Front Ball Joints: While I'm in There???

[JohnHaggerty]

First off let me whine and say replacing the front ball joints was a PITA! It seemed as though every part was tough to get apart. So I got the new ball joints in and now wondering if I should be doing anything while I have it apart. The front axle u-joints seen fine, so I don't see a reason to change them. I probably have less than 100 miles on the 4wd system over 14 years. I assume there is a bearing in the hub that the front axle goes thru. How do I inspect that to know if it's good? How easily should the axle spin in that assembly while off the truck. Mine is tight. Basically I see it as there is a three part assembly; the axle shaft (with u-joints), a hub that probable has a bearing in it and another hub pressed over the axle end splines and contains the threaded studs. I deal with the steering after I get it back together and have new tires put on. Thanks, John

 

[bcbender]

I assume there is a bearing in the hub that the front axle goes thru.

No, just splined into the hub and the bearing is the wheel bearing assembly, How many miles on the truck?

a hub that probable has a bearing in it and another hub pressed over the axle end splines

That is the unitized bearing assembly mentioned above,.. it contains the speed sensor, wheel bearings, and hub and is sold as a assembly

The front axle u-joints seen fine, so I don't see a reason to change them. I probably have less than 100 miles on the 4wd system over 14 years.

Just keep in mind that even though you don't use the 4wd, they are still spinning at wheel speed all the time and working even though not under load.. My 04 had both go out (at separate times) and my usage was about the same. its the not to bad to change them but you do have to pull the unit bearings and brakes to get at em... Id confirm the are not sticky or leaky or etc since your in there.

Also might want to dump and fill the front diff.

 

[Ozymandias]

This is one single unit, it is replaced as one.

By the way you should use 4wd about once a month for a couple miles to keep everything lubed and in good working order.
This can be done on gravel or on a nice straight highway as long as your tires have roughly the same thread depth.

 

[JohnHaggerty]

How do I know if my wheel bearing and hub assembly is bad? How freely should the axle spin while in the assembly. I can't spin the axle by hand while out on the bench.

 

[bcbender]

That bearing assy shown above should spin fairly easy by itself, obviously no looseness, or slop should be evident. They are not prohibitively expensive, I did both on my 04 at 120k when I had the axle taken apart to do the u-joints as a preventative measure.. I bought Timkens made in USA for about $125 a side, a little more now but nowhere near what they cost from the dealer.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...asg7Ax0xlkzbGuMr60tOA29amWK/N9MiPW2gEeBadhA==

 

[Ozymandias]

If in doubt - replace it if it is already out.

If it is the bearing you have beaten on it for hours like mentioned in the other thread - replace it absolutely.

Only use brand name bearing.

Use the proper torque for the shaft nut as this gives the pre-load for the bearing.

 

[JohnHaggerty]

OK guys this is growing (like it normally does)! I have 103k miles on a 16 year old truck. To get to this point, I beat the daylights out of everything so the bearings probably felt it. I know to try and do it right now, instead of doing all over again. Timkens have always been my bearing of choice, so I'm going that direction. I'll be getting six new tires next week and want to make sure they last. I've already pulled the trigger and ordered the front axle u-joints. I don't have a puller to seperate the hub from axle. Can someone please send me to a puller that will do the job and not break the bank. I suspect I will only use the tool twice in my lifetime. Also, what is a simple process to get the axle into the hub (working in my driveway with somewhat limited tools)? Thanks, John.

 

[petersonj]

How easily should the axle spin in that assembly while off the truck. Mine is tight.

I don't have a puller to seperate the hub from axle.

How do I know if my wheel bearing and hub assembly is bad? How freely should the axle spin while in the assembly. I can't spin the axle by hand while out on the bench.

Unless I am misunderstanding, it sounds like you removed the hub and the axle shaft together as an assembly. The axle shaft is not pressed into the unit bearing assembly (hub). It is a splined slip fit and a large nut holds it into place.

Did you remove the large nut with the cotter key before you started your project? If not, there is where your troubles lie.

If I did misunderstand your disassembly procedure, then you can disregard all of the above.

- John

 

[bcbender]

Here is the FSM for the axle / wheel brg R&R.

 

[JohnHaggerty]

Yes, I removed the hub and axle as an assembly. Yes, I removed the cotter pin and large nut. I haven't tried to remove the hub from axle shaft yet, as I was still trying to determine if I was going the route of a new hubs (which I am) . Thanks for the splined slip fit information. John

 

[bcbender]

As long as the nut is off.. should be able to separate the two, just stubborn corrosion holding it together. PB blaster, some time for a frosty beverage here are your friend(s)

 

[BigPapa]

I don't know where he's at, but from his avatar it looks like maybe he's somewhere they would use a lot of road salt in the winter....

 

[JohnHaggerty]

The first 5 years the truck lived in Maryland. They use pure salt and other chemicals during the winter. I tried not to use the truck in snow, as I had my favorite truck for that (89 7.3 IDI F250, I ordered new and lasted 20 years and almost 500k until the frame was too rusted out). The last 11 years the truck lives in Florida. I'd muck rather be working on the truck in my barn as shown in my avatar, but for now it's in my sunny Florida driveway.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Just make sure when you re-install the hub you anti-seize the hell out of it. Especially where it gets seized in the knuckle. Some say using a puller to get the hub off can damage the u-joints bbut you are past that now.

 

[Randomrunner12]

This is one single unit, it is replaced as one.

View attachment 140572

By the way you should use 4wd about once a month for a couple miles to keep everything lubed and in good working order.
This can be done on gravel or on a nice straight highway as long as your tires have roughly the same thread depth.

This was good to just read. Didn't know that so I will definitely being doing this.

 

[Topzide]

A board and hammer should remove the shaft from hub splines. Might want to invest in a ball joint press kit for the u-joints. Makes the job easier! With 2 4x4 trucks, the investment was worth it. The kit at HF will do fine and not break the bank! Not a fun job, but very doable no matter the working environment. Did mine in a gravel driveway.

 

[JohnHaggerty]

A board and hammer should remove the shaft from hub splines. Might want to invest in a ball joint press kit for the u-joints. Makes the job easier! With 2 4x4 trucks, the investment was worth it. The kit at HF will do fine and not break the bank! Not a fun job, but very doable no matter the working environment. Did mine in a gravel driveway.

Thanks, I got the shaft out of the hub. Easiest part of the job so far. I have a HF ball joint kit. I actually bent the c-clamp on my 35+ yo set and had to go get another for this job. One of the lower ball joints earned that c-clamp.

I inspected the u-joint assemblies and all seems good. No play within the roller bearings that I could feel and basically tight. I started to use the HF ball joint clamp but couldn't come up with good clearance to react the tool on the exit side. After a couple of attempts I stopped. Joint still seems in good condition, so I'm going to stop here.

I waiting for the new hubs to arrive. I don't think I needed them, just threw another $400 at the job.

Hopefully, re-assembly is straight forward. It should give my impact gun and hammer a rest!

Thanks all, John

 

[AH64ID]

I may have missed it, but are you replacing the axle u-joints too?

 

[Ozymandias]

Use some copper paste at the mating surface, makes disassembly easier the next time or for you or the next guy.

 

[JohnHaggerty]

I may have missed it, but are you replacing the axle u-joints too?

Yes, "while I'm in there". I overlooked that there are retainer clips and almost gave up on the axle u-joints. After stepping back and looking at it again, I picked up on the retainers, removed them and the u-joints were easy from there.