Reccomendation Help

[Monroefiredog1]

I had to replace my oil pan on my 06 CTD. I purchased a Big Iron Oil Pan because I did not want to do this job but one time. However, the oil drain plug will not stop leaking, so I will have to change it again!!Anybody know of a good diesel shop you'd trust with your truck in the Griffin GA areal? I normally try to do all of my own work myself 'cause nobody treats your stuff like you, but this oil pan was a PITA to change! Even if I wanted to I just don't have the time to do it again myself. I also have torn my rotor cuff and probally not able to do it again at this time. Any ideas on where to take it would be great!

 

[AEdelheit]

Im assuming you have inspected the drain plug o ring and surface closely to figure out why its leaking? Seems like you should not have to replace the whole pan for a drain plug leak, just curious if something else is going on that would be an easy fix.

 

[petersonj]

I don't have any repair shop recommendation, but I agree with @AEdelheit - I would think that one could figure out exactly why the drain plug is leaking and repair it. Is there a flaw in the oil pan drain plug itself? Or the threaded receiver? Or how the receiver is welded into the pan? What type of seal is used - o-ring, washer, etc.? What specifically is leaking?

- John

 

[Monroefiredog1]

I don't have any repair shop recommendation, but I agree with @AEdelheit - I would think that one could figure out exactly why the drain plug is leaking and repair it. Is there a flaw in the oil pan drain plug itself? Or the threaded receiver? Or how the receiver is welded into the pan? What type of seal is used - o-ring, washer, etc.? What specifically is leaking?

- John

Hi AE and Petersonj,
Thank you both for your input. The drain plug was steady dripping after I poured the oil in. I drained it again and tried my old plug, which I knew was not leaking. Sure enough it leaked also, so I used a thick Oring on it and it stopped the leak, until it got hot, then it started leaking again. I have been in contact with the pan manfacture and we will see what they are willing to do. I paid good money for a upgraded oil pan, and I should not have to fix a leak that should not have been there in the first place. It was a real PITA to get that pan out!! I am not looking forward to removing it again.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

When you do get the leak sorted out I recommend using a Fumoto drain valve instead of the plug if the pan threads are the same as OEM. No mess oil changes or stripped pan threads.

 

[Crunch]

When you do get the leak sorted out I recommend using a Fumoto drain valve instead of the plug if the pan threads are the same as OEM. No mess oil changes or stripped pan threads.

The concept for that type of drain valve is great. But I've always had concerns about anything hanging down from the oil pan. It seems like a bouncing rock or a piece of hard debris could bounce up and snap it off. Or you could be driving in a field and roll over a rock or something that is sticking out of the ground. Then your oil drains out while you are driving and you don't know it till it's too late.

 

[bigceltic]

The concept for that type of drain valve is great. But I've always had concerns about anything hanging down from the oil pan. It seems like a bouncing rock or a piece of hard debris could bounce up and snap it off. Or you could be driving in a field and roll over a rock or something that is sticking out of the ground. Then your oil drains out while you are driving and you don't know it till it's too late.

I used this one (https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ez-dp-18mmpla-dg/drain-valves) as there is nothing that protrudes from the pan, and changing oil is very simple, can direct the used oil flow right into my collection container with no spills.

 

[Topzide]

the @bigceltic recommended is the one I have on my truck. It's a great setup as nothing hangs down and you use a hose that pushes up on drain valve. A whole lot less of a mess as you could change hose out to a longer one. The stock length on the hose works fine for me. Plus there is a cap to keep debris out. Thinking of getting some for the rest of my vehicles.

 

[Rowdy Dalton]

I've been using Fumoto drain plugs for around 20 years. Zero issues off road. Just use the short one.

 

[Matt42]

I installed a Fumoto valve on my second generation today. It ended up oriented so the release handle might possible snag on vegetation and then might possibly release. Has anyone ever seen this?

 

[Rowdy Dalton]

I installed a Fumoto valve on my second generation today. It ended up oriented so the release handle might possible snag on vegetation and then might possibly release. Has anyone ever seen this?

Usually the lever is oriented up, when closed. You might want to check. Also there are some Fumoto valves that can be adjusted and rotated some. Post a pick of your model, and its model number if you can.

 

[jray]

I was recently on Amazon looking for the Fumoto locking clip. I found the plastic clip on Amazons site and saw they were charging ten dollars for it.

After reading the comments section, I read where someone had used a zip-tie in place of the locking clip. Only problem was the tie needed to be cut off during the next oil change.

If you’re worried that the release lever might trip and dump oil, one might consider zip-ties as a safety measure.

 

[Crunch]

If you’re worried that the release lever might trip and dump oil, one might consider zip-ties as a safety measure.

That's putting a lot of faith in a zip tie, brother. When it works, it works. But when it fails, it opens you up to disaster. I drive shrimp for a friend who uses thousands of zip ties in his operation. They tend to get brittle and break when exposed to things like sunlight, heat, etc. Doesn't mean that the lever will necessarily shift, but it would still be something I would check on a very regular basis just for peace of mind. If you are considering a zip tie, why not go with a paper clip instead? It's cheap and they come in different thicknesses and sizes, and they are still fairly easy to remove.

 

[jray]

That's putting a lot of faith in a zip tie, brother. When it works, it works. But when it fails, it opens you up to disaster. I drive shrimp for a friend who uses thousands of zip ties in his operation. They tend to get brittle and break when exposed to things like sunlight, heat, etc. Doesn't mean that the lever will necessarily shift, but it would still be something I would check on a very regular basis just for peace of mind. If you are considering a zip tie, why not go with a paper clip instead? It's cheap and they come in different thicknesses and sizes, and they are still fairly easy to remove.

I don’t think you have a Fumoto or understand the purpose of the Fumoto clip or a Zip-Tie. It’s back up to the spring loaded lever. Fumoto supplies a plastic clip. It gets brittle and also breaks.

By the way, I’ve used other quick drain valves that have no secondary security measure. They have proven reliable.

 

[Topzide]

I would be more inclined to drill small hole in the lever that would accept safety wire to hold the lever from moving if worried about it moving. I think that option would be better than a zip tie. JM2C on the matter. I use the other type with a drain hose kept in the truck tool box and another in tool box at home.

 

[Ozymandias]

If you don't trust it like it comes - don't buy it, don't install it.
It's as simple as that.
There are the Femco Drains that don't come with all these worries.

I don't get the point to buy something that I don't trust from the very beginning and instead try to do some bandaid to it.

 

[Jim W]

I have been using a Fumoto drain valve since my second oil change on my 2008 truck, I installed the valve in mid-summer of 2008. I could not stand the oil bath you get when draining three gallons of oil. when the drain plug is removed. I have been off roading with my truck and never ever had the valve open up. The valve itself extends down approximately a one inch or so, the front axle pumpkin for the differential will be damaged before the valve is ever opened or damaged.

Whenever I drain the oil from the engine, I need to push the lever and then rotate the lever to allow the valve to drain.

I am not saying it couldn't happen, but I would bet that it is at least one in a million odds that the valve will be opened by debris on the forest floor. I bet it is more likely for you to cross thread the drain plug over time than for the valve to open.

Just my $0.02

 

[Crunch]

I don’t think you have a Fumoto or understand the purpose of the Fumoto clip or a Zip-Tie. It’s back up to the spring loaded lever. Fumoto supplies a plastic clip. It gets brittle and also breaks.

That's true. I've never seen a Fumoto. But I've seen a lot of zip ties, and I wouldn't trust one for anything critical, especially something as critical as keeping the oil in the crankcase. Heck, I don't even trust zip ties to hold the hidden, spare key for my truck that is hidden in a place that shall not be named. I would trust the Fumoto itself more than I would trust the plastic clip or a zip tie.

 

[Ozymandias]

No problems with Zip ties if bought the right ones for the given application.
They last for decades.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

Just for reference im using the same Fumoto drain valve on my '91 Accord which hugs the ground in comparison to these trucks, no safety clip, no problem. They offer lower profile designed valves aswell.

Unless you are using your truck as a grader offroad I really wouldn't worry about the valve opening, else just don't buy it and stick with the factory plug.