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Leaking hub seal

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GAmes

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I just pulled my right/rear hub for the 4th time in less than 100k miles. Once again it is leaking. The first time I just replaced the seal. The second time I didn't install it flush to the hub so that it would ride on a new surface. The 3rd time I installed a speedi-sleeve. This is less than 10,000 miles later. The bearings and races do not show any sign of wear even though they are original to the truck. I'm thinking of replacing them anyway but I can't help but wonder if I'm missing something. Is there another reason why the seal won't keep oil out of my brake drum?
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Not sure what I would do in your situation. It seems rather unique. Is it possible to be getting a hot brake situation on that side that could influence the wheel bearing seal life? (I know, this seems like a long shot.)

I wonder if Scot seals are available (self contained oil type) for your application. At least then you would have a static seal on the problem seal wear area location.

- John
 
For lack of a better theory I'm thinking the bearing wear might cause a slightly elliptical rotaion of the hub causing the seal to lose contact with the surface. I know, clutching at straws, but having to replace the rear shoes is getting old.
 
Several different vendors. I think the current one came from Purvis bearings, a local Timken outlet.
 
Several different vendors. I think the current one came from Purvis bearings, a local Timken outlet.
 
Mr Ames, I know this question is probably a no brainer to you, but are you using the FSM torque method on the hub nut? Do you raise the opposite wheel about 8" to get oil from the diff center into the hub before driving after the new seal installation (I know you probably lube the seal / surface when you install it)? Just a thought when nothing else makes sense.
 
Yes, I use the FSM procedure. When the oil level on my Mag-Hytec is between the full marks there is oil in the tubes when the truck is level. No need to jack up one side.

I've also decided to swap sides on the brake drums, just to see if the leak swaps sides also.
 
Very strange. I would probably go the bearing route. I know it's unlikely with a full floating axle, but I would probably check for run-out in the axle while in there. Good luck. Let us know what happens.
 
Here is my 2 cents. I had the exact same problem. Installed seal after seal, and still constant leaks. Finally I found my oil level was too high.
Oil was filling the axle tubes. After lowering the level no more leaks. I have a Mag Hytec cover btw.
I believe the Mag hytec full mark on the stick is too high.
 
I thought about that, but I've had the cover for well over a million miles and the problem is relatively new, plus, it is only one side. A submerged seal shouldn't leak anymore than one that has constant oil flow around it. If you can picture the hub you caan see there would always be a pool in the bottom at the inside bearing regardless of the level in the pumpkin while the truck isn't moving. Centrifugal force while in motion is what lubes the bearing.
 
Had some thing similar happen to my 95, ended up being a carrier bearing on it's way out, not holding the axle in the correct position at all times. i didn't get a howl from it either.
Food for thought.
 
Had some thing similar happen to my 95, ended up being a carrier bearing on it's way out, not holding the axle in the correct position at all times. i didn't get a howl from it either.
Food for thought.

That is definitely a possibility. The axle is the only part of the drivetrain that has never been replaced. I'll have to do some research to see if I have the tools to check it out.

How bad is the seal wear groove in the spindle?

It's just a mark, barely visible. It has a speedi-sleeve from the last seal replacement.
 
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