Bundy exhaust brake

[steve69]

Hi, I have a 06,48re 5.9 cummins. I was looking at the Bundy exhaust brake. Has anyone here bought one. Heard anything about them. Thanks Steve

 

[STeichert]

I reached out to them about a year ago and got no response at all. Not sure they are even in business. Pretty cool idea though. I wanted one for my '05 six speed.

 

[seafish]

Pretty sure that your 06 will operate with a PacBrake turbo back EB

 

[steve69]

I reached out to them about a year ago and got no response at all. Not sure they are even in business. Pretty cool idea though. I wanted one for my '05 six speed.

Well, not sure.

 

[Ozymandias]

Seems like a half baked solution to me...

Operation Instruction:

1. When going downhill or coming to a long stop, toggle the Bundy Exhaust Brake switch to the (II) This will close the valve engaging the exhaust brake. (Note: The controller on the main harness will ensure the exhaust brake fully closes and will only allow you to disengage the brake after 5 seconds.) DO NOT toggle the switch back and forth quickly.
2. When exhaust braking is no longer desired, toggle the switch to the (I) This will open the valve and disengage the exhaust brake.
3. To shut the exhaust brake and controller off, toggle the switch to the (0) (Note: toggling the switch to the (0) position when the exhaust brake is engaged will not disengage the exhaust brake, you must toggle the switch to the (I) position to disengage the brake.)
4. With automatic transmissions the Bundy Exhaust Brake performs optimally ONLY in Tow/Haul mode. (Tow/Haul mode locks up the torque converter on your automatic transmission so down-shifting is similar to a manual transmission, causing your exhaust brake to slow you down using the powertrain.

Notices:

• The Bundy Exhaust Brake is manually controlled and will not disengage without using the control switch. Do not accelerate for more than 5 seconds with the exhaust brake engaged. It is never good to brake and accelerate at the same time.
• If you have an older vehicle with an automatic transmission and no Tow/Haul mode, you will need to install a torque convertor lock up harness to get the optimal performance out of any exhaust brake. To purchase the Bundy Exhaust Brake Torque Converter Lock Up Harness go to: https://bundyexhaustbrake.com

And the above mentioned TC lockup isn't more then a mystery switch.

To me I'd go with a decent Brake from the well known sellers without cutting and welding and playing around with switches - and wait a full five seconds to being able to switch it off after engaging.

 

[NIsaacs]

Seems like a half baked solution to me...

I agree. Way too slow to engage/disengage, 5 seconds is a long time. Three way switch, close/open/off. So it wont work with a secondary throttle switch, which also means no worky with cruise. I am not in favor of an inline brake, hard to control leaks, turbo mount is better.

No specs listed that I can find. Back pressure limits on older Cummins engines, without the 60# valve springs is critical.

About 10 years ago, this ranch was in the news daily

 

[steve69]

I did like the simplicity of it,gotta admit. My biggest concern was back pressure being to much. I have looked at the Pac and is it Bank. What's the preferred one?

 

[steve69]

I did like the simplicity of it,gotta admit. My biggest concern was back pressure being to much. I have looked at the Pac and is it Bank. What's the preferred one?

 

[bcbender]

I ran the PacBrake PRXB on my 04 and had zero issues with it, would do it again if I ever get another older truck. Worked with the ECM and shut of automatically when throttle was applied.. I basically left it on most of the time and it was pretty much seamless to use given appropriate throttle responses and shifting. Shifter mounted switch did make it convenient to use though.

 

[Ozymandias]

PAC is bandleader.
I had a factory Jacob's first and after a couple years switched to PAC because it is so much better.
Fully integrated into the vehicles electronic, switches on and off within the blink of an eye - even the ABS releases it when the rears start to skid on a slippery surface.

Edit: and coming to price, you get what you pay for, for just a couple Dollars more with PacBrake you get a way better solution. The Bundy is far overpriced for a piece of pipe with a butterfly valve.

 

[steve69]

Thanks for the comments and suggestions.

 

[CharlesinGA]

PacBrake on the '06-'07 is seamless both in install and operation, as the trucks computer handles the converter lockup when it gets signals from the Cummins computer. You hook two wires to the Cummins computer, both come pre pinned. One goes to a switch in the cab that goes directly to ground. That ground tells the computer to operate the EB when the right conditions are met. The other wire goes from the computer to one of the Bosch type relays and provides a ground for the relay coil. the relay operates the air valve to engage the EB. The computer can only handle a extremely limited amount of current thru the ground and that is the reason for the "bosch" relay. as its coil uses an extremely small amount of current. The Cummins computer is programmed to watch pedal position and when the pedal is fully released, and coolant temp is above 170F the exhaust brake activates and then when RPM drops below about 900 rpm it releases. If the coolant temp is below 170 the EB will stay on down to idle.

The bonus is having compressed air onboard. If you want a larger compressor or have a non-stock intake horn you simply install a frame mounted bracket and compressor. You can buy the kit with the air compressor or without (you provide the air).

Its a very slick install. I love it.

I researched every option, going so far as to read thru the installation instructions for the PB, the Banks, and the BD Howler. The Banks EB requires you install a Vacuum pump on the engine, possibly a longer serpentine belt and has a huge operating cylinder. It uses the Cummins computer connections just like the Pac Brake. It would be OK if on an older truck that already had a vac pump to operate a brake booster and HVAC blend door actuators, but on a 3rd gen, it makes no sense and is almost the same price as the PacBrake. The PacBrake XB (the only one still sold I think) is much more efficient, as it has a hole in the butterfly with a floating plate to block it at lower pressures and the plate will open up at higher pressures.

My install thread from last year. https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-pacbrake-kit-on-my-03-5-9l-ho-nv5600.273276/

I don't recall where it was but someone responded on a thread that they had the original PacBrake valve assembly and PB offered them a deal on the new XB model when it first came out. He bought it and said it was much stronger braking than his original fixed orifice version.

I hate to sound like an advertisement for PB but for a 3 gen with a 5.9L its the best choice.

Charles

 

[steve69]

View attachment 141039

PacBrake on the '06-'07 is seamless both in install and operation, as the trucks computer handles the converter lockup when it gets signals from the Cummins computer. You hook two wires to the Cummins computer, both come pre pinned. One goes to a switch in the cab that goes directly to ground. That ground tells the computer to operate the EB when the right conditions are met. The other wire goes from the computer to one of the Bosch type relays and provides a ground for the relay coil. the relay operates the air valve to engage the EB. The computer can only handle a extremely limited amount of current thru the ground and that is the reason for the "bosch" relay. as its coil uses an extremely small amount of current. The Cummins computer is programmed to watch pedal position and when the pedal is fully released, and coolant temp is above 170F the exhaust brake activates and then when RPM drops below about 900 rpm it releases. If the coolant temp is below 170 the EB will stay on down to idle.

The bonus is having compressed air onboard. If you want a larger compressor or have a non-stock intake horn you simply install a frame mounted bracket and compressor. You can buy the kit with the air compressor or without (you provide the air).

Its a very slick install. I love it.

I researched every option, going so far as to read thru the installation instructions for the PB, the Banks, and the BD Howler. The Banks EB requires you install a Vacuum pump on the engine, possibly a longer serpentine belt and has a huge operating cylinder. It uses the Cummins computer connections just like the Pac Brake. It would be OK if on an older truck that already had a vac pump to operate a brake booster and HVAC blend door actuators, but on a 3rd gen, it makes no sense and is almost the same price as the PacBrake. The PacBrake XB (the only one still sold I think) is much more efficient, as it has a hole in the butterfly with a floating plate to block it at lower pressures and the plate will open up at higher pressures.

My install thread from last year. https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-pacbrake-kit-on-my-03-5-9l-ho-nv5600.273276/

I don't recall where it was but someone responded on a thread that they had the original PacBrake valve assembly and PB offered them a deal on the new XB model when it first came out. He bought it and said it was much stronger braking than his original fixed orifice version.

I hate to sound like an advertisement for PB but for a 3 gen with a 5.9L its the best choice.

Charles

Thanks for the info. That's what I was wanting to know.

 

[CharlesinGA]

If you buy PacBrake, go on Amazon and order 50 ft of 1/4 OD SAE J844 air brake tubing, and go to NAPA and buy 50 ft of 1/4 wire loom material to sheath the tubing in (much better quality from NAPA than the Harbor Freight crap) The tubing in the kit is crap, someone in China braided it in a very nice looking ring of tubing that if you do get it undone, it will have permanent kinks and bends in it, and that tubing is not J844 rated. (not marked as such).

While on Amazon buy you a set of male and female Delphi/Aptiva Metra Pack 280 connectors with 12-14 gauge wire pins. amazon.com/Delphi-Metri-Pack-Connector-Sealed-Waterproof/dp/B07BMVZ94M/ and extra pins, these are 10-12 gauge, in case you screw them up or need bigger wire size. amazon.com/Metri-Pack-Female-Sealer-Terminal-Sockets/dp/B0CG5LPV3J?th=1 That is what the fuel heater uses and is the BEST way to get IGNITION/switch on power (and you only need an amp or less) Build you a short, 3-4 inch max inline connector with 14 gauge wires, and on the hot one (use a meter to find it) put an extra tap and hook the inline fuse holder PacBrake provides in the hot side. That way you are not probing, poking, or damaging wires tapping for power. This is exactly what the BD Howler kit does and its a great idea, I looked at the wiring diagrams and nothing else is on the fuel heater circuit, which is only drawing current when temp drops to 45F and goes off when the sensor rises to 75F, but is powered any time the ignition is in RUN. Connector is on the front of the fuel filter. This ignition power is used to operate the two small "bosch" type relays and the electric air valve. It has nothing to do with the air compressor power, which is on a 30 amp inline fuse off the LH battery. These are the install instructions for the C44045 is a PRXB design for: Dodge trucks built after July 27th, 2005 w/ Cummins 5.9L 610 ft-lbs of torque, automatic transmissions. and same instructions for all 2003-2007 manual shift models. https://pacbrake.com/mm5/pdfs/L2032.pdf

If you are going to do the install yourself, I suggest you download the instructions and read thru them a couple of times.

PS, you need the proper crimpers for the connectors. amazon.com/IWISS-Crimping-Terminals-Metri-Pack-Connectors/dp/B071KFLY43/?th=1

Charles

 

[steve69]

If you buy PacBrake, go on Amazon and order 50 ft of 1/4 OD SAE J844 air brake tubing, and go to NAPA and buy 50 ft of 1/4 wire loom material to sheath the tubing in (much better quality from NAPA than the Harbor Freight crap) The tubing in the kit is crap, someone in China braided it in a very nice looking ring of tubing that if you do get it undone, it will have permanent kinks and bends in it, and that tubing is not J844 rated. (not marked as such).

While on Amazon buy you a set of male and female Delphi/Aptiva Metra Pack 280 connectors with 12-14 gauge wire pins. amazon.com/Delphi-Metri-Pack-Connector-Sealed-Waterproof/dp/B07BMVZ94M/ and extra pins, these are 10-12 gauge, in case you screw them up or need bigger wire size. amazon.com/Metri-Pack-Female-Sealer-Terminal-Sockets/dp/B0CG5LPV3J?th=1 That is what the fuel heater uses and is the BEST way to get IGNITION/switch on power (and you only need an amp or less) Build you a short, 3-4 inch max inline connector with 14 gauge wires, and on the hot one (use a meter to find it) put an extra tap and hook the inline fuse holder PacBrake provides in the hot side. That way you are not probing, poking, or damaging wires tapping for power. This is exactly what the BD Howler kit does and its a great idea, I looked at the wiring diagrams and nothing else is on the fuel heater circuit, which is only drawing current when temp drops to 45F and goes off when the sensor rises to 75F, but is powered any time the ignition is in RUN. Connector is on the front of the fuel filter. This ignition power is used to operate the two small "bosch" type relays and the electric air valve. It has nothing to do with the air compressor power, which is on a 30 amp inline fuse off the LH battery. These are the install instructions for the C44045 is a PRXB design for: Dodge trucks built after July 27th, 2005 w/ Cummins 5.9L 610 ft-lbs of torque, automatic transmissions. and same instructions for all 2003-2007 manual shift models. https://pacbrake.com/mm5/pdfs/L2032.pdf

If you are going to do the install yourself, I suggest you download the instructions and read thru them a couple of times.

PS, you need the proper crimpers for the connectors. amazon.com/IWISS-Crimping-Terminals-Metri-Pack-Connectors/dp/B071KFLY43/?th=1

Charles

Thanks alot.

 

[User113]

And, while Pac sells brakes that fit in the straight pipe like the Bundy brakes, they also have a version in the turbo elbow. The closer the brake is to the exhaust valves, the better the braking pressure will be because there is less volume for the exhaust gasses to compress.

I will say, the install of the automatic PacBrake controller is a bit tricky as you need to tap into a couple of wires in somewhat tight and awkward places, but as Ozy says, it is fully automatic and smooth, letting you concentrate on your driving. Just one little switch to enable automatic control or disable the thing altogether. Once installed, it is a thing of beauty.

I usually keep it switched off for around town driving, except when it's really cold out; then I use it to help warm up the motor (automatically). On the highway is where it fully shines (like driving through the hills of WV).

 

[CharlesinGA]

And, while Pac sells brakes that fit in the straight pipe like the Bundy brakes, they also have a version in the turbo elbow. The closer the brake is to the exhaust valves, the better the braking pressure will be because there is less volume for the exhaust gasses to compress.

I will say, the install of the automatic PacBrake controller is a bit tricky as you need to tap into a couple of wires in somewhat tight and awkward places, but as Ozy says, it is fully automatic and smooth, letting you concentrate on your driving. Just one little switch to enable automatic control or disable the thing altogether. Once installed, it is a thing of beauty.

I usually keep it switched off for around town driving, except when it's really cold out; then I use it to help warm up the motor (automatically). On the highway is where it fully shines (like driving through the hills of WV).

The OP has an '06 model and will not need the transmission controller. Dodge incorporated the necessary lockup functions in the vehicle's computer for the '06 and early '07 models.

Charles

 

[steve69]

I did get a very detailed message from Bundy exhaust. Seems that you can get the torque convertor lockup wiring harness you with their system for models with tow haul feature. Guess you just to remember to turn it off after you engage it. I still have a cple months to decide. Again thanks for the help.

 

[RussellSullivan]

I have had good luck with the Banks Exhaust brakes. Have one in an 06 5.9 six speed and one in an 07 5.9
with a 48Re. Had a vac pump problem in one when it was new and Banks immediately replaced it for free.
Have about 260k miles on the pair and no other problems.
Yes, you have to add the vac pump and a longer belt, but those come with the pump kit. Replacing the exhaust elbow at the rear of the manifold takes some time and patience because its a tight area to work in and my hands are big.
The wiring was straight forward. Easier on the manual transmission than the 48Re. Again the big hands.
There is a bit of maintenance involved. About every 60k miles I remove the vac pump, take the four little bolts out of it and drain the oil out. Only holds an ounce or two. Then I refill it with Rotell T-4.
Sure love them on the long downhills

 

[steve69]

Decisions,Decisions.. Thanks for the comments and helpful suggestions.