Topzide
TDR MEMBER
Just had to replace my actuator on my 2014 with 165k and almost 5k hours combined. Sucks to have to do at this time of year and without a garage/shop to do the work in!
On the upside of things, the City Diesel actuator is a well designed replacement for our trucks! Very well done machining on the gear case along with straight forward info on the whole process. Truck cleared the CEL light on start up! On thing One thing I can recommend is since you need to drain coolant, replace your radiator hoses also. I had already had them to replace the next time the coolant needed to be flushed out which would've been next fall. I had gotten some aluminum Y's to put in mine since mine is the dual radiator setup. Also got all new t-bolt stainless clamps. I know the newer Y's don't have those issues anymore, but wanted to add some "bling" to the engine compartment.
Haven't had a long drive yet with the new actuator but looking forward to it! Will update with any info about any difference noticed of both acceleration and EB.
The install wasn't terrible. The removal was a bear! One allen head stripped out! On the 3500's with the shock tower being in the way,
, drilling a hole was the best advice given from TDR article in #114 & #115. In the spring, I'll Tig weld up the hole. Probably wouldn't be and issue, but since I've got a scratch start Tig setup, might as well patch it up while doing other welding that's planned for the warmer weather. 50's not 30's with wind! Other PIA was with die grinder cleaning up the surface of the turbo. Tight quarters for sure!
Hat's off to City for offering an option that doesn't need to be calibrated, just plug and play! If you get the dreaded codes of U0010C or the P0003A, just pony up and get it on order and plan on replacement! Genos also through in the 5mm allen bit needed for the removal and install!
On the upside of things, the City Diesel actuator is a well designed replacement for our trucks! Very well done machining on the gear case along with straight forward info on the whole process. Truck cleared the CEL light on start up! On thing One thing I can recommend is since you need to drain coolant, replace your radiator hoses also. I had already had them to replace the next time the coolant needed to be flushed out which would've been next fall. I had gotten some aluminum Y's to put in mine since mine is the dual radiator setup. Also got all new t-bolt stainless clamps. I know the newer Y's don't have those issues anymore, but wanted to add some "bling" to the engine compartment.
Haven't had a long drive yet with the new actuator but looking forward to it! Will update with any info about any difference noticed of both acceleration and EB.
The install wasn't terrible. The removal was a bear! One allen head stripped out! On the 3500's with the shock tower being in the way,

Hat's off to City for offering an option that doesn't need to be calibrated, just plug and play! If you get the dreaded codes of U0010C or the P0003A, just pony up and get it on order and plan on replacement! Genos also through in the 5mm allen bit needed for the removal and install!