Free Spin hub conversion kits????

[BK]

So did some searching, read some posts, but no real after action reports and follow up.

For my 99 2500 4x4 , I need rotors again.

Last time I did front rotors, I also needed front bearings, used Timkens. They seemed to be ok still, but I need rotors again.
(with the total cost back then of doing, right after I was done, I was sorry I had not invested into a conversion kit, would have been only a few hundred more)

If I'm at it, rather replace the Timkens with another set of Timkens.

OR do a free spin hub conversion.

I trust Geno's, so I would lean towards what they are selling.
I also respect Dynatrac.

But my big wish for these kits, when investing in the kit, is one that would include a slip on rotor in the design, not the captured rotor behind the hub design.

I don't see a bullet for either the SpynTec or others that say they eliminate the captured rotor design.

Any one use a CAD lock out with one of these kits?
With the age of the truck, others in my area, the CADs are failing and need replacing.
So with Hubs, rather just do a CAD lock out kit.

Really would appreciate the input and schooling on these kits.
TIA
Bob

 

[bcbender]

Unless you need the free spin kit, I could never justify the cost of it.. Never going to make it up in gained fuel economy, and Timken unit bearings have treated me well, never had an issue in 100k replacements i did. (Rock Auto for $250 for the pair). IMHO the free spin kit just lightens your wallet as the bearing today are not what they cost 20y ago.

 

[BK]

Unless you need the free spin kit, I could never justify the cost of it.. Never going to make it up in gained fuel economy, and Timken unit bearings have treated me well, never had an issue in 100k replacements i did. (Rock Auto for $250 for the pair). IMHO the free spin kit just lightens your wallet as the bearing today are not what they cost 20y ago.

I hear ya... 10 years ago, if I had did it then, I'd would have made some little dent in the fuel payback , maybe, but that's one of the negatives now, with a 22yo truck. How much longer before the fenders fall off. Door are in pretty bad shape. But lol - mileage is comparatively low.. 130K of off road and local use, and some highway towing for camping for a couple of dozen trips.. which it does no more. wont trust it for a long trip. So local stop and go, local highway only, and off road.

But the Rotor placement change is a HUGE plus for me, with all the around town / stop and go / heavy traffic, to be able to slap on rotors at will.
So , a kit that changes to rotors from captive to slip on, is a lot of points column for me.

I've been holding off changing the rotors, now they are just above min spec thickness, and should be done.
And yea, the Timkens have been good to me too, and maynot really need replacement right now, but its the old while I'm in there. They have out lasted the OEMs at this point.

 

[Ozymandias]

Non of the kits work on trucks that are equipped with ABS. You're going to loose that if you fit these.

 

[BK]

Non of the kits work on trucks that are equipped with ABS. You're going to loose that if you fit these.

Yup, tnx, do understand that, and don't have ABS on the front, rear only.

 

[Ozymandias]

I'd stick to the unit bearings, less maintenance and you can replace them several times till you are equal price wise.

And I wouldn't change them until they develop a problem.
They can last anywhere from 50K to 300K.

And last but not least - after the first time rusted change, and the new ones fitted with silver past they are exchanged within half an hour.

 

[NIsaacs]

But my big wish for these kits, when investing in the kit, is one that would include a slip on rotor in the design, not the captured rotor behind the hub design.

I don't see a bullet for either the SpynTec or others that say they eliminate the captured rotor design.

It appears the Spyntec is outboard rotor design.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/sast-s9499-spyntec-dodge-locking-hub/hub-conversion

 

[Eds2006Dodge]

I put a dynatrac kit in my 2006 Ram 3500 5 years ago. I don't regret it one bit. Gained 2 mpg and a lot of peace of mind , reason I say this is I saw what was left underneath a similar truck like mine when the u-joint failed in the front driveshaft of his 2005 dodge ram 2500 4x4. It was carnage underneath that truck.

Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[BK]

I'd stick to the unit bearings, less maintenance and you can replace them several times till you are equal price wise.

And I wouldn't change them until they develop a problem.
They can last anywhere from 50K to 300K.

And last but not least - after the first time rusted change, and the new ones fitted with silver past they are exchanged within half an hour.

LOL -- yea, I was thorough with the anti-seize when I did the change out, I looked like the tin man. stuff gets everywhere.

It appears the Spyntec is outboard rotor design.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/sast-s9499-spyntec-dodge-locking-hub/hub-conversion

I had started looking into it a few years ago, when I first wanted to change out the rotors. IIRC, I called spyntec, and the photo and desc are stock, but they don't move the rotor, still captured. I was hoping to hear from someone that did it on their 99 or 98 to be sure. Phone techs can make mistakes. IIRC, 2001, first year Ram changed to a slip on rotor??

I put a dynatrac kit in my 2006 Ram 3500 5 years ago. I don't regret it one bit. Gained 2 mpg and a lot of peace of mind , reason I say this is I saw what was left underneath a similar truck like mine when the u-joint failed in the front driveshaft of his 2005 dodge ram 2500 4x4. It was carnage underneath that truck.

Just my 2 cents worth.

I hear ya, mine gets ridden hard and put away wet, despite the low mileage compared to the age. I go through tires and front pads quickly. And before everyone jumps on me.. I do adjust up the rear drums twice year. I go through rears in about 50K.

 

[bcbender]

Wow.... I drove my 04 (NV5600) for 10 y and over 100k miles and never put a set of brake pads on... they were what it came with when I bought it. EX brake saved me the hassle.

 

[BK]

Wow.... I drove my 04 (NV5600) for 10 y and over 100k miles and never put a set of brake pads on... they were what it came with when I bought it. EX brake saved me the hassle.

I'm on the crowded island of long, home of a traffic light at every corner and red lollipop farms on every street. It can take 3-4 hrs to go 60miles from my home to Montauk mid-day. The Expressway, Long Island Expressway, is a LIE. But over the years (more so the last 7-10 since getting rid of the TT), my '99 gets very little highway. In the past just for a some out of state camping vacations , and a few times packed to the gills with equipment for a job out of town. We mostly camped on the outer beaches, about 7 miles out on the shore. With the cap on the bed and the "stuff" normally in the truck and bed , she's a bit porky. Toasted the Auto at 75K. The tight re-built auto and T/C for towing doesn't help braking. But the trans is now soo much better for getting the power to do the work (No E-brake on the auto). I've heard folks in the flat midwest, towing on the open flat country go over 150K and more on their OG autos. Not heard of here.

 

[2Farr]

So did some searching, read some posts, but no real after action reports and follow up.

For my 99 2500 4x4 , I need rotors again.

Last time I did front rotors, I also needed front bearings, used Timkens. They seemed to be ok still, but I need rotors again.
(with the total cost back then of doing, right after I was done, I was sorry I had not invested into a conversion kit, would have been only a few hundred more)

If I'm at it, rather replace the Timkens with another set of Timkens.

OR do a free spin hub conversion.

I trust Geno's, so I would lean towards what they are selling.
I also respect Dynatrac.

But my big wish for these kits, when investing in the kit, is one that would include a slip on rotor in the design, not the captured rotor behind the hub design.

I don't see a bullet for either the SpynTec or others that say they eliminate the captured rotor design.

Any one use a CAD lock out with one of these kits?
With the age of the truck, others in my area, the CADs are failing and need replacing.
So with Hubs, rather just do a CAD lock out kit.

Really would appreciate the input and schooling on these kits.
TIA
Bob

I installed the spyntec hubs on my 99 3500. Since I wanted better brakes also I installed a axle from a 2002 3500. The axle housing is larger and the axle shafts are bigger than the pre 2000. I carry a extra set of inner and outer bearings and races and seals. A set costs under $100.00 and can be changed on the side of the road in less than a hour. The two piston caliper upgrade was a good thing since the single piston caliper has some dragging issues. My truck has the cad system on it and still works if I turn the hubs. If I want to back my 5th wheel in low range its no problem. As for better MPG have not seen it yet. I did notice that the steering felt lighter with the hubs . The spyntec system uses dana 70 hubs so they are strong. For pics and more info I wrote a thread a while ago about "locking hub conversion"

 

[BK]

I installed the spyntec hubs on my 99 3500. Since I wanted better brakes also I installed a axle from a 2002 3500. The axle housing is larger and the axle shafts are bigger than the pre 2000. I carry a extra set of inner and outer bearings and races and seals. A set costs under $100.00 and can be changed on the side of the road in less than a hour. The two piston caliper upgrade was a good thing since the single piston caliper has some dragging issues. My truck has the cad system on it and still works if I turn the hubs. If I want to back my 5th wheel in low range its no problem. As for better MPG have not seen it yet. I did notice that the steering felt lighter with the hubs . The spyntec system uses dana 70 hubs so they are strong. For pics and more info I wrote a thread a while ago about "locking hub conversion"

tnx, so you did a spyntec on a 2002, which already had slip on rotors, and I assume the spyntec kept that feature on the 2002 axle?
Yea, the caliper on the 99 is far from a positive.
I'll see if I can find it under your listings.
But still want to find out what happens on a 99 axle with the spyntec. If I was blessed with a 2002 axle dropping in my lap, that would be a great option (with the right gears).
Any heavy duty solid front axle around here carries a big price tag unless it's a real odd ball no one wants.

 

[SAndreasen]

I put a dynatrac kit in my 2006 Ram 3500 5 years ago. I don't regret it one bit. Gained 2 mpg and a lot of peace of mind , reason I say this is I saw what was left underneath a similar truck like mine when the u-joint failed in the front driveshaft of his 2005 dodge ram 2500 4x4. It was carnage underneath that truck.

Just my 2 cents worth.

drive shaft on a gen two doesn’t spin all the time anyway

 

[BK]

drive shaft on a gen two doesn’t spin all the time anyway

But the axle shafts do, and when one of those UJ's go, there's no getting home w/o surgery, since you can't stop the tire/wheel from spinning the axle shafts that are whipping around in the C. Hubs you can just open up the home and go home in 2wd. I've been wheeling since '80 , and always had locking hubs and manual TC till my 99 Ram (but for a 88 Bronco II my wife had, oh yea and later the least fav, a pathfinder)

 

[Regcabguy]

Wow.... I drove my 04 (NV5600) for 10 y and over 100k miles and never put a set of brake pads on... they were what it came with when I bought it. EX brake saved me the hassle.

The 3rd gens are a different animal. The 2nd gen autos had inadequate rear pads and drums and relied on the under-engineered rear drums and pads . Mine ate rotors too. The Dana 80's had decent stopping power. When i got my 3rd it was with a sigh of relief. Finally good brakes. Concerning hubs if it created an outboard rotor I'd jump on it.

 

[BK]

The 3rd gens are a different animal. The 2nd gen autos had inadequate rear pads and drums and relied on the under-engineered rear drums and pads . Mine ate rotors too. The Dana 80's had decent stopping power. When i got my 3rd it was with a sigh of relief. Finally good brakes. Concerning hubs if it created an outboard rotor I'd jump on it.

What he said ..... completely...

 

[SAndreasen]

The 3rd gens are a different animal. The 2nd gen autos had inadequate rear pads and drums and relied on the under-engineered rear drums and pads . Mine ate rotors too. The Dana 80's had decent stopping power. When i got my 3rd it was with a sigh of relief. Finally good brakes. Concerning hubs if it created an outboard rotor I'd jump on it.

How you eating rotors I’ve never replaced one on the front ever ? Did have a caliper lock up on the rear of my 01 and ruined a rotor because I was to lazy to pm it like I should have

 

[Matt42]

Yup, tnx, do understand that, and don't have ABS on the front, rear only.

Same with my 1996. Rear ABS only. The few times that the rear ABS engages, it catches me by surprise. The rear ABS engaged even less frequently before I replaced the rear wheel cylinders for a 1 ton Chevy. So engagement went from almost never to rare.

That said, I am also looking at a locking hub conversion. The $2000 cost, though, makes me think more than twice before I place the order. The Spyntec device looks like it's well made. I'm concerned about the length of the hub outside beyond the wheel, though. I drive some rocky two-tracks that are sidewall and wheel whackers. Is the hub susceptible to damage?

The time I drove a 1976 full size Cherokee back from Colorado in front wheel drive is always on my mind. The Detroit style U-Joint ion the rear drive shaft had failed. So I like to have some sort of idler capability.

 

[2Farr]

These are pics of my two trucks. The first is my 98 12V 2500 with the spyntec srw hubs on it. Had to modify the hub cap. The second is my 99 3500 drw with the 2002 front axle. Interesting fact I purchased the 2002 front axle, had it shipped to my house for $750.00. When I was done with the 99 I removed I sold it on ebay for $765.00. Another fact the post 2000 dana 60 axles are bigger than the pree 2000 axles. These are the axle seals 2002 on the left third pic. The housing is a little larger also.