Leaking hub seal

[mwilson]

Are you lubing the seal lip before install? That has to stretch more to get up over the wear ring.

Is the wear ring straight?

If you elect to try the wear sleeve method again be sure and place a thin coat of RTV to the seal area of the spindle before driving the wear sleeve on.
I’ve been victimized by that before on big rigs as the gear oil can crawl out between the sleeve and spindle, especially if there is a wear groove.

Bearings look ok from the pics….BUT you are up in the “Anything is possible!” category with the kind of mileage on that ol’ girl….

 

[GAmes]

I do lube the seal lip but I don't remember if I put RTV on the spindle. More than likely I used a dab of grease to lube the spindle, that is my norm. I like the wear sleeve leak theory better than the bearing, only because I can easily replace the wear sleeve.
Today I am going to take an oil sample to check on wear metals and check the magnet for big chunks.

 

[NIsaacs]

Had some thing similar happen to my 95, ended up being a carrier bearing on it's way out, not holding the axle in the correct position at all times. i didn't get a howl from it either.
Food for thought.

Was that a 1/2 ton semi float axle? I can't imagine a full float hub being affected by the axle. I can see the oil contamination of a failed bearing taking out all the seals.

 

[Killer223]

Was that a 1/2 ton semi float axle? I can't imagine a full float hub being affected by the axle. I can see the oil contamination of a failed bearing taking out all the seals.

no, i'm not sure what caused the leak to reappear every 5-7K. found a bad carrier bearing, and when that was found rebuild the whole rear axle with new seals, spindles,axles, bearing the whole thing was rebuilt, just the housing was left unchanged. shop said the bad bearing would cause axle vibration and lead to the leaks. how that would be the case on a full floater i'm not sure. But the rebuild of everything fixed the issue.

 

[GAmes]

No slivers of metal on the dipstick magnet, just the normal goo/fuzz. It might be a week before I get the analysis back.

 

[jfmaz]

be sure and place a thin coat of RTV to the seal area of the spindle before driving the wear sleeve on..

Never thought about doing this. Another thing gleaned from here to put in my permanent memory bank.
Now if I could only remember where I put those dang keys.

 

[GAmes]

I buttoned it up today, probably test drive it a couple hundred miles next week. I also RTVd the outside of the seal housing.

 

[GAmes]

Haven't done a test drive but I did get the oil analysis back There is almost 43,000 miles on this oil including a VERY heavy 5th wheel I towed last fall. Iron was 333 ppm double of my last sample (almost 50,000 miles) of 156 but still in the "normal catagory. Aluminum went up to 7 from a 2. Silicon 25, no surprise there since it has been apart a couple times, but still normal. I'm going to change the oil and drive it to OR with the 5er in tow to see the grandkids. Wish me luck.

 

[Bromiley99]

When using a wear sleeve it is very important to use a mirror an look at the seal while installing the hub. It is very easy for the lip of the seal to fold if you just push straight on like normal. I use a mirror with hand and spin the hub with the other to make sure it goes on like it’s supposed too. Timken seals are the easiest to spot the lip folded, skf seals you need good eyes!

 

[Ozymandias]

I would change the bearings, I don't like the look of the rollers in your first pictures. Probably the inner race is bad.

Do you set the bearings with a slight preload? I know from the AAM that they want to have them loose and i don't like that, so I set them by feel, thighs, and i served me well for the last 100K.

 

[GAmes]

I did replace the bearings and races. I set the preload by the book. I also inspected the backside of the seal after it was installed.

 

[GAmes]

A short test drive today, only about 50 miles. I pulled the tires and the brake drum off. I swear those tires get heavier every year, especially when it is around 100 degrees. Not a drop leaked so I think it's good. Sadly, I'll never know what fixed it, but someone who gave me a direction was spot on. Thanks ya'll.

 

[Extreme1]

I would change the bearings, I don't like the look of the rollers in your first pictures. Probably the inner race is bad.

I agree, they looked bad to me too, keep us posted on the results.

 

[GAmes]

I've pulled my 5er from TX to OR and the seal has held. I just can't tell you which of my actions fixed it.

 

[Solar1]

While just checking the brake shoes on both rear hubs, i found that both sides are leaking, it does not appear to be the brake cylinders as those seals are dry.
Thankfully no fluid on the shoes.

I seemed to remember doing one of the seals about ten years ago.
Would it be normal for both hubs to leak simultaneously?
4x4 limited slip 2500, dana 60 460k miles

 

[GAmes]

I don't think it would be unheard of. I once had both low beam filaments fail at the same time. It took me two days of troubleshooting to realize I just needed new bulbs.

 

[Ozymandias]

Check the axle breather for free flow, both sides leaking at the very same time isn't very likely a seal problem.

 

[Solar1]

you mention the breather.....got me thinking.

i had done major work; bed off, front fenders of etc, and i remember the rear breather was hanging low toward the ground for many months while in my shop over the winter. not driven.

I wonder if the line filled with fluid, and not that it is back mounted and being driven, it still has fluid in it...(not breathing)?
it shouldn't be, considering the breather is at the top of axle...?


I will check it tomorrow.
Thanks

 

[Ozymandias]

They tend to collect dust and together with the oil vapor that builds up a gunk inside like concrete.

 

[Solar1]

thanks, i never thought about checking that line.
good to check either way