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47RE rear band adjustment caused problem?

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My 98 12 Valve was due for transmission fluid/filter and band adjustment. I purchased the truck about 5 years ago. It had been serviced regularly by the previous owner/dealer. The transmission was installed by the dealer from his stock in 2011. This transmission has about 60K on it. Truck is pushing 300K.

Today, I changed fluid/filter in the pan and adjusted the rear band. There were no issues prior to changing fluid/filter and adjusting the rear band. I did not touch the other band. I just did a 5-hour drive in this truck two days ago. Shifted well, always has.

To adjust the band, I loosened the locknut several turns, screwed in the adjuster and torqued to 72 in-lbs. Backed off the adjuster 3 turns. tightened the locknut while holding the adjuster by hand. Then tightened the locknut with a socket. I did not hold the adjuster during the final locknut tightening, from finger tight to tight. However, I don't think I rotated the adjuster much during the torquing of the locknut. Maybe I did? The rear band adjusting lever was fairly "sloppy" before the adjustment but seemed snug afterward.

I put everything back together and filled it with ATF +4. Took it for a test drive. There's a problem.

If I first start the truck, put it in drive or reverse, it goes right in gear once or twice. However, subsequently moving it to reverse, or drive, it can take up to 4 seconds to go into gear. This is not the way it's always behaved, and something isn't right. Driving on my street, there's a good bit of slippage at times while in drive. I did feel one hard shift to second. Stopping, putting it in reverse, it takes several seconds to engage. Same time delay when I go back into drive. If I shut it off and let the truck sit for 15 minutes, then start it up and put it in D, or R, it goes right in gear once or twice. Thereafter it starts to delay when I put it in D or R. I tried this 3 times - same thing each time. Fluid has been checked while idling in neutral. It's at the top of the band. Checked again after the problems showed. Still at top of band. I didn't run it long enough to get it hot.

If you made it this far, I appreciate your patience. Did I over tighten the band? Are the symptoms it's exhibiting consistent with over tightening, or did I unknowingly mess something else up while I was in there? I fiddled with nothing else! Yes, I know how to use a torque wrench. I'm not a mechanic in real life, but I was one on a submarine when I was a young man. We used torque wrenches all the time. Yes, I used an in-lb wrench.

Before I drain, readjust, and try again, I thought I'd ask you folks for some help. Clearly, I've not got something right. I'd appreciate some thoughtful help, please.
 
I think that you should have been doing the torquing with a crows foot wrench attached to the torque wrench. That way you would have been able to hold the adjuster while applying torque. That way, you would have been able to keep it were it was at proper adjustment. I'd say that you got it over torqued when locking it down. Hopefully, you can start over with the procedure, and be able to get it to work out correctly. Good luck!
 
I think that you should have been doing the torquing with a crows foot wrench attached to the torque wrench. That way you would have been able to hold the adjuster while applying torque. That way, you would have been able to keep it were it was at proper adjustment. I'd say that you got it over torqued when locking it down. Hopefully, you can start over with the procedure, and be able to get it to work out correctly. Good luck!
Thanks for the reply! Yes, when I redo it, I'll definitely use a crows foot.
Do you, or anyone else know if the symptoms I now have are consistent with over tightened rear band?
 
I don't think your problems originate from the band, anyway the lever shouldn't be snug after all.
There needs to be about 1/8 of air between the piston and the lever when you pull the lever down by hand.

What filter did you use and are you perfectly sure that the level is spot on?
I find it incredibly hard to get a consistent reading on the 727 transmission.
Everytime I pull the dipstick it shows different. That was so unnerving that I installed a level, now I just fill in till it overflows and good it is the first time.
 
I don't think your problems originate from the band, anyway the lever shouldn't be snug after all.
There needs to be about 1/8 of air between the piston and the lever when you pull the lever down by hand.

What filter did you use and are you perfectly sure that the level is spot on?
I find it incredibly hard to get a consistent reading on the 727 transmission.
Everytime I pull the dipstick it shows different. That was so unnerving that I installed a level, now I just fill in till it overflows and good it is the first time.


Thanks for the reply. I honestly do not recall if there was an air gap. I'll pay more attention to that point when I redo it.

I used the NAPA ATP 15937 filter and pan gasket kit.

As you said, there sometimes is variability in taking the reading. And, as I mentioned, I never got it up to temperature. Still, the truck was working fine on a 5 hour trip a couple days earlier, so I trust that the level was sufficient for it to work correctly. I put the oil I drained from the pan into a couple empty gallon jugs. I'd estimate about 1.5 gallons. I put about 1.5 gallons of new ATF+4 back in, and the level reads at or a little above the top of the "hashed band". So, I have no indication that there is a level issue. But there's definitely an issue! I had to make the 5 hr run again yesterday, using my backup 98 12 valve truck.

Why do you feel the issue is not my rear band adjustment?

Appreciate your time and effort.
 
Filter is the right one, so no problems there..

What I don't see was the need to adjust the rear band, this is a double wrap design and almost never needs adjustment, curious on that.

Point is, this is simple hydraulics, either ut is on or off, the band adjustment only changes how the shifts are executed. Means the overlap from one gear to another, either it bind which is bad or it slips which is even worse.

So I don't see a direct connection between your adjustment to the problem you have now.
But better make sure that you have some slack in it. This is crucial.

The 72in/lbs are just a ballpark for fingertight/no slack and then back off 3 turns. So if you did the three turns it does not really matter if it would turn close a 1/4 turn by the final tightening. There would still be slack. Also a box end wrench is good enough for that jam nut, no torque wrench needed there.
 
Filter is the right one, so no problems there..

What I don't see was the need to adjust the rear band, this is a double wrap design and almost never needs adjustment, curious on that.

Point is, this is simple hydraulics, either ut is on or off, the band adjustment only changes how the shifts are executed. Means the overlap from one gear to another, either it bind which is bad or it slips which is even worse.

So I don't see a direct connection between your adjustment to the problem you have now.
But better make sure that you have some slack in it. This is crucial.

The 72in/lbs are just a ballpark for fingertight/no slack and then back off 3 turns. So if you did the three turns it does not really matter if it would turn close a 1/4 turn by the final tightening. There would still be slack. Also a box end wrench is good enough for that jam nut, no torque wrench needed there.


Well, I'm here to eat a bit of crow. I crawled back under the old gal, and started to pull the pan. I thought it was funny that there was no fluid leaking out as I got nearly all the bolts loosened up. Not a drop. Lowered the pan a bit and stuck a finger in it and found fluid, but certainly not where I expected it to be. At that point, it should have been raining fluid!

I have absolutely no idea how I must have misread the dipstick, multiple times. The amount I thought I'd drained and filled, I was guessing based on pouring the old fluid into partly filled used 2.5 gallon jug, and a used 1 gallon jug. I messed up.

Live and learn. Though it's far better to learn from the mistakes of others.

The reason I had adjusted the reverse band was because I had read that it should be adjusted every so often. I've since read (as often) don't touch the bands if there's no problem.

The truck is back on the road, shifting smooth. No leaks.

I appreciate the help folks have kindly given.

I'm off to go figure out how to restore my "Man Card".
 
Before doing service get trans to full operating temp and check fluid level. Now you know you are full or approximately how much fluid low you are.
Now do your service. Before adding fluid measure volume you removed and fill with the same volume.
 
Well, I'm here to eat a bit of crow. I crawled back under the old gal, and started to pull the pan. I thought it was funny that there was no fluid leaking out as I got nearly all the bolts loosened up. Not a drop. Lowered the pan a bit and stuck a finger in it and found fluid, but certainly not where I expected it to be. At that point, it should have been raining fluid!

I have absolutely no idea how I must have misread the dipstick, multiple times. The amount I thought I'd drained and filled, I was guessing based on pouring the old fluid into partly filled used 2.5 gallon jug, and a used 1 gallon jug. I messed up.

Live and learn. Though it's far better to learn from the mistakes of others.

The reason I had adjusted the reverse band was because I had read that it should be adjusted every so often. I've since read (as often) don't touch the bands if there's no problem.

The truck is back on the road, shifting smooth. No leaks.

I appreciate the help folks have kindly given.

I'm off to go figure out how to restore my "Man Card".

Better this then any other problem.
Front Band you can check occasionally when doing a fluid change, it helps the shift quality if is properly adjusted. But don't over doo it.
 
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