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Bad drive train vibration fix

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I.O.D Fuse (#12?)

What would you do...Inner gear housing leak

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Posting for posterity and reference.

History:
Last I week I purchased a 96' 12V with only 124K miles on it. Unusual for a 25 year old truck. It was reasonably priced. No disclosure by the PO. They were dumping it. So, I knew I would be putting some $ to sort everything out. Visual inspection revealed dark transmission fluid, leaking rear main, leaking t-case, leaking valve covers, looked like original fuel filter, engine oil OK, no evidence of front seal leaking, no known history of KDP fix, and looked like a 4" exhaust, but no evidence of fuel pump/injector/turbo modifications. Not sure about serpentine belt, but felt soft with no cracks. No pyro or boost gauges. Very, very clean interior and dash board.

Problem:
Upon test driving and driving home, the truck had a rattle/thump/ coming from the rear. Sounded/felt like a broken leaf spring. However, I did not see any visual issues with my initial inspection. It drove/rode very ruff.

I live in the Denver metro area and we are required to have a smog test to register vehicles. While on the dyno, the techs immediately stopped the testing. The rear end was hopping all over the place and would not stay on dyno. We quickly discovered both rear tires had internal belt separations, it was visible and bad. Tire treads looked great. It would have been a challenge to sort this out with out watching it on the dyno. The low miles makes me think the truck was parked a lot. To complete the test they strapped it down with 2,000l bs of weight to keep it on the dyno. Smog test passed with flying colors - whew.

Fix:
New tires all around. Tire shop also checked alignment and front end. Everything tight and straight. Very happy about that.

Also, while on the dyno engine quickly overheated under the load. Now trying to sort that out. The PO mentioned he had a recent radiator flush. Will post findings in the future.
 
Posting for posterity and reference.

While on the dyno, the techs immediately stopped the testing. The rear end was hopping all over the place and would not stay on dyno. We quickly discovered both rear tires had internal belt separations, it was visible and bad.

They were taking a big chance on the tires not blowing the tread off. I would have stopped the test until new tires were installed.
 
Posting for posterity and reference.

History:
Last I week I purchased a 96' 12V with only 124K miles on it. Unusual for a 25 year old truck. It was reasonably priced. No disclosure by the PO. They were dumping it. So, I knew I would be putting some $ to sort everything out. Visual inspection revealed dark transmission fluid, leaking rear main, leaking t-case, leaking valve covers, looked like original fuel filter, engine oil OK, no evidence of front seal leaking, no known history of KDP fix, and looked like a 4" exhaust, but no evidence of fuel pump/injector/turbo modifications. Not sure about serpentine belt, but felt soft with no cracks. No pyro or boost gauges. Very, very clean interior and dash board.

Problem:
Upon test driving and driving home, the truck had a rattle/thump/ coming from the rear. Sounded/felt like a broken leaf spring. However, I did not see any visual issues with my initial inspection. It drove/rode very ruff.

I live in the Denver metro area and we are required to have a smog test to register vehicles. While on the dyno, the techs immediately stopped the testing. The rear end was hopping all over the place and would not stay on dyno. We quickly discovered both rear tires had internal belt separations, it was visible and bad. Tire treads looked great. It would have been a challenge to sort this out with out watching it on the dyno. The low miles makes me think the truck was parked a lot. To complete the test they strapped it down with 2,000l bs of weight to keep it on the dyno. Smog test passed with flying colors - whew.

Fix:
New tires all around. Tire shop also checked alignment and front end. Everything tight and straight. Very happy about that.

Also, while on the dyno engine quickly overheated under the load. Now trying to sort that out. The PO mentioned he had a recent radiator flush. Will post findings in the future.

flushing the radiator is good but you need to pull it out and steam clean the grease from the outside of the radiator fins they will plug with oil from the crankcase vent and the radiator won’t pass enough air for the fan clutch to work
 
flushing the radiator is good but you need to pull it out and steam clean the grease from the outside of the radiator fins they will plug with oil from the crankcase vent and the radiator won’t pass enough air for the fan clutch to work
Thanks for the input. Geno's mentioned that it may need to be replaced. It holds temps well without a load and AC is ice cold, meaning fan clutch is OK.
 
Mine was fine until I put a load on it then it would heat up I didn’t pull the radiator I just used my radiator genie and some cleaner and washed the radiator from both side and it now runs cool
 
@Scotty B, your '96 may need the outside of the radiator cleaned, but the crankcase vent should be located at the lower left rear portion of the engine, not near the radiator as in the case of the '98.5 through '02 engines.

- John
 
@Scotty B, your '96 may need the outside of the radiator cleaned, but the crankcase vent should be located at the lower left rear portion of the engine, not near the radiator as in the case of the '98.5 through '02 engines.

- John
Thanks John, I will be doing that soon. I will post an update on multiple maintenance findings, upgrades, and details I have discovered about the truck.
 
flushing the radiator is good but you need to pull it out and steam clean the grease from the outside of the radiator fins they will plug with oil from the crankcase vent and the radiator won’t pass enough air for the fan clutch to work

That is a 24 valve engine problem. Not true of a 12 valve. The road draft tube is under the engine near the starter.
 
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