'14-'22 Ram 2500 Power Hop Damper Kit.

[NIsaacs]

This was brought to my attention in another thread by a member.

(https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/mega-cab-2500-air-suspension.273315/#post-2708155)

So I did some research and it sounds interesting. It appears it was installed on Power Wagons and Cummins/G56 trucks. Geno's has the kit for install on the 2500 4x4. What do you guys think? Anyone add it? My truck, '21/4x4 has all the prep, so it would be an easy install.

There is an old thread on C/F that was long running with some saying it helped and some saying it didn't.

This is what Diesel Power Products say about the kit. Their kit is spendy so I just posted Geno's link.

"Reduce axle wrap and wheel hop on your 2500 with this simple to install, bolt-on kit featuring a Bilstein damper.

Beginning with the 2014 model years, Ram abandoned use of a traditional leaf spring out back in favor of coil springs exclusively on 2500 models. This shocked many, but was done in an effort to improve the ride. On certain applications, such as Power Wagons and G56 manual transmission equipped Cummins, it was evident that wheel hop was an issue. In order to correct this, Ram installed what is known as a Power Hop Damper on the rear axle that connects to the top of the differential on one end and a crossmember under the bed at the other. Fortunately, for those that don't have a factory installed damper, all of the provisions are there, you just need the components and bolt it in.

We've put together this kit that includes all of the components you'll need to literally bolt this right in, including the necessary hardware."

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ram-cummins-mopar-power-hop-damper-kit-phopkit/bilstein-rear

4x2 bracket

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4x4 Bracket

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Power Wagon bracket

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[Signal73]

Axle wrap is taken care of by the 4 control arms. Their opening statement is kinda weak.

 

[Tuesdak]

Ram abandoned use of a traditional leaf spring out back in favor of coil springs exclusively on 2500 models.

Ah-HAHAHAHA!

Not like leaf springs didn't have wheel hop. Try backing an RV uphill and leaving rubber marks as the rear end with near full rated weight wheel hops. My rear leaf spring 2003 with the NV5600 was fine going forward, but, hopped like crazy in reverse.

I put Glacier Diesel Power ladder bars on it. Problem solved. Did it before it broke something like it was clearly warning me it was gonna do.

 

[AH64ID]

Axle wrap is taken care of by the 4 control arms. Their opening statement is kinda weak.

The 5 link on the 2500 in notorious for wheel hop.

 

[NIsaacs]

Axle wrap is taken care of by the 4 control arms. Their opening statement is kinda weak.

That used to be my understanding, but in sand, mine will hop as bad as my '01. I think part of it is the control arm bushings are soft and can compress under stress. For some reason, Ram uses the damper on some trucks so I am thinking it might help some...

I also think it might work even better on a leaf spring truck. MY '01 will buck bad forward or back with a big load on launch. Stopping on the street at an intersection with an up hill pull, you can't feather the clutch, just gotta go. In reverse, when you can't just let it go, it is worse. The '21 with the auto is fine both ways, forward or back.

 

[slowmover]

MoPar had a kit just like this in the 1970s for pickups. Some racers added it to quarter-mile cars.

One looked at it as insurance against breaking leaf-spring gear as much as an exact wheel hop stop.

Mounted along top of forward half of leaf from axle u-bolt to front leaf eye attachment

Still $35?

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[slowmover]

https://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Suspension/RAS/RAS3516-T.html

Another “fix”.
But same idea although “adjustable”.

I’d keep the adjustable part to a minimum. Bed squat, etc, not actually a problem versus the articulation which keeps tires planted.

My year of CTD had no rear anti-roll bar. Smallest size of that installed (and required upsize of front) kept tires on ground “better”.

The old MoPar kit is what I’d rather have on the front of the spring: a hydraulic shock to slow it down.

— For those who dislike a traffic intersection uphill from a standing start: better route, or being a better operator (time the light).

— Backing into a “hole” at home: better to improve the parking spot.

You ain’t lived till you’ve had a 24,000-lb oilfield tractor start bucking on ya. Jez a little ‘ol kingpin the only thing between you and the 74,000-lb trailer “above” you . . . .



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[AEdelheit]

That used to be my understanding, but in sand, mine will hop as bad as my '01. I think part of it is the control arm bushings are soft and can compress under stress. For some reason, Ram uses the damper on some trucks so I am thinking it might help some...

I also think it might work even better on a leaf spring truck. MY '01 will buck bad forward or back with a big load on launch. Stopping on the street at an intersection with an up hill pull, you can't feather the clutch, just gotta go. In reverse, when you can't just let it go, it is worse. The '21 with the auto is fine both ways, forward or back.

While the softer bushings are part of it the geometry of the links is horrendous and that is the root cause, this power hop damper is a poor band aid at best. The only way to truly take care of axle wrap / wheel hop is a kit like Thurens rear control arm kit that moves the lower arm down below the axle, anything else is piling band aids on a poor design. There are aftermarket rear control arms with solid bushings that help a little but still have axle wrap and put a ton of stain on the mounts.

 

[Signal73]

That used to be my understanding, but in sand, mine will hop as bad as my '01. I think part of it is the control arm bushings are soft and can compress under stress. For some reason, Ram uses the damper on some trucks so I am thinking it might help some...

I also think it might work even better on a leaf spring truck. MY '01 will buck bad forward or back with a big load on launch. Stopping on the street at an intersection with an up hill pull, you can't feather the clutch, just gotta go. In reverse, when you can't just let it go, it is worse. The '21 with the auto is fine both ways, forward or back.

Interesting, I guess I have yet to experience it.

 

[NIsaacs]

Apples and oranges, but big trucks have used a solid torque arm forever, on tandem axles. It is a necessary part of the rear suspension to locate the axles. I think I will rear up and order one from Geno's Pretty sure it won't help in sand but that's rare and I don't think anything will help, that's just sand. It is reasonably priced so why not. It will be my first Bilstein product, ever, so now I can hang out with the big guys

Big truck solid torque arm.

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[slowmover]

Apples and oranges, but big trucks have used a solid torque arm forever, on tandem axles. It is a necessary part of the rear suspension to locate the axles. I think I will rear up and order one from Geno's Pretty sure it won't help in sand but that's rare and I don't think anything will help, that's just sand. It is reasonably priced so why not. It will be my first Bilstein product, ever, so now I can hang out with the big guys

Big truck solid torque arm.

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Called torque rod or strut rod when one is in the shop. Those bushings get old and the Drives wind up doing some of the steering.

Panhard Rod was offered by Super Steer a few years back (called it Rear Trac Bar), but now out of production (few recognized it’s value is my guess). Called Univeral, also fit Tundra.

They won’t stop wheel hop under worst conditions as I tried to illustrate above. One can jam up even an extra-heavy Peterbilt with correct tires, etc.

The addition is one I missed out on purchasing. Air bags are the mistake shown in the pic as they worsen the condition. The anti-roll bar helps, but it’s the Panhard keeps the axle centered. IMO, the pairing is an ideal for an on-road only pickup.

“Nice” with leaf spring, “best” with multi-link.

Wheel tramp ranks high for the, “Oh S#%^ I’ve damaged the suspension”, as a truck driver.


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[NIsaacs]

View attachment 136070

“Nice” with leaf spring, “best” with multi-link.

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I would think "required" would better suit for multi link. I have always wanted one on my '01 leaf spring truck...

Note the wide stance of the shock placement and the forward angle on both, I like that.

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[MConyers]

Haven't driven/used my '22 much; but will keep the kit in mind, thanks for adding!

2016 truck, with the damper, didn't have wheel hop issues like I experienced with my 2011 under the same driving/trailering conditions. These were both G56 trucks and I had added GDP bars, like mentioned above, on the 2011 to resolve the issue.

 

[Tuesdak]

— Backing into a “hole” at home: better to improve the parking spot.

Break things at tire shop with a slight hill backing RV to get tire work, NO CHOICE at some US Forrest Service Campgrounds that are booked out 6 months in advance... Fun with leveling the RV after parking too.

Yeah, need to take action to fix or adjust the pickup if it's a constant problem. As mine was fine going forward I did not want to adjust the pinion angle that can be part of the overall problem.

 

[slowmover]

Break things at tire shop with a slight hill backing RV to get tire work, NO CHOICE at some US Forrest Service Campgrounds that are booked out 6 months in advance... Fun with leveling the RV after parking too.

Yeah, need to take action to fix or adjust the pickup if it's a constant problem. As mine was fine going forward I did not want to adjust the pinion angle that can be part of the overall problem.

And some RVs as to size & weight are bad choices. Unlike a stockman needing to get yearlings to market, RV is wholly optional use.

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[NIsaacs]

Not sure why I am working in the snow, it's not like I am broke down Installed the damper today, pretty straight forward. The kit was backordered for a bit, but Geno's made up for it with a baggie of candy

 

[slowmover]

Not sure why I am working in the snow, it's not like I am broke down Installed the damper today, pretty straight forward. The kit was backordered for a bit, but Geno's made up for it with a baggie of candy

View attachment 136113 View attachment 136114 View attachment 136115

Seeing that snow build-up reminds me I carry a Harbor Freight $15 extending brush to clear it on big truck and trailer:
https://www.harborfreight.com/instant-on-off-telescoping-flow-thru-brush-67658.html

I use a hickory tire thumper to rap ice buildups.
View attachment 136118

Both just as good on pickup.

I use the brush in summer with bug problem. Hit it with a dollop of Dawn and dip in wash bucket. Just swirl, no pressure. Let sit without drying (or re-do). Finish by using truck stop squeegee.

Had it (5) years now. Goes in the side box.

An 18” tire thumper (with wear marks, right?) could also have other uses.

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[NIsaacs]

Doesn't seem to be much interest here on this mod, however, if the 3500 guys (at least the '19+) were, my guess is the axle housing has the boss casting also. The frame crossmember mount...maybe. Anyone look at their axles/frame?

 

[AH64ID]

Doesn't seem to be much interest here on this mod, however, if the 3500 guys (at least the '19+) were, my guess is the axle housing has the boss casting also. The frame crossmember mount...maybe. Anyone look at their axles/frame?

I happen to be driving the truck today, thanks to a dead battery in my TJ, and will take a peek when the sun comes up.

 

[AH64ID]

The forward bracket is not present on my truck.