07 Dodge Mega need some help various issues

[Bobby A]

Glad to see you made it over here from ram fourms, as you have found out the guys here are very knowledgeable that is why I wanted you to come here for help...

YES, thank you for your recommendation, I am blown away with all the knowledge. Not sure how much of this I can retain, but I will try.

 

[06 Dodge]

YES, thank you for your recommendation, I am blown away with all the knowledge. Not sure how much of this I can retain, but I will try.

Glad I saw your post to get you to where you could receive the help from a great bunch of people... It takes time to learn this stuff but soon you it will become much easier for you to retain some of it...

 

[xcc_rider]

You can either tilt the bed up (not a great option since you have a hitch in the bed) or drop the tank to access the top of the tank.

 

[Bobby A]

You can either tilt the bed up (not a great option since you have a hitch in the bed) or drop the tank to access the top of the tank.

Well, looks like another trip to the dealership, I trust your guys information, I just want my truck fixed so evertime I go out on a trip I can enjoy it rather than worry about when the next check engine light is gonna haunt me.

 

[xcc_rider]

This isn't something the dealer has to do.
Any competent shop can check the screen for you and put a vent hose on the tank vents for you for a lot less than a dealership charges.

You just need to tell then what you're looking for.

FYI, goggle ram diesel tank vent mod for more info on it.
It's basically attaches hoses and a filter placed higher than the tank vents since Ram decided it was a good idea to put the tank vents in a bowl on top of the tank and any water, mud or dirt would find its way into the tank and mix with the fuel.

2009 on trucks came from the factory with the kit installed.

You can buy a kit from dodge or fab one yourself for about $10 like I did.

 

[Ozymandias]

At that age and unsure about pump, I'd drop in a new in-tank unit. They are not to expensive and will serve you well another 200K miles.
Do not let someone talk you into an external fuel lift pump, they are all less reliable then the new in-tank pumps from Ram.

 

[Bobby A]

At that age and unsure about pump, I'd drop in a new in-tank unit. They are not to expensive and will serve you well another 200K miles.
Do not let someone talk you into an external fuel lift pump, they are all less reliable then the new in-tank pumps from Ram.

O.k. Just so I am getting this strait, are you saying have someone remove the stock fuel pump strainer and have a new in tank one installed ??

 

[Bobby A]

Just so I am understanding your awesome help, it looks like there is 4 things you guys want me to do.
1- check when and or clean the EGR system every 67,500 miles
2- Get a alfaOBD code reader
3- Have the dealer check the engine control module and see if its running the latest software version.
4- Drop fuel tank and clean fuel pump strainer because that has been a common problem.
On another note, how do I print this thread so I don't have to write this all down ??
Thank you guys,

 

[Jim W]

I would not do anything to the fuel tank yet. I have almost as many miles on my truck as you have. I just make sure that I change my fuel filters at the proper interval, and very rarely let the tank run below 1/4 full. The main reason is the CP3 fuel pump needs the fuel to cool the pump and lubricate the pistons in the pump. That is why excess fuel is returned to the tank to mix with the cooler fuel in the tank before the fuel is returned to the CP3 again.

My experience with piston pumps is from 20 years of design work in hydraulics. All piston pumps need to be lubricated and cooled slightly, that is why the median being used is returned to the tank.

I have not read of many issues with the 6.7L trucks and their in-tank fuel lift pump and strainer. It is not like the earlier 5.9L trucks. Why spend the $$$ if you do not need to. Take the money you have budgeted for this questionable repair and save it.

Just my $0.02 and humble opinion.

On your other question you may need to cut and paste this into word document and print from there.

 

[Bobby A]

I would not do anything to the fuel tank yet. I have almost as many miles on my truck as you have. I just make sure that I change my fuel filters at the proper interval, and very rarely let the tank run below 1/4 full. The main reason is the CP3 fuel pump needs the fuel to cool the pump and lubricate the pistons in the pump. That is why excess fuel is returned to the tank to mix with the cooler fuel in the tank before the fuel is returned to the CP3 again.

My experience with piston pumps is from 20 years of design work in hydraulics. All piston pumps need to be lubricated and cooled slightly, that is why the median being used is returned to the tank.

I have not read of many issues with the 6.7L trucks and their in-tank fuel lift pump and strainer. It is not like the earlier 5.9L trucks. Why spend the $$$ if you do not need to. Take the money you have budgeted for this questionable repair and save it.

Just my $0.02 and humble opinion.

On your other question you may need to cut and paste this into word document and print from there.

Thanks Jim W,
I just went through my 3 inch book of repairs made on this truck, I have 155K miles on it. The dealership told me to change the fuel filter once a year. I was just told by a Diesdel mechanic to change it every time I do an oil change (around 5K miles with the oil that I use. Getting back to my book, and the list of things you guys on this forum told me to check. In 2013 on a trip the CEL came on, I took it to the dealership out of state and the paper works says that the codes were P1011 and P2563. They replaced the turbocharger and fuel lift pump. At 146K CEL came on again, the dealer paper works says that they replaced the EGR valve. This truck has had a history of CEL starting at 700 miles on the truck. I don't even want to start adding up all the money I have put into this truck, it would just make me mad. I do love my truck but don't love all the repairs made and dollars spent.

 

[06 Dodge]

Thanks Jim W,
I just went through my 3 inch book of repairs made on this truck, I have 155K miles on it. The dealership told me to change the fuel filter once a year. I was just told by a Diesdel mechanic to change it every time I do an oil change (around 5K miles with the oil that I use. Getting back to my book, and the list of things you guys on this forum told me to check. In 2013 on a trip the CEL came on, I took it to the dealership out of state and the paper works says that the codes were P1011 and P2563. They replaced the turbocharger and fuel lift pump. At 146K CEL came on again, the dealer paper works says that they replaced the EGR valve. This truck has had a history of CEL starting at 700 miles on the truck. I don't even want to start adding up all the money I have put into this truck, it would just make me mad. I do love my truck but don't love all the repairs made and dollars spent.

Being soot is the enemy for the EGR (along with short drives) you may want to look into using a Cetane additive something like this: Opti Lube Boost fuel additive. I am using Opti Lube in my 2022 to help boost Cetane and reduce soot. I get mine at Amazon for $28 a quart, it treats 640 gallons of diesel... Good Lucky in your quest to fix all of your problems...

Charles

 

[xcc_rider]

I'm not against changing the fuel filter more often but it's recommended at 15k miles and every 5k is a bit excessive. 10k is fine and I did mine at 15k as suggested until I put some aftermarket filters on.

According to your book the dealer already replaced the fuel pump (lift pump) in 2013 so you're good there.

I also change my oil at 5k but only because that's all I put on it in a year.

I would suggest you carry a spare fuel filter on long trips. I read a lot of posts regarding bad fuel and a spare could get you back on the road again.

 

[Bobby A]

Good Idea on the spare fuel filter, I welcome all suggestions, and you guys on this forum have been awesome in my short time hear. I don't drive short distances, I usually only drive my truck if we are pulling the 5th wheel or going on a trip more than 20 miles on the freeway. I do use a product called Diesel clean (the one in the gray container). Also, when driving on the freeway for long distances and you pull into a rest area for a few minutes are you suppose to turn off the truck or leave it running to cool the turbo ?? Thank you

 

[Ozymandias]

After just a normal drive, say 50% load or less, you can always shut it down.
If you have run it hard, up a grade or something the like, let it idle for 2-3 minutes.
The owners manual has achapter over this topic.
Excessive idling is also bad for the engines longevity.

 

[Jim W]

Bobby A,
I have found over time with an EGT gauge being used on a 6.7L engine. When stock you could never ever get below 400F (usually around 450F) if you let the truck idle all day long. So, when pulling my 5er on the highway for two or three hours before entering a rest stop the EGT'S were usually around 1100F, slowing down to enter the rest stop and driving along most access roads to park the truck. The turbo would cool down by itself to around 450F, by the time I parked the truck. I would let the truck idle for a couple of minutes as I walked around the 5er to check the trailer tire temperatures (IR heat gun). I would than shut the truck off. I now have almost 145,000 miles on the original turbo. still running strong.

 

[AH64ID]

While there is about a foot different in the location of the probes I find my 5.9 and 6.7 to be very similar in post-turbo EGT’s while driving empty, towing, and while idling. The 6.7 runs a little cooler, but the probe for EGT 1 is the further downstream one.

I prefer a post-turbo pyro for cool down purposes as it lets you know when the turbo is cool. On my 5.9 with pre and post probes it wasn’t uncommon for post to be 100-200° hotter than pre while idling to cool down. It takes a few minutes by my 6.7 will get under 350°, and sometimes under 300°.

What I have found to take a long time to cool off is the coolant. It will often still be 200-210° after 5 minutes of idling after a hot and heavy tow. The trans also heats up to 170° to 175° during the idle cool down. I will often idle it at 1100 rpms to keep fluids moving a bit faster if I’ve been heavy or it’s hot out.

 

[Bobby A]

Bobby A,
I have found over time with an EGT gauge being used on a 6.7L engine. When stock you could never ever get below 400F (usually around 450F) if you let the truck idle all day long. So, when pulling my 5er on the highway for two or three hours before entering a rest stop the EGT'S were usually around 1100F, slowing down to enter the rest stop and driving along most access roads to park the truck. The turbo would cool down by itself to around 450F, by the time I parked the truck. I would let the truck idle for a couple of minutes as I walked around the 5er to check the trailer tire temperatures (IR heat gun). I would than shut the truck off. I now have almost 145,000 miles on the original turbo. still running strong.

Well, what you all are saying is just about what I do, If not pulling the RV, I do shut the engine off, but when pulling, I will pull into the rest area, walk around the 5th wheel and check tires and such and then come back into the truck and shut her down. It seems everyone is pretty much on the same page with this issue. Glad I have been doing it right all along.

 

[06 Dodge]

Good Idea on the spare fuel filter, I welcome all suggestions, and you guys on this forum have been awesome in my short time hear. I don't drive short distances, I usually only drive my truck if we are pulling the 5th wheel or going on a trip more than 20 miles on the freeway. I do use a product called Diesel clean (the one in the gray container). Also, when driving on the freeway for long distances and you pull into a rest area for a few minutes are you suppose to turn off the truck or leave it running to cool the turbo ?? Thank you

I gave up on Diesel Clean, I never did see a reduction in soot when using it in my 2006, my neighbor said it made a difference as in he had fewer EGR issues...

 

[Bobby A]

I gave up on Diesel Clean, I never did see a reduction in soot when using it in my 2006, my neighbor said it made a difference as in he had fewer EGR issues...

Well, my brother in law uses it and told me about it so I started useing it a few years back. Im not sure if it really works or not, but if you guys know for sure another product works better, I am all ears. Thank you

 

[Ozymandias]

Well, for me it is an easy decision, Diesel Kleen is approved by Cummins - as the only Product on the market.
And yes, I use it every other month or so to keep the smoke down - and it does.