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Transmission Temperature Sensor Location?

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EGR/Cooler Cleaning

The first week I bought the truck new in 2008 I added a gauge set. I never did hook up the transmission temperature sensor. I have a sensor designed to install in the pan. I have what I need to do the first fluid and filters change. Should I install thru pan or is there a better location?
Thanks,
John
 
This is one of "THOSE" subjects you'll get varying opinions on. It's like the pre- or post- turbo pyrometer debate. They both have merits.

My personal opinion is to put it in the hose going into the cooler. This will tell you what your transmission temp is NOW. By the time the pan temp gets high, chances are the damage has been done.
 
I prefer to see what the temp is going into the transmission than afterward. So, my probe is on the pan. But I have added a MAG-HYTEC deep dish oil pan that is AL, and the capacity of the pan has increased the amount that is required I use a total of 9.5 QRT's now.

When towing my transmission temps never run above 205 F, and I tow heavy.
This is just my opinion.
 
I am not sure that the stock transmission pan has a thread port for the temperature probe from your gage. That is one reason I went with the Mag Hytec deep dish pan and the other reasons is the AL fins pf the pan plus the added capacity for oil.
Just saying
 
OEM trans temp sensors are in the pan, but the fluid doesn’t care where it’s located it simply cares how hot it is. Fluid cares about the temp it gets to, period.

The Aisin has a temp sensor in the TQ converter output line and it runs much hotter than the sump when the torque converter is unlocked so I monitor it on long steep tows where the converter won’t lock. Just pointing out the temp differences in sump temp and highest temp.


That being said… first fluid and filter change on a 2008 in 2024?? Yikes.
 
Any extra indications of heat are better than none, but with that said, why not get a compression tee fitting that fits your sensor and put it in line to the cooler. Or do both and have all bases covered if you really want to know what's going on down there. I was going to monitor the pan also, but with further reading on the subject, seems better off to do the line to cooler is the better option.
 
Any extra indications of heat are better than none, but with that said, why not get a compression tee fitting that fits your sensor and put it in line to the cooler. Or do both and have all bases covered if you really want to know what's going on down there. I was going to monitor the pan also, but with further reading on the subject, seems better off to do the line to cooler is the better option.

Something like the ISSPRO Clipsense would be a good way to monitor cooler supply temps.
 
I am not sure that the stock transmission pan has a thread port for the temperature probe from your gage. That is one reason I went with the Mag Hytec deep dish pan and the other reasons is the AL fins pf the pan plus the added capacity for oil.
Just saying
Stock pan has no port. I plan on drilling and adding a fitting.
 
Are you good at TIG welding and are you going to ensure that there is no slag in the transmission pan.

This is why I went to the MAG-HYTEC pan that Geno's sells. I don't need to drill and weld in a threaded boss on the stock pan and worry about leaks and weld slag in the pan. Also, there is a drain plug on the pan, so it is easier in removing the oil. No transmission oil bath when changing the transmission oil the next time. The plug is also magnetized to catch the fuzzy that are floating around in the oil.

I usually change the transmission oil every 60,000 miles with filters, since I tow a heavy 5er.
 
Are you good at TIG welding and are you going to ensure that there is no slag in the transmission pan.

This is why I went to the MAG-HYTEC pan that Geno's sells. I don't need to drill and weld in a threaded boss on the stock pan and worry about leaks and weld slag in the pan. Also, there is a drain plug on the pan, so it is easier in removing the oil. No transmission oil bath when changing the transmission oil the next time. The plug is also magnetized to catch the fuzzy that are floating around in the oil.

I usually change the transmission oil every 60,000 miles with filters, since I tow a heavy 5er.

I plan on removing pan, drilling and reaming a tight tolerance clearance hole for a threaded sensor. Jammed nuts, flat washer, RTV washer, pan, flat washer, lock washer and nut.
 
It would be a lot easier to cut the cooler hose and put it in line. As I stated, more accurate, too.
 
I plan on removing pan, drilling and reaming a tight tolerance clearance hole for a threaded sensor. Jammed nuts,
flat washer, RTV washer, pan, flat washer, lock washer and nut.

John, Good luck on your approach to adding a temp probe to the pan.

But there is a reason that tread bosses are place into any pan to allow either a plug or probe to be placed into a pan. This is to prevent leaks from occurring. I have seen deep drawn pans were the thread port location leaked when the parent material was used to allow the plug to be inserted into the pan.

I only spent forty years designing hydraulics and structures at Cat. So, I think my experience does count for something.

Jim
 
I've used this; B&M 80250 drain plug kit, has been in the truck several years with no leaks. Will accept 1/8" sensor.
 
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