What dully 20 in wheels for 5500

[brillmtb1]

Looking to perhaps go 5500 for camper and want to dump stock 19.5 and go to 20 for more tire flexibility as some have done.

Looking at rim choices I only see rims rated at 3K right now. Anyone done this and find nice rims rated higher.

Thanks

 

[AH64ID]

Did a quick search and found some American Racing wheels at 3500/lbs a piece, but dang… stupid expensive.

 

[brillmtb1]

Thanks for looking. I was hoping to find 4k to match 4k AT tires i have now then one rear flat and i can still hobble out

also need to have kids digging holes in my backyard in reno to find gold or silver to buy a new 5500. Way too expensive

then the question is whats the market for my 3509 2017 with 80k on it. Limited trim to help offset some of the cost

 

[AH64ID]

With a 7K front axle rating and 13.5K rear axle rating 3500lbs a wheel is adequate for the 5500.

There are companies like stazworks that make wheels too.

I’ve read there are potential legal width, 102”, with the larger/wider aftermarket dually wheels on 4500/5500’s.

 

[NIsaacs]

Instead of buying a 5500, then spend thousands on derating it, why not get a 3500 cab/chassis. Pretty sure it will do what you want.

 

[AH64ID]

Instead of buying a 5500, then spend thousands on derating it, why not get a 3500 cab/chassis. Pretty sure it will do what you want.

Why would what he mentioned derate it? 3500lbs/tire meets all of the OEM axle specs for 4500/5500.

It doesn't make sense to me to get a 5500 and go away from 19.5's for hauling heavy, but it won't derate it if done properly.

 

[NIsaacs]

Why would what he mentioned derate it? 3500lbs/tire meets all of the OEM axle specs for 4500/5500.

It might meet the specs if the right wheels and tires are found, but it will be derated from oem commercial grade tires and wheels.

My main point is cost. The OP has spent thousands on his SRW with no improvement.

It sounds like he wants a 5500 but not really.

 

[AH64ID]

It might meet the specs if the right wheels and tires are found, but it will be derated from oem commercial grade tires and wheels.

It will degrade the performance, but it will not derate it.

 

[Ozymandias]

Thanks for looking. I was hoping to find 4k to match 4k AT tires i have now then one rear flat and i can still hobble out

You can always "hobble" out as the weight rating of a tire is for maximum speed, maximum temperature and maximum load - al three combined! They don't just pop away because of an overload situation alone.

 

[User113]

Looking to perhaps go 5500 for camper and want to dump stock 19.5 and go to 20 for more tire flexibility as some have done.

Looking at rim choices I only see rims rated at 3K right now. Anyone done this and find nice rims rated higher.

Thanks

Are you wanting to stay with the DRWs of the 5500, or are you looking to transition to SRWs? Check out the two piece beadlock aluminum wheels that Buckstop uses for their SRW conversions. Doesn't state the wheel capacity, but they're putting 20" tires on them that are rated at 6,780 lbs. They optionally have steel wheels for the application, too.

When I win the lottery I'm going to buy a 5500 and outfit it like that. But I don't know when that's going to happen as I don't play the lottery...!

 

[Ozymandias]

Excuse me - these 20" Tires are Semi Tires, and the Rims also, you can't put any other Tire on these Rims then the ones they sell them with. MICHELIN XZL 335/80-R20.
The Rim is a Semi Rim, the Rim flange is the same as on a 19.5 Rim.

For sure it is a great combination for an Overland Vehicle that wants to go all over the planet, but not good for going down the interstate. These XZL tires have very bad on road manors as they were designed primarily for the military Offroad use. They don't like wet roads, and are barely drivable in Snow and Ice.

I've run this combination for a couple years on my Bremach Truck 20 years back.

The mentioned Conti MPT81 is the direct and only alternative to the XZL but lacking a good track record therefor most owners tend to get the Michelin.

 

[User113]

But it is a cool idea. I would probably skip the Michelin Z-force and go with the Continental MPT81 instead.

There's also Stockton Wheel Service that makes custom wheels, they advertise that they "can build you any type of steel wheel." They also advertise that that sell "all brands of aftermarket wheels." If it's out there, they seem to be the people to ask.

 

[brillmtb1]

Ok, I started a firestorm. So to clarify. I am moving to what has become more popular. A commerial rig that meets both legal and good handling requirements that I think is best. The price difference, and yes these trucks are too expensive but I am older and perhaps I cant take it with me so why not damit, is not that different. I loaded up a CC 3500, 4500, 5500 and there is little difference. Called stable camper owner who built a 5500 and posed all the questions that cover a lot and more of what you all have above. The response was going from single wheel to dully was an improvement and going to the 5500 was 2x that. We both agreed that the ride quality empty sucks and that the difference between the 4500 and 5500 likely not something important or dramatic. So why the 5500. OK. If I resale which may be real down the road the commercial market probably better having the 5500 (like adding the PTO for 300 when I wont use it but insurance for resale). Secondly, having dually great, I dont need the full loading of 19.5 but the tire selection for 20s much better, can air down, etc. I can save the 19.5 for resale. The payload is what I need to reduce and control sway caused by tall campers AND if I go from my SB AF811 to a larger camper I am not limited. So the payload of the 3500 is 5140, not nearly what I need. My sb camper is 4000 wet with no gear and I want to have at least another 500-1000 ability, towing ability, etc. So the next one up is the 4500 with 8520. Now one could argue this is enough by the numbers with the 5500 at 11450. But everyone I speak to who has driven these says both are so stiff empty you cant really tell the difference. So why not go to the 5500, steel platform, steel upper and lower storage, drop my 4K camper on it and I probably wont really notice the difference but if I go to some triple slide huge camper I will be happy to have the extra capacity.

As far as the single wheel conversion, I think not. I dont want a higher COG, I want the redundancy if one rear wheel goes flat I can safely stop and in a pinch remove it and hobble out on one tire.

So I am not degrading anything but rather matching to my needs and if I sell the truck anyone can do what ever they want in both the camper and commercial world. I am even going to look into downgrading the capacity if NV allows that to try to avoid higher insurance prices as you can always change that.

Now I am sure I havent thought about all the issues here but I am narrowing things down for my situation without limiting future possibilites is the way I am trying to look at this.

Now if the dam trucks were not so expensive I could retire instead of working more to pay this dude off prior. Not sure how much my Limited 3500 might help offset the price so will be looking into that.

Then there is the problem that the wife wants a new car....ouch but I guess I could drive her old one. At our age who knows we might not need to purchace again.....sad but true.

Thanks everyone to applying critical thoughts into this. I learn a lot from this site.

 

[Ozymandias]

With a 7K front axle rating and 13.5K rear axle rating 3500lbs a wheel is adequate for the 5500.

Whats the maximum Load Index in the 20" World?
I know for the 18" it is LI-129/127* which is way below of the need for 5500.
*for duals

 

[AH64ID]

Whats the maximum Load Index in the 20" World?
I know for the 18" it is LI-129/127* which is way below of the need for 5500.
*for duals

Actually a 129/127 LI would meet the needs of a 5500 for both the front and rear axle.

The front axle needs a 124 LI and the rear needs a 123 LI to meet the GAWR’s.

For 20’s the highest I’ve seen are 129/126, but there are several sizes that would meet a 5500’s axle ratings with the proper rims.

That being said, they won’t handle the weight like some 19.5’s would.. so why bother with the 5500.

 

[NIsaacs]

also need to have kids digging holes in my backyard in reno to find gold or silver to buy a new 5500. Way too expensive

Maybe go this route and keep the oem tires and wheels.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/ordered-2021-5500.270722/page-2#post-2679673

https://kelderman.com/shop/air-suspension/2013-ram-4500-5500-4-link-rear-air-suspension

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[Turbo Terry]

To me at some point a slide in truck camper becomes to big to be on a pickup . My brother in law who lives in Florida wants to buy a 1 ton double cab long box dually to haul a slide in camper . Truck will not fit his garage . He expects to drive it about empty park it and in traffic.He will have to pay storage off time for the camper. This rig will cost most of 175k when he’s done. Also he has never owned a truck bigger than a 1/2 ton pickup no travel trailers etc he’s a first timer I told him to go find a good used 24 ft motor home with low mikes and forget trying to haul a big camper on a pickup

 

[brillmtb1]

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[brillmtb1]

So my last post above is the direction I am going kind of but with CM bed and bolt on boxes. Heavy bed, extra storage, camper with full 52 gallons water, perhaps KTM off the back. That should mellow out the 5500 but I also dont need max tires so 20 inch with AT tires for off road, snow, ice coverage advantage should I need it. If I need to resale then include or pull off bolt on boxes and sell to a commercial guy that needs to convert to a dump truck

 

[Cummins12V98]

I have to ask what is a "DULLY"