NV5600 vs G56

[AH64ID]

The OP was only interested in the 5.9 trucks so I didn't research any 6.7's or 4th gens.

Or the towing charts have an error.

I do recommend he upgrade to the 6.7 trucks and get the factory exhaust brake.

View attachment 138659

I only mentioned 4th gens as evidence to rule out looking for multiple axle ratios in a 3rd Gen.

It’s a brochure error. Lots of 2006 3500’s with a G56.

https://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/BuildSheetServlet?vin=3D7LX39C76G191742

 

[NIsaacs]

It’s a brochure error. Lots of 2006 3500’s with a G56.

Yes, appears so.

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/par...tra2=&filter=(E=ETH;T=DEG;M=SLT Quad Cab 4WD)

 

[CVR222NV]

Yes, appears so.

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-trans-6-speed~52104715ad.html?vin=&make=Dodge&model=Ram 3500&year=2006&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(E=ETH;T=DEG;M=SLT Quad Cab 4WD)

I ordered my 3500 truck new with the G56 and SRW in 3.73 so definitely an error.

 

[geardaddy]

I think that either transmission is a good choice; however, I can only share my personal experience with the NV5600. I have currently logged 380,000 miles on the truck. The transmission is original with a rear seal replacement being the only repair through its life. One replacement clutch at 297,000 miles - replaced with stock clutch - 355:1 gears.

I don't tow all of the time, but there are times when I tow a lot. Since July, I have towed a load of pavers for seven 220 mile one-way trips across five 5,000 ft mountain passes each trip. Each load is 20,000 lbs combined weight (scaled). I use sixth gear all of the time, if sixth gear will easily hold the hill, I use it. I have made many local trips with the dump trailer, as well this summer. Shifting gears on hills (up or down) is smooth, but I do make a point of matching engine rpms to road speed during shifts.

As of yet, I have not heard or felt anything abnormal with the transmission. All synchronizers are working as they should.

As far as your question about bucking in reverse, I have never had that issue. I don't think bucking in reverse would be a transmission related issue - maybe contaminated clutch facing, or a ceramic disc, or possibly extremely worn rear suspension could cause the issue.

- John

Bucking in reverse, Ceramic clutch will buck (feels like wheel hop or axle wrap) like crazy, especially when backng a heavy trailer. i took my ceramic clutch back out...my company was a New venture distributer and remanufacturer (before i retired) and we would about this.

 

[Gearclash]

Bucking in reverse is a total driveline ratio reduction problem mainly. My 99 will buck really violently in reverse if put against a heavy load -- in Hi range. Drop to 4 Lo and no bucking at all.

 

[Tuesdak]

Do one buck more than the other going in reverse.

My 2003 2WD 3500 NV5600 would buck in reverse to the point of axle hop, leaving twin rubber patches on dry asphalt, with nearly 2,000 Lbs of the 5th wheel on the back tires. A slight incline going up at the tire shop in reverse with and for the 5th wheel's new tires was the worst. I completely let off the clutch so it slipping was not an issue: no difference. To move took enough clutch to hop or you sat in one place slipping the clutch. It didn't hop going forward so I didn't want to mess with the real problem of the pinion angle to the driveshaft. I put some ladder bars on it and that helped. Yes, this much hop was going to break, twist, bend, sheer off, something.

The tire shop just re-did their bay entrance so you can pull across the bays now without having to back a RV/trailer in. About Damn Time!

 

[Ozymandias]

My 2003 2WD 3500 NV5600 would buck in reverse to the point of axle hop, leaving twin rubber patches on dry asphalt, with nearly 2,000 Lbs of the 5th wheel on the back tires. A slight incline going up at the tire shop in reverse with and for the 5th wheel's new tires was the worst. I completely let off the clutch so it slipping was not an issue: no difference. To move took enough clutch to hop or you sat in one place slipping the clutch. It didn't hop going forward so I didn't want to mess with the real problem of the pinion angle to the driveshaft. I put some ladder bars on it and that helped. Yes, this much hop was going to break, twist, bend, sheer off, something.

The tire shop just re-did their bay entrance so you can pull across the bays now without having to back a RV/trailer in. About Damn Time!

Like said, my Auto does exactly same. Bucks as crazy backing up into a campsite or such. Putting it into low range - no bucking at all.