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Steering Stabilizer

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This rubber bushing is in there for a reason, to reduce NVH in the steering wheel assembly.
It has no influence on DW, DW is tires fighting each other after a bump.
I'm 99% sure your alignment is not dead Zero toe.

We'll see, I wish you all the best to get that issue resolved.
 
This rubber bushing is in there for a reason, to reduce NVH in the steering wheel assembly.
It has no influence on DW, DW is tires fighting each other after a bump.
I'm 99% sure your alignment is not dead Zero toe.

We'll see, I wish you all the best to get that issue resolved.

Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH) - had to look that one up! I'll hold off on installing those grommets until i have the new steering box in. and I'll have the alignment checked again. What you say makes sense. As in all things it too can get worn out. which would mean replacing the rubber bushing.

Makes you wonder for those that have installed the grommets if they've noticed more NVH.
 
I've 250k Miles on it, lots of offroad, that bushing is still fine. Replaced the lower steering shaft because of a worn out u-joint last year and checked the whole assembly then, all good.

That bushing can move with the engine off, working the steering wheel. As soon as the engine runs, there is almost no movement in it turning the wheel.

With the grommets you have a solid metal connection from the wheels all the way up to the steering wheel, you'll probably feel everything then in your fingers.
 
you'll probably feel everything then in your fingers.

It's a solid axle 4x4 Diesel Pickup, not some F Sport Lexus Sedan. You're going to feel vibrations and road feedback with either small rubber steering shaft bushings or metal inserts. The problem is death wobble.

I agree the death wobble isn't going to come from the steering shaft itself. But the EMF Aluminum Bushings will tighten up the steering.
 
Will when you are done throwing parts and money at the front end. Just do me a favor and have a very good repair shop check your ball joints on your truck. As I said I have had solid axle 4X4 trucks since 1973 and whenever I experience Death Wobble on any vehicle that I have owned with a solid axle. It always was the ball joints and or track linkage that was bad nothing else. And since you already replace the track linkage, I would look at the ball joints.
One other item you did not say if you are using stock tires or not, are you?
 
Will when you are done throwing parts and money at the front end. Just do me a favor and have a very good repair shop check your ball joints on your truck. As I said I have had solid axle 4X4 trucks since 1973 and whenever I experience Death Wobble on any vehicle that I have owned with a solid axle. It always was the ball joints and or track linkage that was bad nothing else. And since you already replace the track linkage, I would look at the ball joints.
One other item you did not say if you are using stock tires or not, are you?

Thanks @Jim W

Getting the truck alignment checked Friday AM. I would have the alignment shop double check the ball joints.
and tires are stock size - Michelin's.
 
I own a newish Wrangler. These are notorious, for the Death Wobble. Replacing one thing might stop it, temporarily. But, for the vehicle to get to the point of a Death Wobble, many things are worn out. Replacing all bushings, ball joints, and stabilizer, is the "Right Way" to fix the problem. Also, large tires, and serious off-roading will contribute to the parts wearing out.
 
Thanks @Jim W

Getting the truck alignment checked Friday AM. I would have the alignment shop double check the ball joints.
and tires are stock size - Michelin's.

Get the print-out please.
We had it happen previously here that shops agreed to use the Thuren-specs but out in the shop then used the programmed factory specs anyway.
 
I have upgraded every part of my front end but when I got DW it turned out to be the Carli track bar bolts were the wrong size. Once replaced no more DW.
 
ok shop said ball joints have a good bit of play in them, so no alignment done. How hard of a job is this? 5 hours of labor @ 175 an hour to replace them.
 
ok shop said ball joints have a good bit of play in them, so no alignment done. How hard of a job is this? 5 hours of labor @ 175 an hour to replace them.


I have friends that do it themselves, all the time. I believe one did it on his truck, in a couple of hours. He ordered the parts, bought a tool from Harbor Freight and saved a ton of money. I haven't done it myself, but others say it is really easy. Just watch a few videos on YouTube, and within 30 minutes, you should be an expert. ;)
 
I have friends that do it themselves, all the time. I believe one did it on his truck, in a couple of hours. He ordered the parts, bought a tool from Harbor Freight and saved a ton of money. I haven't done it myself, but others say it is really easy. Just watch a few videos on YouTube, and within 30 minutes, you should be an expert. ;)

Only takes 7:44 minutes @Rowdy Dalton

 
I've put balljoints in my truck. I wouldn't necessarily call it an easy job and I had the right tools. If you have some mechanical knowledge and the right tools go for it. If your vehicle has been exposed to road salts you may want to start soaking bolts ahead of time.
 
I installed my EMF joints without issue, they have a good video for their product installation. It's a right tool kind of job, not something you want to rig and figure out.

You might as well check you're wheel bearings and axle U joints while there.
 
5 hours for both sides seems reasonable, its a lot of assemble and disassemble of parts through the process.
Get Carli, Dynatrac or EMF whichever you can afford.
 
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