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WHICH AFTERMARKET HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY

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Need insight into part number #68078059AA

Need Help! Front Turn Signal Access???

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Sadly not, needs a resistor.
But, it can also be the connector that isn't doing right.
I remember that with the TYC lights even with a normal incandescent bulb the hyper flash occurred.
Changing the connector back to the factory one solved the problem there.

That lamp out feature is really really picky on our trucks.

Gen4 are great, there you can switch in the FCM any bulb to LED, disable the feature completely.

Thanks Ozy! Do you see any reason that Alpha Rex could not build in the necessary resistor? I went back and looked at the Just Diesel video and while he includes a video of the emergency lights properly sequencing unless I missed it I do not see any video of the turn signals only.
 
I can only guess that they have not the hands-on experience with the vehicles yet a a relatively young company.
The programming of the trucks changed so often, they maybe had an 03 truck for their testing and everything was spotless but an 04 and 05 are different from the doftware side.

Didn't you hear back from them yet?
 
No response from my emails to Alpha Rex or Just Diesels? I'll try calling them tomorrow. I have a crew here replacing my AC units and it is a little crazy around here right now.
 
From all the various wiring diagrams I've seen for these trucks, I think it is safe to say that all 3rd generation Rams have a FCM that directly drives the headlights, brake lights (except Center High Mounted Stop Lamp) and turn signal lights, which are the only lights that will trigger a "Lamp Out" warning. I was unable to determine exactly how the FCMs in our trucks actually implement the lamp out determination, but one very common way is by balancing current flowing through two bulb filaments.

The controller likely compares the currents between two different bulbs, for example, the current drawn by the left front turn signal bulb with that drawn by the left rear bulb. If the current through both bulbs is the same (regardless of specific level of current) the system would do nothing. If, however, the current drawn by one is much greater than the current drawn by the other, it might signal a bulb being out. This test is much simpler to implement than determining an absolute current level and comparing it to a reference because the actual level of current does not matter regardless of voltage level. Since the voltage in our trucks varies dynamically, the specific level of current flowing through a bulb would vary from time to time, but at any given voltage the currents being compared (left vs. right; front vs. rear) would still match. Additionally, if comparing actual current, each different bulb system would have to have its own reference value (e.g., expected high beam current, expected stop lamp current, etc.), whereas by comparing the two currents, no reference values at all are required.

I could be wrong, but I believe that the 3rd generation Dodge Rams use current balancing. The following statement from the '04 FSM reinforces my belief:

Each time the cluster receives a lamp out indicator lamp-on message from the FCM indicating that an inoperative headlamp (low or high beam), turn signal lamp, or brake lamp (excluding Center High Mounted Stop Lamp [CHMSL]) circuit has been detected, the lamp out indicator is illuminated.​

Note that each of these monitored circuits are "paired," either left to right (brakes, excluding the CHMSL; headlamps) or front to back (front and rear turn signal lamps), and in their factory condition each of these lights consist of a single filament driven directly by the FCM. (Note that while a 3157NA is specified for the front park/turn signal and a 3057 for the rear tail/turn signal, the turn signal filaments of these two bulbs are 27 watts and 26.9 watts, respectively, so they still nevertheless "balance.")

Whew! All that for my next suggestion.

Have you ever considered using LED 3057 bulbs for your rear tail/turn signal lamps? I don't guarantee it would work but it seems to me it might be worth a try.
 
From all the various wiring diagrams I've seen for these trucks, I think it is safe to say that all 3rd generation Rams have a FCM that directly drives the headlights, brake lights (except Center High Mounted Stop Lamp) and turn signal lights, which are the only lights that will trigger a "Lamp Out" warning. I was unable to determine exactly how the FCMs in our trucks actually implement the lamp out determination, but one very common way is by balancing current flowing through two bulb filaments.

The controller likely compares the currents between two different bulbs, for example, the current drawn by the left front turn signal bulb with that drawn by the left rear bulb. If the current through both bulbs is the same (regardless of specific level of current) the system would do nothing. If, however, the current drawn by one is much greater than the current drawn by the other, it might signal a bulb being out. This test is much simpler to implement than determining an absolute current level and comparing it to a reference because the actual level of current does not matter regardless of voltage level. Since the voltage in our trucks varies dynamically, the specific level of current flowing through a bulb would vary from time to time, but at any given voltage the currents being compared (left vs. right; front vs. rear) would still match. Additionally, if comparing actual current, each different bulb system would have to have its own reference value (e.g., expected high beam current, expected stop lamp current, etc.), whereas by comparing the two currents, no reference values at all are required.

I could be wrong, but I believe that the 3rd generation Dodge Rams use current balancing. The following statement from the '04 FSM reinforces my belief:

Each time the cluster receives a lamp out indicator lamp-on message from the FCM indicating that an inoperative headlamp (low or high beam), turn signal lamp, or brake lamp (excluding Center High Mounted Stop Lamp [CHMSL]) circuit has been detected, the lamp out indicator is illuminated.​

Note that each of these monitored circuits are "paired," either left to right (brakes, excluding the CHMSL; headlamps) or front to back (front and rear turn signal lamps), and in their factory condition each of these lights consist of a single filament driven directly by the FCM. (Note that while a 3157NA is specified for the front park/turn signal and a 3057 for the rear tail/turn signal, the turn signal filaments of these two bulbs are 27 watts and 26.9 watts, respectively, so they still nevertheless "balance.")

Whew! All that for my next suggestion.

Have you ever considered using LED 3057 bulbs for your rear tail/turn signal lamps? I don't guarantee it would work but it seems to me it might be worth a try.

Hmmm! Very interesting. You may very well be on to something. I need to disclose additional facts that may be relevant to your comments. I replaced my stock bed with a flatbed and in the process replaced the rear tail lights with LED tail lights. There are no resistors on the rear tail lights to my knowledge. The young fella at Just Diesels responded and assured me no hyper flash on the Alpha Rex Nova's on his 2006 Dodge. I did get a response from Alpha Rex but just that "technical support" would contact me. Still waiting. But to your point it would seem that I do have an imbalance between the front turn signals (assuming they have a resistor built in) and my rear tail lights that likely have no resistors. I'm assuming that the front and rear turn signals are on the same circuit? Since the hyper flash is occurring both front and rear, I'm guessing that the lack of resistors on the rear tail lights is actually the cause of the hyper flash, not the new Alpha Rex headlights.

I note that Alpha Rex also has rear tail lights for the 2006 Dodge and in the photos it appears they do have a module that likely houses a resistor. I will call them tomorrow to discuss. If you Google this hyper flash issue you will get a lot of information regarding resistors to resolve hyper flash. However, I only found one thread on the Cummins Forum for a 2006 Dodge discussing the issue but unfortunately no resolution. I'm going to reach out to the company that installed my flatbed to discuss this issue and get more details on the rear LED tail lights (including type of bulb) that were installed on my truck. Since my rear tail lights are generic maybe I can find a compatible LED tail light. Otherwise, it might be back to incandescent rear tail lights.
 
None of the monitored items listed above share a circuit beyond the FCM. In fact, there is a dedicated, individual wire directly from the FCM to each of the left headlamp low beam, left headlamp high beam, right headlamp low beam, right headlamp high beam, left front turn signal, right front turn signal, left rear turn signal, right rear turn signal, left stop lamp and right stop lamp filaments, with no interposing fuses or relays. The other filaments for the CHMSL and the park/tail filaments, some even in the same bulbs as the turn and stop filaments, are driven by a mix of different circuits through fuses 15, 24, 32 and 34, none of which are controlled by the FCM. Quite convoluted, indeed.
 
Headlight depot has a good quality brand for the stock type head lights

Cant remember the brands I did a bunch of research on the different manufactures, I think "Depot" brand what dodge dealers, auto body repair use and others sell for replacement. But 'Depot' your paying more for the name. I would get get any of those goofy looking bling bling, custom, smoked, fake projector look, led hallow bling types they are the junkyer ones
 
So no way for Auto Engenuity to change the monitored rate for the turn signals? If not is there any other solution? Or am I stuck?
I've been thinking about this some more. If the system detects the "defective bulb or wiring circuit" by comparing the front and rear current, it would be a simple matter to measure the currents drawn by the fronts and the rears and then add resistors to one or the other to make them match.

Measure the driving voltage and then place an ammeter into the circuit and see what you have. Record the current drawn at each corner and calculate the resistor value needed. (Note, you'll need an ammeter capable of reading three or more amps; either that or use a shunt.)
 
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I've been thinking about this some more. If the system detects the "defective bulb or wiring circuit" by comparing the front and rear current, it would be a simple matter to measure the currents drawn by the fronts and the rears and then add resistors to one or the other to make them match.

Measure the driving voltage and then place an ammeter into the circuit and see what you have. Record the current drawn at each corner and calculate the resistor value needed. (Note, you'll need an ammeter capable of reading three or more amps; either that or use a shunt.)

I took my truck in to Drake Equipment (where I got my flatbed) and spoke to their technician and he proposed a couple solutions. First was to add resistors to the rear lights. Second was to add another stop, tail and turn (STT) light to each side of the rear of the bed. The existing LED's are STT plus backup lights but are mounted behind expanded metal at the rear of the bed to protect them and therefore harder to see. The additional STT's would be flush mounted on the rear of the bed to provide additional light for STT and therefore safer. Apparently the theory is that the ECM/FCM will now see sufficient draw from that circuit.

I spoke to the technician at Alpha Rex and also sent them video of the hyper flash front and rear as well as video of the rear lights and how they are mounted and wired. They suggested adding two of their resistors but rather than add them to the rear lights add them to the resistor wires on the Alpha Rex headlights. Alpha Rex believes that the front and rear lights on my truck are on the same circuit. I guess we will find out! If that doesn't work we will move the resistors to the rear. BTW, so far great customer service from Alpha Rex. They are sending two of their resistors free of charge.

I will check with the SIL to see if mine or his meter read three or more amps. I have a Sperry DM 6450. Not sure what the SIL has.
 
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