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Exhaust Manifold Leak

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To the TDR crew,
How much of a can of WHOOP A$$ am I up against in replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets? How much coolant will I need to drain? Have had the cooler off before and know what that's all about. Just trying to get my "ducks" in a row before tearing it all down. Have acquired gaskets and new bolts/spacers for the fix. I'm figuring on pulling the fender liner along with the air box and hose. Since I'm in there, I have the coolant level low message almost every time I drive, will this allow the reservoir come out easier without the manifold and cooler not in the way. If so, I'd pull that also and clean the "slime" off the level sensor.

Weather is starting to turn to make this repair easier since I don't have a garage to work in! Please advise if I'm leaving or missing anything from what I should be looking at. 176K on the meter. Have done all maintenance, turbo actuator, and coolant hoses have been done on radiator.

Thanks for any insight and tricks to make it easier.
 
Yep, Leaking most likely, Had to resurface the one on my 04 as it was warped and leaking on both ends, (#1, #6). It was a pretty easy job but then again it didn't have any coolant in it. Turbo studs were the only thing that I did some PB on and were the hardest to contend with. EGR will just add some steps, plan on measuring it, but in the end I ended up resurfacing
 
Going in as there is a slight squeal happening with the EB. With EB off, quiet as can be. So there is a back pressure leak happening. Boost and EB braking are still good. Figured I'd dive in and get all the info that I can from those that have been done this road. Thanks for the input.
 
If it is the gasket only then all you need is the gaskets.

Turn all manifold bolts five turns out, push manifold back, then replace one gasket at a time, bolt by bolt, they drop right in if you do the top bolt first, then retorque manifold bolts all ttogether. Half an hour you're done.

Retorque after the first hot/cold cycle.
3/8 torque wrench and tool preferred as it is tight for 5 & 6.

Make sure that every old gasket comes out entirely, they have like 4 or 5 layers each.
And make sure that the new ones going are complete and have all layers too. Count them twice!
That was one of the reasons why I was in there more then once.
 
I've got manifold, turbo and cooler gaskets as well as the o-rings necessary for tracking down the leak. Have noticed a bit more soot under the hood, leads me to believe it's the manifold but prepared for which ever one. Thanks for the input.
 
Technology has come along with the endoscope cameras that go on your phone.

Might be an idea, I don't have an actual part number to share or experience level, but I was thinking about picking up a lighted version for some cylinder inspections on some old engines I have.
 
I've looked at those myself. Haven't pulled the trigger on one, trying to justify the need or want for one. There are some real advantages but with phones changing all the time, just not sure about phone type or stand alone rigs. Tough choice either way, but thanks for sharing the idea.
 
Usually such a leak can be traced at a cold start using the EB as warm up device.
Gives a back pressure where there is usually none.
A listening device (20$ on Amazon) helps greatly to pinpoint it.
 
Usually such a leak can be traced at a cold start using the EB as warm up device.
Gives a back pressure where there is usually none.
A listening device (20$ on Amazon) helps greatly to pinpoint it.

On a 2014 he may get some EB application on a cold engine, but likely not much. My 18 barely built any pressure with the EB on for warmup, and the 22 builds none. The ECM already applies more load with the EB, but not enough to build a ton of pressure. I’m guessing the engineers finally figured out what I did over 15 years ago, EB use on a cold engine puts excessive soot into the oil.
 
@Diesel85, and @Cummins12V98, Never thought of a hose. Putting that in the ol' memory banks. Have a better device then the old screw driver to the ear. Was given an old stethoscope. Removed the end and replace with a length of metal rod. Much easier to to pin point as you can watch where you want to put it without turning your head to put to your ear on end of screwdriver. You can get them cheap off of most shopping sites and cheaper the the ones sold for automotive use. They like to hit us in the wallet for specialty tools! :rolleyes:

Thanks again for the ideas and suggestions. Having the factory service manual and TDR for reference, has made working on my truck way easier than I would have thought! Some things I wouldn't tackle, but allows me to make that decision! :cool:
 
Update; Just finished up the battle and won! Found the #6 was leaking through the gasket. All others were good. What a pain! 2 days worth of work for me. The look tab on the back 2 bolt of the manifold was a royal pain to remove! The fasteners that I had out from the EGR cleaning were a breeze to get out due to copper anti-seize! all fasteners went back in with it and took into account the extra torque needed to hit spec. Grade 8 bolts with anti-seize require 1.17 x more torque. Didn't use manifold to turbo gasket. Had it just in case there was an issue. New bolts made the job so much better! Thanks again for the ideas and tricks!
 
So I have an EB whistle that is more when cold then goes away when warm. Dealer couldn't find anything wrong....really. Now I have some whistling occurring on occasion on boost. I have been following some threads on the exhaust gasket at 6. Could that also be the cause of the same whistle with acceleration/boost. I think my dealer waited for my warranty to run out so I contacted and opened a claim. They want me to go back to the same dealer to diagnose it and it sounds like they will cover since I reported under warranty but I really want them to not mess around this time and find the issue. Cant be too many places to look?
 
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