Here I am

Any ideas for theft deterrent on trucks with sliding back glass?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

3 Stick Shifter

The Idiots are finally running the Asylum over on the FORD site..

Darkbloodmon

TDR MEMBER
I stopped by Oriley's on my way back from a mobile mechanic job to check for a water pump (decided against their brands) since mine is about it spit bearings and leaking a good bit; me and the two sales reps hit it off shooting **** and talking about cars, trucks, and our shared experiences in the Automotive retail industry. We got on the topic of one of the reps who had a 6.5 Chevy Diesel with an NV4500 but it got stolen from him and hes been fighting in court to get it back for the past six months because he didn't have insurance on it just tags (but that's none of my business).

Point of the story being that the truck was stolen by prying open the back sliding window with a flat head and wiggling through. This on top of the truck wasn't running or starting right because of injection pump issues. So not only did the thief's break into it with minimal damage but figured out how to get it running in a short amount of time and get away.

I was wondering if there were any recommendations out there for deterring theft ( if they want it they want it, the goal is to make it unpractical and difficult) and entrance from the back sliding glass. My first thought was time to get a headache rack and 4th gen mirrors. Then I thought about fabing an interior headache rack and mounting it to the rear seat mounts. Another idea was swapping to a solid one piece pane/ back glass. Lastly I thought about getting a Trunk Monkey but it appears they've been recalled for "tight shiny pants" amongst other things and are no longer available.

Thoughts?
 
Install a headache rack. You may notice on some new trucks the slider window looks like 12"x12", only a trained monkey could get in.

I have noticed that, I looked at mine when I came home and thought that it was pretty large and easily wiggle-able. I'm fairly certain one of my friends around a 130lbs could fit through it no issue.

Any recommended brands or specific designs you would suggest?
 
Is there a channel on the bottom that the panes slide in? Cut you a dowel rod an lay it in the channel. Kinda like a broom handle in a sliding glass door.

You just brought back a nostalgic memory of my child hood and having to remove the back porch lock rod every time to go outside. I know exactly what your talking about, I think there is a channel for it, I'll confirm in the morning.
 
@BigPapa, Did that in another brand truck I had. Used a piece on aluminum angle with one side trimmed down with about 3/8" handle at the outside edge for removal. Used angle due to single pane glass channel. If someone really wants it, they'll get it! I've always had a shut off switch but like the timer/switch idea. That way it'll start but quit running and not restart without switch being in right position! They'll usually leave it as it has now made noise and they don't want to waste more time trying to restart. On the newer trucks, you can turn on the VTA if you have remote start(hood switch connection to ECM). Did mine and it's functions great!
 
I have noticed that, I looked at mine when I came home and thought that it was pretty large and easily wiggle-able. I'm fairly certain one of my friends around a 130lbs could fit through it no issue.

Any recommended brands or specific designs you would suggest?

Not really any recommendations... there's plenty on the internet... black, white, stainless, shiney, flat, tubular, bar, etc. And it gives a rack for carrying long items.
 
Cut you a dowel rod and lay it in the channel. Kinda like a broom handle in a sliding glass door.

I'll be giving this a shot, Thank you for pointing this out. Great idea all around using a rod.

Not really any recommendations... there's plenty on the internet... black, white, stainless, shiney, flat, tubular, bar, etc. And it gives a rack for carrying long items.

I'll start looking then, I just need something simple and stout, nothing with an extended pinky saying "look at me".
 
Hidden switch for the lift pump is the easiest one.
Or a manual shut off valve in the fuel line serves the same purpos.
I've both.

A manual shut off valve has my head clicking, I just installed a new heater core control valve on a family members 98' 4Runner. It seems really doable for a cable pull lever to be hidden inside the cab and routed towards the a valve on the CP3 feed line.

For the lift pump switch, are you referring to an ignition switch (trigger wire). Not allowing the lift pump to turn on even with the key in the run position? I'm not as versed with wiring yet, if you have any write ups you'd recommend from memory I'm all ears. I'll check the archives soon enough though.
 
A manual shut off valve has my head clicking, I just installed a new heater core control valve on a family members 98' 4Runner. It seems really doable for a cable pull lever to be hidden inside the cab and routed towards the a valve on the CP3 feed line.

For the lift pump switch, are you referring to an ignition switch (trigger wire). Not allowing the lift pump to turn on even with the key in the run position? I'm not as versed with wiring yet, if you have any write ups you'd recommend from memory I'm all ears. I'll check the archives soon enough though.

Just put a hidden switch in the clutch pedal circuit. My 2001.5 with auto still had the circuit with a bypass jumper in it. So my aftermarket alarm used that circuit to disable starting when the alarm was set. Alarm module was hidden behind the drivers kick panel.
 
I have a switch in the feed line between ECM and Fuel pump, it's easier to do as the ignition switch only kicks on the ECM. You don't want the whole dash turn dark, just the pump not run.
 
Back
Top