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Valve lash problem push rod to high

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Is 48re transmission cooler directional?

Transmission Service

#4 exhaust push rod seems not to go down. Cannot adjust valve with top dead mark in the right place.
6 0'clock position. At the bottom of the damper. Putting in new injectors and cannot adjust #4 exhaust. Help
 
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I think you will need to give some information about your truck along with some history as well. For example: what previous work has been done to the engine and why, how many miles on the engine, why are injectors being replaced, are you the original owner, etc. Without information, is it hard for members to help you.

- John
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but the crank has two revolutions' for a full fire cycle. Check with another 360* revolution. I replaced my injectors with the engine at TDC in prep for the valve lash adjustment following it; starting from cylinder 1.
 
There are no factory timing marks.

There is a TDC timing mark on the damper. I think the G mentioned is a typo.

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Well, see, this is another instance where my unfamiliarity with the CR’s shows. They also added a locater pin. Earlier models didn’t have that. Sorry, fellows.
 
I remembered marking it when doing my injectors and lash, and when I resealed my timing cover and front main. The Fluid Damper I installed is also conveniently marked.
 
#4 exhaust push rod seems not to go down. Cannot adjust valve with top dead mark in the right place.
6 0'clock position. At the bottom of the damper. Putting in new injectors and cannot adjust #4 exhaust. Help
Yes I had to around another 360 degrees to get the right valves first.
 
FWIW the mark on the side of the damper (first picture) is for checking if the crankshaft vibration damper has slipped on the crank flange due to a worn out rubber isolator... I always checked mine during services but in 200k miles never had an issue. If you do find it has moved and is no longer aligned, a replacement would be in order.

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The two marks you are showing in this last picture, just below the part number on the damper, are to indicate whether or not the damper has slipped within itself from the bonded rubber letting go. This is an inertia damper and is made of an inner and an outer pieces with the rubber in the middle. If the bond breaks then the marks won't line up. If it seems like a push rod is too long it is either not seated correctly in the tappet or you are 180* out on your rotation.
 
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