You know all this, I’ll repeat it anyways:
The CTD will pull down to below peak torque fairly well, but it’s just easier to downshift earlier than with a Class 8 on an upgrade. It’s pretty happy with “high” rpm’s given the higher redline.
Find the published peak TQ rpm and look to bringing it back in right above that number.
From there, shift it across a range a little ways above that in hilly terrain. (Find high & low rpm values).
You’ve got a wider power range to work with and it’s pretty much bulletproof given that the Mama’s boys don’t blow them up.
Trying to run 70-mph on an ascent while towing is where that type gets panicky.
Some of the rpm drops are severe by comparison to an 10-Eaton, so it’s in matching road speed to what you can easily use.
Consistent upgrade speed is how to play the game. (4th & Direct is how I look at it). If your combined rig is quite heavy and the grade is sharp & long: use rhe gear in which you can still accelerate.
As the Mama’s boys really don’t know how to plan a descent (GOTTA HAVE AN EB!!!) do some practice without use of an EB (bodybuilder guide states only needed where trailer exceeds 10k) as to road speed/gear choice.
TUSON anti-lock trailer disc brakes plus controller worth more than EB as trailer needs to be kept under better control on a descent. (And in rain, etc). Big trucks have had trailer ABS a long time now. You’ll notice the difference especially with winds on a descent.
“Coordinating” the descent with the big trucks is the thing. Having some available rpm’s to accelerate downslope helps with this. (On a three lane I might move to Lane Two from Lane Three to get a big truck past me then move back again). Trailer disc will give you INSTANT momentum change.
Converting the trailer to I-S (Dexter Torflex or MOR/ryde) when adding ABS disc will give you larger/longer pauses in any given gear while pondering choices about what’s coming behind you (wind-handling). 5’ers are pigs with all that sail area (highest likelihood of upset). CAMBER CHANGES are where leaf-sprung 5’ers suck, especially where winds have them heeled over already.
Leaf-spring has next to no suspension (wheel) travel. I-S will help keep those tires where they belong (and easier ride for trailer contents). Downslope plans stay consistent even with changes to conditions. Brake use isn’t an answer when things get too far gone.
The CTD Cruise Control programming is assertive to the point of being aggressive. It’s good at keeping a constant road speed while towing until you’re in hills that slows other traffic (big trucks, or cars not paying attention). Staying in Direct with terrain changes is easiest (OD not a “strong” gear; MPG change not enormous).
The same big truck planning of avoiding EVER being in a pack works even better with an RV in tow. Get‘em around and gone. Pass only on long straightaways and wait to make the pass as the single vehicle. Etc. You know the drill.
Where 55-65/mph is the speed range used (smartest), gear choice is almost not a consideration. (Becomes sorta rare). I stay below the commercial traffic flow and back down to get them gone ASAP they’re passing.
Get a roof-located permanent antenna mount (BREEDLOVE) for the CB and a dual-final radio (GALAXY 86V) to work out a pass with a fast-moving big truck coming up. I let them know when they get out into the passing lane I’ll back it WAY off.
Cancel cruise whenever into passing lane.
Same for within 75-miles of a city center. “Expect” to have to reach for shifter to maximize engine-braking and stay 2-3/mph below the flow once traffic increases.
RV travel has always been 300-miles or 3 o’clock, whichever comes first. 1962 or 2022, been there & done it . . then thru to now. Least stable vehicle on the road. Plan the stops the day before and execute each leg ALONE . Don’t turn it into a work day.
The CB is a wholly new tool should you choose to be of service. The relaxed traveller with complete data of what he’s passed or heard. (West Mountain DSP ClrSp + a Bandpass filter; amateur gear upgrades).
Shift plans don’t consist of much once that rpm range is chosen. (Getting big trucks around and staying backed down till they’re far ahead and truly GONE is the adjustment).
Worst RV’er on the road is the “big” diesel pickemup on a suspension lift with wholly inappropriate tires pulling a toy hauler at or above the posted limit even in crowded traffic. It’s a standard on AM-19 that those kids in the backseat don’t have a father . . baby daddy is at the wheel.
Lights on (always), an extra (and large) convex pair; maximum-spacing in traffic.
IMO, tires need to state BRIDGESTONE or MICHELIN (Duravis or LTX) on sidewall. BILSTEIN or KONI shocks. Rear anti-roll bar if not present and upgrade front by smallest size change.
Zero steering play (whatever it takes). Required counter-steering is the thing to eliminate.
Even with a brand-new trailer: 4-whl align and bearing service.
Consider a BIG high-mount third brake light that can be seen FAR abaft. (With a motorcycle brake light flasher?).
Conspicuity Tape on rear (maybe sides) with best 3M as per FMVSS.
Get CAT Scale numbers: full fresh water & propane plus gear permanently aboard (). Truck with all persons and gear carried for a trip (or substitutes). TARE and later as usual trip weights. (And truck separately)
Do a sliding tandem weigh (scalemaster must help get tandems onto separate pads). Per axle discrepancies MAY NOT be a problem, but you’ll want to know. (Always travel full fresh water to keep COG at lowest point).
Data also should include recording engine hours vs odometer (average mph), not just fuel burn (FUELLY app makes easy).
Diagnosing problems can’t work without baseline numbers. Towing just makes that harder than before. Get the right start.
A CTD with the mans’ trans is a marriage made in heaven. You’ll love it.
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Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
