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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Pushrod Cover Replacement?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Torquing Inj. Pump Timing Gear

Ecm

I'm doing the push rod cover gasket and have the seal kit and yellow RTV to do the job. I have 2 questions.
(1) There is a foam cover glued on the outside of the pushrod cover.
This foam is broken and falling apart, does a new stock cover come with this insulator? Or is it ok to run without it?
There is a part number 3936969 on the foam. The cover comes up when that number is googled.
(2) Do both sets of injector lines have to come off to get the cover out of there? It sure looks that way :)
There is a small pump? wIth # 10 bolts on the bracket below the cover. Would removing that be easier than fooling with the number 6 injector line?
I was surprised to hear the fuel return line was in stock at Cummins. It's a good thing, mine would no longer seal.
Thanks.
 
The foam cover isn't necessary, I think it was a supposed to be a sound absorber. Can't tell any difference with a 12 valve, YMMV. The rest I can't comment on.
 
I’ve never done one on a 24-valve. I understood the IP had to come off. Someone with more 24-valve experience will chime in.

As Gary said, the insulation isn’t necessary.
 
I’ve never done one on a 24-valve. I understood the IP had to come off. Someone with more 24-valve experience will chime in.

As Gary said, the insulation isn’t necessary.

Yes the pump has to come off might as well do the camshaft position sensor while your at it
 
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Second the VP44 coming off. There is room for the ECM to be laid out of the way without disconnecting the wiring harness. Keep track of the spacers between the ECM and the engine block.

- John
 
Sorry, I did not explain very well. The injection pump is off. The first set of injected lines are off. The tappet cover is off. But I can't get it out without either removing the other set of injector lines or whatever the small item is on the bracket underneath and to the right of The tappet cover.
Do I need to take the second set of injector lines off? I'm hooked on the injection pump studs. And the little item that's mounted on a bracket below and to the right of the tappet cover.
 
Sorry, I did not explain very well. The injection pump is off. The first set of injected lines are off. The tappet cover is off. But I can't get it out without either removing the other set of injector lines or whatever the small item is on the bracket underneath and to the right of The tappet cover.
Do I need to take the second set of injector lines off? I'm hooked on the injection pump studs. And the little item that's mounted on a bracket below and to the right of the tappet cover.

how did you get the injection pump off without removing the fuel lines
 
Also make sure that you get the gasket on in the right direction or it will leak like a pig found that out the hard way thankfully the engine was still on the stand
 
how did you get the injection pump off without removing the fuel lines
I am talking about completely removing the lines from the engine. 1,2 and 4 are lying on my bench right now, 3,5 and 6 are still on the engine. The injection pump is also on the bench.
The cover off, but is blocked by the injection pump studs at one end, the remaining injection lines above and what I now believe is the original lift pump below.
I will pull the remaining injection lines tomorrow if I'm not rained out. I should then be able to get the cover past the other obstacles.
 
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Also make sure that you get the gasket on in the right direction or it will leak like a pig found that out the hard way thankfully the engine was still on the stand
I understand what you are referring to. I read it in another post in the forum. I believe there was a drawing showing the correct orientation.
 
This repair ended up working great.
There were some changes:
Felpro Gasket was no longer like Cummins part. No "front" molded in to show gasket direction and no lip protruding on sealing side. Cummins is discontinuing both the stock pushrod cover and gasket so I replaced both at 50% list with free ship from Cummins Parts online.
Yellow weatherstrip glue stuck to cover great but not at all to gasket, probably needed cleaned before install. I wash the Cummins gasket with Dawn cleaner and used Hylomar Blue to attach gasket to cover. I then applied the gasket dry to the block at factory torque specs.
I also replaced the camshaft position sensor as suggested by SAndreasen.
I bought the engine barring tool as I should have done years ago.
I have put about 100 highway miles on at this point and so far have a no drip engine.
Hopefully it will stay that way on my much longer trip the end of July.
Thanks for the help on my numerous posts during this repair! Gary
 
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