Fifth Wheel Trailer Brake Wiring

[Cummins12V98]

I have used the Dexter grease injection on my 2008 Jayco 34RLS that I have owned since new with zero issues,10s of thousands of miles towing. And, temperature monitoring is a required method of measuring bearing health on industrial motors, pumps, and fans. I have also done that for years in power plants and with my own equipment. Millions of motor, pump, and fan bearings are greased without disassembly and last for years of almost continuous running, including those that are outdoors. You can add millions of tractors and like vehicles to the list.

How often do you grease the front wheel bearings on you 2018? Never is the answer, they are sealed, unless you have upgraded them. I do my Dynatracs about every 80,000 miles. The point, yours is not the only method that works. Lighten up.

Thanks for the cover! Some times I get CHITZ about what I do as it's a fun thing to do.

 

[AH64ID]

If you are greasing through the ABS hole, how did you flush the contaminated grease out? If you are not removing the old grease, then the method you use is less effective than the EZ-Lube method.

I never compared it to the EZ-Lube method, you did. The point in greasing them thru the ABS hole is to ensure there is adequate grease in them, it's well known they are short on grease in the first place.

What other easily implemented action would you suggest to frequently monitor the condition of the bearings? Bearings get hot as they fail or need grease. I know, I have seen it.

The same method that is recommended by the manufactures.... visual This is why Dexter, AlKo, etc all state that the EZ-Lube is not a replacement for regular disassembly and inspection, followed by a repack that doesn't involve the zerk fitting. Properly greased and loaded bearings should have no issues at the manufacturers maintenance interval of 12 months or 12K miles, or really even double that time.

Yes bearings can get hot as they fail, but I have also seen them fail without any abnormal heat indications. Lots of heat after they fail thou.

You missed the main point on the free spin kits. The front drive system does not spin and does not wear unless you are in 4WD. Less wear and tear, less maintenance, less parts replacement. And, based on observation of grease condition and bearings, 80,000 miles was a good frequency.

I didn't miss the point, you missed where I said there was not quantifiable benefit for me. For the cost of the kit it simply never provided a return and that's the bottom line. I didn't dislike the kit, it just never paid for itself.

It has worked for me for tens of thousands of miles with no failures and the bearings look good when I inspect, clean and lube the brakes. I have had the same results with my Big Tex 22GN gooseneck trailer. No failures and no bearing inspections. Inspecting for damage does not prevent damage. Effective maintenance equals no unanticipated failures. You and I use different methods and get the same results.

This is where you are missing the point. You're downplaying the manufactures recommended maintenance because something easier has worked for you, great... but that doesn't make it better.

Even if a large number of guys had your experience with EZ-Lube I would still never recommend that as a better maintenance practice. I have seen far more damage come from using that setup to grease the bearings that not using it. One is far less likely to have issues by ignoring the zerk fitting and simply doing the annual maintenance as recommended, or even every other year.

On top of all that since we're talking temperature is that a hub full of grease will run hotter than a hub with a proper level of grease. Timken has information published on the temperature differences and doesn't recommend a full hub, like you get with EZ-Lube. This is another time where it's designed for use on boat trailers and became a marketing gimmick on all others, but hey people fall for marketing gimmicks all the time.

End of the day it's all a fun conversation. If you're not having fun then maybe step back.

I made a comment on what I do and you are the one questioning everything I said but didn't give any backup to what I was doling as wrong.

So keep it going if you want but all I did was tell what I did and it worked towing a RV that is WAYYYY over the 8k axle rating.

I told you what Dexter says, which should be adequate for a Dexter axle., but since we know you ignore their weight ratings why not ignore their maintenance recommendations.

Open up your Dexter manual and it's all in there. The manuals are online if you don't have one.

This is off the product page for the Amsoil we both use and they are the ones that usually give us products to extend intervals.

"Maintain bearing housings one-third to one-half full of grease. Do not over-grease, as excessive heat buildup can result. Supplement standard grease maintenance by periodically cleaning and packing housings with fresh grease on an established maintenance schedule."

Pretty much what Dexter says too.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Oh well I have switched to true Oil Bath seals and 75-90 Severe Gear on my hubs. They run even cooler than the already cool numbers with packed grease hubs.

FYI I am over my 8k but MORryde inspected my axles and they said I am well within their specs even at 17,500# on the axles.

 

[Cummins12V98]

DUPLICATE!!!!!

 

[Matt42]

Wires for electric brakes: If you are installing new wires, be absolutely certain that you are buying tinned, all copper marine wires. The tinning reduces corrosion. All copper means that the wire carries a full load. A lot of so-called trailer wire is copper-coated aluminum. I avoid it. It carries a smaller load due to higher resistance, won't solder well and can corrode more easily.
Bearings: Many new hubs come with Chinese bearings and cups. They may be OK. I always replace them, even new ones, with USA, Japanese or European brands.

 

[endoscott]

On the wire I learned the hard way, the fake "copper" wire in the HF trailer wire kit lasted a year on my utility trailer. It's not copper at all....but the wire from McMaster Carr is the real deal. All of their stuff is top-notch. It's not really expensive either-since the wire harness from them will probably go 10 years compared to one year on the HF crap. When I do the math if initial cost is double, but it lasts 10x as long....well that's much better value.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Go with a quality SO cord with stranded wires

 

[jghflys]

This is where you are missing the point. You're downplaying the manufactures recommended maintenance because something easier has worked for you, great... but that doesn't make it better.

Well run maintenance organizations have gone to predictive maintenance instead of "open and inspect." It is more cost effective and reduces maintenance induced errors. I know because I ran maintenance organizations at power plants for decades.

I have seen far more damage come from using that setup to grease the bearings that not using it.

What business are you in that you have seen all that damage?

On top of all that since we're talking temperature is that a hub full of grease will run hotter than a hub with a proper level of grease.

Millions of electric motor bearings, farm equipment bearings, u joints, pump bearings, ...... all run for years full of grease. So do EZ- lube bearings.

Go ahead and pull your little bearings apart every year, unnecessarily.

 

[Cummins12V98]

 

[GCroyle]

Dexter has a serious amount of documents and videos, you just have to dive in and search.
https://www.dexteraxle.com/Resources/?type=76