solder a longer piece in the middle and routed it to the outside of the case.

There are 2 case bolts that come out to mount the new sensor bracket, instructions were in the box.

Here are some pics.

Gotta love the NE Rigs.....

View attachment 129500

Original Harness to the left. That plug is the old harness.
View attachment 129501

Still old harness....
View attachment 129504

Thru the magic of the internet all nice and shiny........ new mounting hardware for sensor comes with kit, replaces case bolt.

View attachment 129503

View attachment 129502

Harness now extended and to the right side...

View attachment 129505

This is the case bolt mount. Disregard the other wiring it's always worse before it gets better.....
View attachment 129506

If you have a NE truck might need some parts all of this was trash....

View attachment 129507

View attachment 129508

View attachment 129512

But with some elbow grease patience and just plain brute force bit by bit it comes together.....

View attachment 129513

View attachment 129514

View attachment 129510

View attachment 129509

Good luck with your fix.

View attachment 129515

At first glance this give me a better idea of where the sensor would be re-positioned.

 

[Iron Duke II]

I've not installed a Fluidamper on a 2nd Gen but I have had my stocker off several times. I see no need to remove the fan or shroud. What exactly are your concerns on the ESS? Relocation looks pretty straightforward to me.

The information provided by Timd32 provides a clearer guide of where it is relocated.

 

[Iron Duke II]

Duh! I overlooked the directions from the Fluidampr site. https://fluidampr.com/wp-content/uploads/4NFH04_Cummins-Sensor-Relocation.pdf

 

[Iron Duke II]

Thank you folks.

 

[Timd32]

Don't forget to put the belt on before you do the sensor deal.

I don't know I feel I did that. Was a long time ago now, but remember something like that.

 

[GAmes]

True, the downside of the fluidampr is you have to remove the ESS to replace the belt. I'm putting a stock damper on the engine I am currently building.

 

[Iron Duke II]

True, the downside of the fluidampr is you have to remove the ESS to replace the belt. I'm putting a stock damper on the engine I am currently building.

Now I'm reconsidering the Fluiddampr option. Didn't realize the ESS removal to replace a belt was enough of negative to out weigh benefits. As a long time user of Fluidampr, they may hear of this and offer you a freebie to stay with their product.

 

[Timd32]

Another long post (will try to stay on topic here)..........

The stock deal is more then fine, I've talked to so many folks who say these 5.9's were so well done done by Cummins, they truly are engineering marvels, the fluidampr is a great product but it's not needed by any means for most of us who run them if we are being honest, it's a marketting deal and they look cool for sure, and weight a ton. But I think they are a bit of snake oil for a stock truck and serve no purpose on them.

But I had alot of fun putting it on and it was such a great add to my adventure. I would do it again for sure. Mine original was beyond shot, I had the extra $, it was a fun purchase.

Don't worry about tossing a belt on in a parking lot under stress.

Just to side track, I did a boat load of work to this NE rig, they are just absolutely horrible from the salt and abuse of the winters around here. After getting mine back on the road, I was still working thru some stuff, I needed to address my non functional fan clutch, so I bought the Mopar fan clutch, the little wrenches, 10min deal swapped the clutch over and done.

24 miles later (miles, not hours) there was this little squeaking noise when I got to work in the AM, took it out at lunch and it shredded the belt, I had forgotten to recheck the fan pulley bolts when I changed the fan clutch, the wrenches sit over top the bolts of the fan pulley and when I whacked the wrenches with the hammer it loosened the fan hub pulley bolts and they all worked their way out on the madien voyage the next AM.

I called Geno's ordered my replacement belt, fan hub bearing, tenisoner, they overnighted it all, which is why it's great to have them in your corner when needed.

So I had to put a new belt on and fix the pulley deal in the parking lot. It was an easy fix, the sensor popped right off, was easy to adjust. I torque marked my pulley bolts.

Don't let the belt deal get you down.

Broken Down.......

Parking Lot Repairs.......

Don't forget the torque marks.... (this applies to many many years of the 5.9L, very important to check these bolts if you whack them with those fan wrenches)

Good luck with your choice. Sometimes it's about the adventure getting from Point A to B.

 

[GAmes]

Wow. I just remove the fan to replace the clutch. I did it in a Ram parking lot just a couple weeks ago. Took about 15 minutes. I do have the advantage of a modified fan shroud.

It wasn't due to having to remove the ESS that I am going with a stock damper on my new build. I just don't plan to put 500k miles on it. When I bought the Fluidampr that I have I was under the impression that it is warrantied for life and never need replacement. I have since found out they are a wear item and with over 500k on it I won't reuse it when I swap engines later this year.

 

[Timd32]

Nice modification.

The original fan clutch was done with the shroud in place, agree it was a 10min job to do that scope.

I never thought the little pulley bolts would back out like that, but the Genos wrenches sit right over the little heads of the pulley bolts.. for sure was caused by me not checking them again, I was all proud of my wrenches see the old post.

When I got to work I heard a chirp and actually took a video of it when I arrived as my truck was not chirping before.

On NE trucks the little clips and bolts for a fan shroud are just toast, in the parking lot it was quick removal of all that less then 45min to get it apart and back together.

I wanted to make sure I did not damage the sensor or wiring so I pulled it all apart. What a mess I created.

Blue locktite and locktite and some marks are free.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/fan-clutch-wrench-set.259518/

 

[Iron Duke II]

Nice modification.

The original fan clutch was done with the shroud in place, agree it was a 10min job to do that scope.

I never thought the little pulley bolts would back out like that, but the Genos wrenches sit right over the little heads of the pulley bolts.. for sure was caused by me not checking them again, I was all proud of my wrenches see the old post.

When I got to work I heard a chirp and actually took a video of it when I arrived as my truck was not chirping before.

On NE trucks the little clips and bolts for a fan shroud are just toast, in the parking lot it was quick removal of all that less then 45min to get it apart and back together.

I wanted to make sure I did not damage the sensor or wiring so I pulled it all apart. What a mess I created.

Blue locktite and locktite and some marks are free.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/fan-clutch-wrench-set.259518/

Thank for the guidance to consider. Good info for posterity as well.

 

[Iron Duke II]

Wow. I just remove the fan to replace the clutch. I did it in a Ram parking lot just a couple weeks ago. Took about 15 minutes. I do have the advantage of a modified fan shroud.

View attachment 129544


View attachment 129545

It wasn't due to having to remove the ESS that I am going with a stock damper on my new build. I just don't plan to put 500k miles on it. When I bought the Fluidampr that I have I was under the impression that it is warrantied for life and never need replacement. I have since found out they are a wear item and with over 500k on it I won't reuse it when I swap engines later this year.

Yeah the radiator shroud would be a worthwhile modification to mimic.

 

[Iron Duke II]

Wow. I just remove the fan to replace the clutch. I did it in a Ram parking lot just a couple weeks ago. Took about 15 minutes. I do have the advantage of a modified fan shroud.

View attachment 129544


View attachment 129545

It wasn't due to having to remove the ESS that I am going with a stock damper on my new build. I just don't plan to put 500k miles on it. When I bought the Fluidampr that I have I was under the impression that it is warrantied for life and never need replacement. I have since found out they are a wear item and with over 500k on it I won't reuse it when I swap engines later this year.

Would you be willing to share any other photos, drawings or comments on how and what fasteners, etc.. worked to mod your fan shroud?

 

[GAmes]

I wish I could say it was my idea, but I got it from an article in the TDR quite a few years ago In a nutshell I used a miter saw to make the cuts because they do not flex. The t-nut plates made for wood. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-20-Zinc-Plated-Tee-Nut-4-Pack-802301/204274194 I made the mistake of driving one into the plastic after drilling the holes. Bad idea. After I fixed the broken piece I flattened the barbs and epoxied the nuts to the underside of the plastic on the single bolt locations. The double bolts are held on with regular nuts. The metal straps were cut from some scrap metal. These are my only other pictures.

 

[Iron Duke II]

Thinking out load. My understanding is there is need to check timing when installing the vibration damper. However, for reference info only, due to the difference in diameter between the stock damper vs Fluidampr, are there any considerations to be aware of for adjusting timing. The reason for the question is related to the comment cited at 13:44 on the Cummins Spill Timing Method B+C Model video: .

 

[GAmes]

My laptop speakers don't work, so I can't comment on the video but removing and installing a damper does not affect timing in any way. Perhaps it changes the way you time the engine using the spill port method. IDK because I use a dial indicator to set my timing.

 

[Iron Duke II]

My laptop speakers don't work, so I can't comment on the video but removing and installing a damper does not affect timing in any way. Perhaps it changes the way you time the engine using the spill port method. IDK because I use a dial indicator to set my timing.

I inadvertently left out no, "My understanding is there is no need to check timing when installing the vibration damper" from my comment.

I appreciate the valued input.