Fluidamper or not?

[Iron Duke II]

I have one, it was not too bad, expensive thing.

Harness had to be modified and I routed it a slightly different way.

I have a North East truck so everything is pretty much a disaster, so I was already taking the fan assembly off. Can't speak to trying it with it on.

For me the plastic fan shroud was one of the harder parts as the little bolts and clips were frozen. It was a giant rabbit hole. So I dropped back and just had to bite the bullet and get a metric hardware assortment and the little press clips for basically everything I touched.

But on the sensor harness I had a new sensor, again NE truck everything is shot typically. I spliced and solder a longer piece in the middle and routed it to the outside of the case.

There are 2 case bolts that come out to mount the new sensor bracket, instructions were in the box.

Here are some pics.

Gotta love the NE Rigs.....

View attachment 129500

Original Harness to the left. That plug is the old harness.
View attachment 129501

Still old harness....
View attachment 129504

Thru the magic of the internet all nice and shiny........ new mounting hardware for sensor comes with kit, replaces case bolt.

View attachment 129503

View attachment 129502

Harness now extended and to the right side...

View attachment 129505

This is the case bolt mount. Disregard the other wiring it's always worse before it gets better.....
View attachment 129506

If you have a NE truck might need some parts all of this was trash....

View attachment 129507

View attachment 129508

View attachment 129512

But with some elbow grease patience and just plain brute force bit by bit it comes together.....

View attachment 129513

View attachment 129514

View attachment 129510

View attachment 129509

Good luck with your fix.

View attachment 129515

I am nearly at the point of installing the 94-98 Fluidampr, however the instructions do not provide any mention I can find for removing the oem sensor or replacement of the sensor standoff bolts with shorter bolts.
The related instructions provide a small photo for the relocation bolts, however the angle the photo was taken makes it difficult to clearly determine the exact bolts to be removed. Then I recalled your post. Just to clarify attached is what I believe are the locations for the two bolts that need to be removed for the new sensor bracket?

 

[Timd32]

The front case has a few things going on bolt wise.

1. Not all case bolts are same length. Some just hold the cover on to the timing case housing, some pass thru the housing and help hold the housing to the block.

2. The longer ones you need to put sealant on them so it seals properly since it's passing thru the timing case into the block. They could leak, the removed bolts that need it should have some on the bolts.

I was doing my KDP, cover, front seal, new timing cover in general, and damper plus new sensor, so I had all sorts of stuff apart.

If you reuse your old sensor, you still have to make the harness longer, I don't see how the stock harness is long enough. It's possible maybe some are longer then what mine was.

Those bolt locations probably are correct how you show then.

Again since I was doing all sorts of.other stuff I also replaced the old sensor mount bolts, maybe that's part of the kit, I would have used new hardware either way only because I have a large assortment of that black metric hardware.

Are these in the way? Does the kit say to replace them? It's possible they are out of the way. But same applies they could be cover only or cover and case bolts so seal them up if longer.

 

[Timd32]

I can't see much for the old mounting bolts, it's a really bad spot for pictures.

Here us what I have...... note the great orange sealant the PO used on the oil pan that leaks really bad, shame because it's a brand new pan they just put it on like my 4yo uses toothpaste. Besides that...

This is how I did my harness, this is the factory connector, then to the right is a new sensor which I actually had my SIL splice and solder the thing longer. (Kinda like brining a shirt over to get a button sewed on)

Underside view, sorry this is best and final on these, it kinda is all put together and don't have good access.

You can see I used the black permatex on that longer bolt that passes thru the cover.

Anyone doing a 47RE soon, I'm thinking I'm pretty much toast in reassembly, I have crap everywhere for this truck. I think I need to make a big push get it going and maybe look to pass this truck on. Either way don't need to skew your thread, will start a new one when the time comes.

 

[Iron Duke II]

The front case has a few things going on bolt wise.

1. Not all case bolts are same length. Some just hold the cover on to the timing case housing, some pass thru the housing and help hold the housing to the block.

2. The longer ones you need to put sealant on them so it seals properly since it's passing thru the timing case into the block. They could leak, the removed bolts that need it should have some on the bolts.

I was doing my KDP, cover, front seal, new timing cover in general, and damper plus new sensor, so I had all sorts of stuff apart.

If you reuse your old sensor, you still have to make the harness longer, I don't see how the stock harness is long enough. It's possible maybe some are longer then what mine was.

Those bolt locations probably are correct how you show then.

Again since I was doing all sorts of.other stuff I also replaced the old sensor mount bolts, maybe that's part of the kit, I would have used new hardware either way only because I have a large assortment of that black metric hardware.

Are these in the way? Does the kit say to replace them? It's possible they are out of the way. But same applies they could be cover only or cover and case bolts so seal them up if longer.

View attachment 130003

Thanks for timely reply. Yes before removing the oem sensor bolts I thought it best to check with the forum since the instructions provided by Fluidampr was not in my view complete.

1. My understanding is there are four types of bolts. Two oem stud/bolts that mount the crank speed sensor(aka ess) thread size of M8x1.25 , one has a short shank, the other a long shank. Then ten short shanked bolts (16mm length) and eight long shanked bolts (50mm length).

2. Sealant should be used on the longer bolts, noted. The kit does not include replacement timing cover bolts

3. The Fluidampr includes the wiring extension kit to relocate the sensor. Weighing my options to us it or do what Broncocarl92 did @28:02.

4. I haven't put the new damper up through and onto the crankshaft, however measuring from the center of the crank out and the new damper the ess studs clear. However, I would prefer they be replaced. Again Broncocarl92 mentions the oem ess bolt replacement at this point of his video.

Let me know if you see any notable flaws in my comments. Cheers

 

[Iron Duke II]

I can't see much for the old mounting bolts, it's a really bad spot for pictures.

Here us what I have...... note the great orange sealant the PO used on the oil pan that leaks really bad, shame because it's a brand new pan they just put it on like my 4yo uses toothpaste. Besides that...

This is how I did my harness, this is the factory connector, then to the right is a new sensor which I actually had my SIL splice and solder the thing longer. (Kinda like brining a shirt over to get a button sewed on)

View attachment 130005

Underside view, sorry this is best and final on these, it kinda is all put together and don't have good access.

View attachment 130006

View attachment 130007

You can see I used the black permatex on that longer bolt that passes thru the cover.

View attachment 130008

Anyone doing a 47RE soon, I'm thinking I'm pretty much toast in reassembly, I have crap everywhere for this truck. I think I need to make a big push get it going and maybe look to pass this truck on. Either way don't need to skew your thread, will start a new one when the time comes.

Thanks. Some of the best photos I have seen of the underside of the relocation of the ess. The very bottom one in the corner of the block is as the instructions state, this confirms it.

Fingers crossed for your 47RE.

 

[Timd32]

#3. I basically have the same wiring set up except I extended the sensor side not the truck side. Guess I wind up with an extra solder deal, but can say it's basically still a single plug which I think fits the same purpose he describes.

#4. Reusing the one long bottom bolt you remove to mount the sensor and then the old wiring clip bolt it the way to go. They are all the same for sure, if the length is the same. Which he shows it that way. I had all new because my truck is a NE rig and everything was basically like the Titanic and was pretty sad shape.

I think you got this covered. Good luck on your fix.

 

[Iron Duke II]

#3. I basically have the same wiring set up except I extended the sensor side not the truck side. Guess I wind up with an extra solder deal, but can say it's basically still a single plug which I think fits the same purpose he describes.

#4. Reusing the one long bottom bolt you remove to mount the sensor and then the old wiring clip bolt it the way to go. They are all the same for sure, if the length is the same. Which he shows it that way. I had all new because my truck is a NE rig and everything was basically like the Titanic and was pretty sad shape.

I think you got this covered. Good luck on your fix.

Reassuring see this is working out.

I sent an email in to Fluidampr Tech Support late Friday to also check it out as well.

 

[CRodi]

Before splicing into your ESS wiring harness, try unravelling the harness from the truck side (using Timd32's description) harness. This gave me enough slack to reroute the truck harness ESS wiring to the sensor connector. If this doesn't give you enough slack, then I like Timd32's idea of extending the sensor side of the harness as opposed to the truck side harness. I try not to splice into any of the original harness if I can avoid it.

 

[Iron Duke II]

Before splicing into your ESS wiring harness, try unravelling the harness from the truck side (using Timd32's description) harness. This gave me enough slack to reroute the truck harness ESS wiring to the sensor connector. If this doesn't give you enough slack, then I like Timd32's idea of extending the sensor side of the harness as opposed to the truck side harness. I try not to splice into any of the original harness if I can avoid it.

I intend to follow the described method vs the provided wiring kit, if possible.

 

[Iron Duke II]

One of the oem ess stud bolts will not turn and brake free. I do not wish to damage it and the Fluidampr clears them both comfortably. So they are staying in place.

Fluidampr installed.

Thanks for the guidance.

 

[Iron Duke II]

Before splicing into your ESS wiring harness, try unravelling the harness from the truck side (using Timd32's description) harness. This gave me enough slack to reroute the truck harness ESS wiring to the sensor connector. If this doesn't give you enough slack, then I like Timd32's idea of extending the sensor side of the harness as opposed to the truck side harness. I try not to splice into any of the original harness if I can avoid it.

Plenty of slack to run the wiring without using the relocation wiring.

 

[Timd32]

Great news.

 

[JMcCoy]

Definitely smoothed my engine out. And that's saying something since I also did a Colt stage 4 cam and bumped my timing up at the same time.
Btw, I have the Fluidampr dowel pin jig/kit if anyone wants it. You just need to buy one little dowel. I'll give it to you for shipping.

 

[Iron Duke II]

The truck has a smoother idle, less in-cab vibration and drive-line noises since installing the Fluidampr.