High Iron Content in Engine Oil Analysis

[Markh1254]

I have a Tradesman 2500 with about 56,000 miles on it. I change the oil every spring since the truck only is driven about 2,000 to 3,000 miles/year. Most miles are pulling a trailer that weighs around 10,000 lbs. I use Valvoline Supreme Blue 15W40 and when draining it (hot) I grab a sample of oil and send it off to Blackstone for analysis.

I'm noticing that the Iron content is above the universal averages. I've pasted below a printout from Blackstone. Do I need to be concerned about this and what could be contributing to this above average reading?

Thank you again,
Mark

 

[AH64ID]

On average, how long does the truck sit at a time? How far is your average drive?



I’d also look into other oil analysis labs, Blackstone isn’t known for the best techs and that comment about ignoring time is BS.

 

[Markh1254]

The truck basically is mothballed in November and not driven again until April. Most of the driving is highway pulling a camper weighing ~10,000 lbs or a utility trailer weighing around ~2500 lbs.

I'm not aware of any other labs besides Blackstone. If you can recommend any others, I'd appreciate it!

 

[Grumpy8811]

The truck basically is mothballed in November and not driven again until April. Most of the driving is highway pulling a camper weighing ~10,000 lbs or a utility trailer weighing around ~2500 lbs.

I'm not aware of any other labs besides Blackstone. If you can recommend any others, I'd appreciate it!

some auto parts stores like O Reilly's, farm equipment dealers, and most heavy duty truck dealers can send off oil samples..

I'll give you a different thought,, all the other numbers look fine on your analysis , so is there anything you can do about the hi iron content without any other obvious
things to go by except running it out for another six month or one year period and rechecking..?

 

[AH64ID]

The truck basically is mothballed in November and not driven again until April. Most of the driving is highway pulling a camper weighing ~10,000 lbs or a utility trailer weighing around ~2500 lbs.

I'm not aware of any other labs besides Blackstone. If you can recommend any others, I'd appreciate it!

Dry starts from extended sitting could contribute to the higher iron. If you can I would try driving it every 2-3 weeks, at most, to avoid dry starts and see if the stats improve. Engines don’t like to sit for long periods of time, or only driven a few thousand miles a year.

OAI testing and Fleetguard are two companies recommended by Cummins for oil analysis.

 

[Diesel85]

Dry starts from extended sitting could contribute to the higher iron. If you can I would try driving it every 2-3 weeks, at most, to avoid dry starts and see if the stats improve. Engines don’t like to sit for long periods of time, or only driven a few thousand miles a year.

OAI testing and Fleetguard are two companies recommended by Cummins for oil analysis.

Why does Cummins use Polaris then?

 

[AH64ID]

Why does Cummins use Polaris then?

Which Cummins?

Rocky Mountain Cummins uses, and recommends, OAI testing.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Did you get a good flow before taking the sample?

 

[Diesel85]

Which Cummins?

Rocky Mountain Cummins uses, and recommends, OAI testing.

Cummins (the company itself) uses Polaris Labs for their fluid analysis.

You can buy the test kits right from Cummins Sales and Service (1-800-CUMMINS).

 

[AH64ID]

Cummins (the company itself) uses Polaris Labs for their fluid analysis.

You can buy the test kits right from Cummins Sales and Service (1-800-CUMMINS).

The Cummins website sells OAI testing kits, not Polaris labs. I’m not sure why they would sell something different over the phone.


https://shop.cummins.com/SC/product/oil-analysis-advanced-amp/01t4N0000048p36QAA

https://www.eoilreports.com/dashboard

 

[Diesel85]

The Cummins website sells OAI testing kits, not Polaris labs.


https://shop.cummins.com/SC/product/oil-analysis-advanced-amp/01t4N0000048p36QAA

https://www.eoilreports.com/dashboard

They are using Polaris Labs, because I had to call them about some information on my last Oil Analysis due to it not showing correctly in the Horizon portal due to my first submission and my lack of understanding on how it worked with their systems. Polaris had me corrected in a few minutes and I asked a bunch of questions and they were very, very helpful.

More proof right off my back shelf, because I called and ordered a box full of these test kits for coolant and oil analysis straight from the Cummins hotline:

You can just Google those addresses on the sheet:

 

[Tuesdak]

I change the oil every spring since the truck only is driven about 2,000 to 3,000 miles/year.

Change the oil before you mothball (store) it. This is how a "New" pickup arrives at the dealer and the 6 month oil change clock (for our model years) starts on the Date Of Sale. (Newer models have a longer 1 year oil change requirement.)

If you have any (extended) warranty the 6 month oil change called out in the owner's manual matters. Blackstone will not warranty an engine over their bad advice to ignore the OEM requirements. If it's not under warranty then you can do as you like.

Engines rust from sitting including from condensation. They rust to the point of locking up if they sit long enough in years. Rust = Iron in the oil sample. As above it's not a bad idea to run the engine, but, it's WORSE to run it if you don't get the engine up to operating temperature to burn off the water combustion makes and builds up in a cold engine during warm up.

I use a local lab, Lab One Inc, for my oil samples. I get a soot % that I am not sure how/if Blackstone reports. The fuel % in my oil samples has been Zero.

As you have some fuel in the oil I double down the advice of changing the oil before storage.

 

[AH64ID]

They are using Polaris Labs, because I had to call them about some information on my last Oil Analysis due to it not showing correctly in the Horizon portal due to my first submission and my lack of understanding on how it worked with their systems. Polaris had me corrected in a few minutes and I asked a bunch of questions and they were very, very helpful.

More proof right off my back shelf, because I called and ordered a box full of these test kits for coolant and oil analysis straight from the Cummins hotline:

View attachment 141719

You can just Google those addresses on the sheet:
View attachment 141720

That sheet off your back shelf states eoilreports.com, which is OAI testing.

Did Polaris and OAI merge?

 

[Diesel85]

That sheet off your back shelf states eoilreports.com, which is OAI testing.

Did Polaris and OAI merge?

From Googling, I learned something. Polaris and OAI are the same thing. Polaris is the actual lab that physically tests the fluids.

 

[AH64ID]

From Googling, I learned something. Polaris and OAI are the same thing. Polaris is the actual lab that physically tests the fluids.

There we go! Explains the confusion

 

[Diesel85]

There we go! Explains the confusion

Hopefully this helps someone having the same questions I did.

 

[06 Dodge]

The Cummins website sells OAI testing kits, not Polaris labs. I’m not sure why they would sell something different over the phone.


https://shop.cummins.com/SC/product/oil-analysis-advanced-amp/01t4N0000048p36QAA

https://www.eoilreports.com/dashboard

The UOA kit you linked to states its for "NON-ENGINE + COMPRESSED NATURAL GAS ENGINE", this link is the one to the kit we need to use and its a few $$ cheaper: https://shop.cummins.com/SC/product/standard-oil-smp/01t4N0000048p3JQAQ

 

[AH64ID]

The UOA kit you linked to states its for "NON-ENGINE + COMPRESSED NATURAL GAS ENGINE", this link is the one to the kit we need to use and its a few $$ cheaper: https://shop.cummins.com/SC/product/standard-oil-smp/01t4N0000048p3JQAQ

There are 4 oil sample kits that we can use.

My link also states it’s for diesel and gas engines, but it’s not as bold as the SMP. The one you linked is the standard kit and I linked the advanced kit.

The advanced kit adds oxidation/nitration testing. The advanced plus kit then adds TAN.

There is also a basic kit cheaper than the SMP you linked that has oxidation/nitration but not TBN.

IMO the AMP kit is the best bang for the buck and has the minimum tests for oil life and any extended drain intervals.

 

[Markh1254]

Did you get a good flow before taking the sample?

Not sure what you mean by "good flow".

This year, like in years past, I take the cover off and disconnect the battery tender. I start it, leave it idling for at least 15 minutes so that the oil and coolant are up to temperature. Remove the drain plug and after a several seconds, place the specimen bottle in the stream of oil and immediately cap it. I allow it to drain and let the oil filter cool - it's only accessible through the wheel wheel. That's pretty much the procedure I use.

I am beginning to believe from several other comments that I need to drive this truck in winter, not just occasionally start it and let it idle to temperature.

 

[AH64ID]

Not sure what you mean by "good flow".

This year, like in years past, I take the cover off and disconnect the battery tender. I start it, leave it idling for at least 15 minutes so that the oil and coolant are up to temperature. Remove the drain plug and after a several seconds, place the specimen bottle in the stream of oil and immediately cap it. I allow it to drain and let the oil filter cool - it's only accessible through the wheel wheel. That's pretty much the procedure I use.

I am beginning to believe from several other comments that I need to drive this truck in winter, not just occasionally start it and let it idle to temperature.

That's not a great practice for your engine. Cold idling is very hard on a diesel engine and is not reccomended by Cummins. Cummins also states that more than 10 minutes of idling per hour of operation is considered excessive, that's 16.6%. What is the percent idle time on your truck?

Yes, you need to drive it to get the oil up to temp and evaporate any water that's built up in the oil from excess idling.

The best way to warm your engine is to drive it, only let it idle for a few seconds then drive easy until it's warmed up.