More new truck ?

[Turbo Terry]

Well I left the two big holes open like 6x6 x2. Not much difference but some. My garage is 59 f with no heat on about zero out. Went for a drive. Very dark now at 4 pm. Warmed up a bit faster it seemed. But running down the road most I could get was 192 f water temp Warmed up faster by maybe double time. The torque converter ran what seemed like a bit cooler than without. But the big difference was the oil temp went to 199 f and the oil pressure dropped a bit so the motor was working harder a bit so better to have hotter oil than not I would think . Closed the holes solid front now. -14 tonight more testing at sun up about 9:45 am. Shortest day here is December 20-21 about 10am to 3 pm. Suns out clear sky’s moon at night . Coldest night yet here so far in Anchorage this year much colder all around us tonite. We will send some south more later

 

[AH64ID]

You don’t need any of the opening to remain open at those temps and load. I’ll keep 1 or 2 open at +20°, but all 4 are closed below 0°.

 

[JR]

So it is, it's a time delay built into the system. Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe it is a ten minute time window that is legal by the emissions laws to run the engine without DEF at freezing temp.

I don't know, but would guess it may be a little longer than that. Most DEF modules do not have electric heaters working immediately to thaw out frozen DEF. Many have coolant lines circulating through, like this module off of a QSB6.7 and would probably take a little longer than an electric heater. The SS lines wrapped around the module are coolant lines.

 

[Ozymandias]

Mike Wilson could tell us more about it but he is rarely seen here...

 

[Turbo Terry]

Cold fronts very nice. Easy to put on and take off. Truck seems to like it. All holes are closed -13 last night zero now that will be our high for the day Dark again soon we did see the sun for a bit today

 

[gsbrockman]

#ad

 

[sag2]

Well I left the two big holes open like 6x6 x2. Not much difference but some. My garage is 59 f with no heat on about zero out. Went for a drive. Very dark now at 4 pm. Warmed up a bit faster it seemed. But running down the road most I could get was 192 f water temp Warmed up faster by maybe double time. The torque converter ran what seemed like a bit cooler than without. But the big difference was the oil temp went to 199 f and the oil pressure dropped a bit so the motor was working harder a bit so better to have hotter oil than not I would think . Closed the holes solid front now. -14 tonight more testing at sun up about 9:45 am. Shortest day here is December 20-21 about 10am to 3 pm. Suns out clear sky’s moon at night . Coldest night yet here so far in Anchorage this year much colder all around us tonite. We will send some south more later

FYI the oil pressure and oil temperature are not real. Saying they changed is just wishful thinking.

 

[Turbo Terry]

What do you mean the oil gauges aren’t real but the rest are ? Are you psychic are something. My gauges don’t really work . Want my money back

 

[Turbo Terry]

And how do you know this mister wizard

 

[AH64ID]

It’s a well known thing with these trucks since at least 2003, and often earlier with a flash.

There are no oil pressure or temperature transducers on the motor, just a 6 psi switch. The numbers displayed are derived from various inputs and an algorithm.

I don’t recall exactly what year they started using an algorithm but your 2nd Gen may have had a fake pressure reading too as it was implemented during the 24V 2nd Gen era.

 

[NIsaacs]

It’s a well known thing with these trucks since at least 2003, and often earlier with a flash.

There are no oil pressure or temperature transducers on the motor, just a 6 psi switch. The numbers displayed are derived from various inputs and an algorithm.

I don’t recall exactly what year they started using an algorithm but your 2nd Gen may have had a fake pressure reading too as it was implemented during the 24V 2nd Gen era.

FYI the oil pressure and oil temperature are not real. Saying they changed is just wishful thinking.

They may be fake but since that is all we have, I recommend you watch them anyway. Pretty sure they are important just the same. My 3 temps mostly show ambient on an overnight shutdown. Coolant, transmission and oil.

 

[AH64ID]

Certainly watch coolant and trans as they are real, but there is no reason to monitor oil pressure or temp. The only way you will know something is awry is if your oil pressure falls below 6 psi, and that’s really too late.

 

[lpennock]

And how do you know this mister wizard

In addition tot the information that John gave, I have added real oil pressure and oil temperature sensors to my CTS and can tell you that the numbers the EVIC display don't match very well. In addition if they were real sensors there would be a ODB PID that would be able to read the values and there are none. They are fake gauges.

 

[NIsaacs]

They are fake gauges.

The oil pressure changes with oil temp and engine rpm. If I am cruising down the highway and my oil pressure always shows 50 psi then falls to 30 psi, for sure, I will figure something is up. They may be fake to you, but they are not to me. I will assume they are important and will watch them.

 

[AH64ID]

The oil pressure changes with oil temp and engine rpm. If I am cruising down the highway and my oil pressure always shows 50 psi then falls to 30 psi, for sure, I will figure something is up. They may be fake to you, but they are not to me. I will assume they are important and will watch them.

It's an algorithm that uses coolant temp, ambient temp, rpms, etc to create a fake reading. All you know is that you have more than 6 psi, the rest is fake regardless of it moving. So unless it goes below 6 psi it will never show anything else that what it does for a given condition, and even then I believe there is a 30 second delay built into the "check gauges" light for oil pressure... so if you ever get a low oil pressure indication while driving it's probably too late.

On my 05 the only time the OEM gauge was "accurate" was at ~1500 rpms on a cold motor.

Your 01 is also likely fake as they flashed the 2nd gens to become dummy gauges as well.

You would get the same indications if there was no gauge at all, it's that useless.

 

[NIsaacs]

It's an algorithm that uses coolant temp, ambient temp, rpms, etc to create a fake reading.

If it is so fake, why is the oil temp the same as the "real" coolant and transmission temps on a cold start. I know you are just trying to school me here but I ain't buying it. All those fake inputs that it is using must come up with a close reading or it would not move at all. How can you say it is fake if they are the same?

Fake to me, is a Ford badge on a Ram truck.

 

[gsbrockman]

I don’t recall exactly what year they started using an algorithm but your 2nd Gen may have had a fake pressure reading too as it was implemented during the 24V 2nd Gen era.

If I recall.....my nephew had a VP44 truck and it had an actual oil sending unit, as we were able to source one from Cummins at a much lower price than from MoPar. I’m thinking his was a 2000 or 2001...

 

[NIsaacs]

If I recall.....my nephew had a VP44 truck and it had an actual oil sending unit, as we were able to source one from Cummins at a much lower price than from MoPar. I’m thinking his was a 2000 or 2001...

Yes, you are correct, they changed in '02 from a 3 wire to a one wire part way into the '02 year.

 

[AH64ID]

If it is so fake, why is the oil temp the same as the "real" coolant and transmission temps on a cold start. I know you are just trying to school me here but I ain't buying it. All those fake inputs that it is using must come up with a close reading or it would not move at all. How can you say it is fake if they are the same?

Fake to me, is a Ford badge on a Ram truck.

It's fake because it's a programmed number not a real number. It reads the same as ECT on a cold motor because that's what it is programmed to do. The inputs for the algorithm are real, but the output is not... it's really that simple. 1 wire is a switch and 3 wires is a transducer.

It will never let you know there is an issue until the pressure falls below 6 psi.

Sure it might be close (it wasn't on my 05), but that doesn't matter. Heck it could be perfect and still be fake as it's not showing a measured number. The number on your dash is as fake as a Ford badge on a Ram truck, sure they are both pickups with similar capabilities but that's it.

If I recall.....my nephew had a VP44 truck and it had an actual oil sending unit, as we were able to source one from Cummins at a much lower price than from MoPar. I’m thinking his was a 2000 or 2001...

Yes they had actual sending units, but at some point the programming on the truck changed to ignore the pressure signal and just put out a fake number.


This all came about because of too many people taking their trucks in under warranty for oil pressure questions. The Cummins has a huge pressure swing from idle (10-15) to cruise (55-65) and people thought something was wrong with how much the needle moved. It was cheaper to stop the needle from moving and replace the transducer with a switch.

It's just like the voltmeter is a "smoothed" reading on some years too, thou not as fake. i.e. it didn't bounce with the grid heater post-heat despite a 2V actual drop.

 

[bcbender]

The Cummins has a huge pressure swing from idle (10-15) to cruise (55-65) and people thought something was wrong

I could see that.. personally I understand it, but could see how it would trouble someone that does not understand. My V8 powered boat has 40psi cold and 15psi hot, (idle) but runs 60 psi at 4500RPM... no worries but thats how the machine works.