Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch Change

[KR4HS]

Getting ready to do a clutch change to an SBC MU 13-1. 25 Con OFE. After calling several places for Install prices I have decided to tackle the job myself. I have a couple of questions maybe someone can clarify. 1) must the trans and transfer case come out as a unit or can you break them apart without too much trouble. 2) Has anyone ever used one of the trans jack adapters that attach to your floor jack like you can get through Harbour Freight. 3) Can you change the do the change without raising the truck on jackstands (just lower the trans, slide it back out of the way, change the parts and push it back into place).



Thanks in advance.

 

[Mad Bomber]

Originally posted by KR4HS

Getting ready to do a clutch change to an SBC MU 13-1. 25 Con OFE. After calling several places for Install prices I have decided to tackle the job myself. I have a couple of questions maybe someone can clarify. 1) must the trans and transfer case come out as a unit or can you break them apart without too much trouble. 2) Has anyone ever used one of the trans jack adapters that attach to your floor jack like you can get through Harbour Freight. 3) Can you change the do the change without raising the truck on jackstands (just lower the trans, slide it back out of the way, change the parts and push it back into place).



Thanks in advance.

Well I can anwser # 2 and 3



#2 I bought the trans jack adapter from H. F. to change my clutch and it works fine. BUT IT MUST HOOK ON THE FLOOR JACK!!!!

#3 No you must get the truck up more for enough hieght get the 6 ton jack stands

 

[KR4HS]

Mad Bomber

Thanks for the response. The H. F. site said that all of their floor jacks were would fit . Don't know if Sears jacks would work. The H. F. site said the Trans Jack was rated for 880lbs. If it looks like it will handle the 5 speed and 241 together, I will go ahead and try dropping them as a unit. Hopefully I won't have to spread the Frame for the cross-member removal.

Thanks again!

George

 

[PC12Driver]

#1: The xfer case comes out easily. I think it was 6 nuts and it will slide right off. Just remember to disconnect the vacuum lines from the top and that it will leak fluid with the yoke removed.



#2: I used a trans jack adapter for my floor jack. A low profile floor jack would be preferred, but a standard one should work.



#3: The 4x4 doesn't need jack stands. The truck sits high enough that you can slide the transmission back a foot or so, do the clutch thing, and slide 'er right back.



Other tips: Use a bottle jack and a section of 4x4 wood to spread the frame rails a bit to get the cross member out. A lot easier than beating it out with a BFH. Watch the fuel lines when wiggling the cross member out of/in to position. Maybe disconnect their brackets so they give a bit if you hit them.



Also, the engine will fall forward when the transmission is removed. With the xfer case out and the cross member removed (and the transmission supported on the floor jack), lower the transmission a bit (an inch or two) and then support the front of the engine. That makes the top two transmission-to-engine bolts much easier to get to. And if you support the front of the engine, don't do it via the front pulley, since rotating the flywheel will also spin the pulley and kick out whatever is doing the supporting.

 

[krs]

KR4HS,



If you bop the crossmember UPWARD you won't need to use a spreader to get it out. It's wedge shaped downward - wider at top than at bottom. It won't have to go all that far before its top edge clears enough for you to move one side forward, one side aft. You can reinstall the same way - get it up in there, straighten it to crossframe then bop it downward until holes begin to align. Sometimes a little maddening since no matter how you attack it it's a tight fit.



BTW - Welcome to the Forum!



-Ken

 

[KR4HS]

PC12Driver-

Thanks for the good info..... I take it that you broke the Xfer Case and transmission apart. I have read that most people have removed them as a unit. Using the Transmission adapter for the floor jack, it seems like the C. G. might not be where it should be and break the adapter.

Good info on the engine dynamics with the transmission removed too! Appreciate the Help!

George

 

[Mad Bomber]

Clutch

I also have a off brand of floor jack but I modifiyed the trans jack to bolt it to the floor jack. You will have to spead the rails they are a real PITA to do. I also used a bottle jack and a 4X4 to spead them. That trans holder worked with a 6 speed just fine but I put 3 more straps on it to stay put better safe than sorry. I see your getting a really good clutch from a great company. I was having trouble letting it break in because I wanted to turn box on 5X5 and smoke the tires.

 

[KR4HS]

KRS-

I read on a couple of the archive articles that some people have been successful without spreading the frame. One post said to be sure to remove the mount from the transmission after unbolting from the Crossmember. I guess it gives you a little more room. Thanks for the help!



George

 

[Rob Thomas]

George,



Some of the cross members come out without a fight, and some are a PITA without spreading the frame a little. My trans has been out more times than I care to mention, and still requires me to spread the frame. However, I have removed some cross members with just my bare hands, luck of the draw.



Also, with a good stable trans jack, you can remove the trans, t-case, and front driveshaft as one unit, on a floor jack it may be more effort than it's worth. Like PC12driver said, theres only 6-bolts to remove the t-case.







Rob

 

[amillstream]

I have the 6spd but left the transmission and transfer case together. We just used another floor jack with the transmission jack to steady everything.

Its easier with more room to move if you use the jackstands to get the truck up higher but like above said you can still do it with 4x4's.

We had zero problems with the crossmember.

Good luck!

 

[KR4HS]

Thanks to Everyone for all the input. It will definately be alot easier job to tackle, thanks to all of your first hand experiences and great tips. It seem that renewing my TDR Membership each year is best money I spend.

 

[Mad Bomber]

new clutch

If I remember right it took about 4 or 5 hours to R & R the transmission that also included the fly wheel resuface. It also helps when there are 3 sets of hands doing it.

 

[shakey]

Question, when you removed the transmission did you remove the transmission from the bell housing or did you leave it bolted to the bell housing and removed it all as one whole unit?

 

[Tcolesanti]

I did'nt spread the frame. (Just used a prybar and a big deadblow). I did'nt separate the transfer case, and I removed the transmission and bellhousing together from the engine. Removing the transmission from the bellhousing is a wasted step that will just cost you more time. I had to set the transmission jack under the very back of the transmission to balance it out. I also did not use any jack stands-(did'nt need to. )

 

[obert]

Thank you Tcolesanti. The first time my transmission was out, i managed to get the cross member out without throwing tools or threatening anothers life, however i spent almost an hour getting it back in before i found prying in and hammering at the same time, thus eliminating the "bounce".



I have done this job twice on my truck, once on dad's, both mostly by myself. You will need help putting the clutch assy. in and aligning it, it is very heavy for the position you will be sitting -or lying- in.



I agree with no jack stands, but i had to take the shift-bar housing off the top of the transmission to clear the floor. I also did not use a trans jack, adaptor, or any thing. the trans/t-case/frt. drive shaft will all balance (carefully) on a reasonably sized jack plate-- 4"-6" -- the bottom of the trans is flat, i remember having the rear half of the trans setting on the jack.



I dont know your tool selection, but an air ratchet and deepwell 15mm(?) socket were incredibly handy in removal of the center support bearing. the deep well gives more finger room when on the bolt closest to the feul tank.

 

[Sticks]

Here is a instruction list that I wrote earilier this spring.



TOOLS:

· transmission jack

· 2 or 3 ratchet straps

· porta power (this will make removing the cross member MUCH eaiser) A bottle jack and a piece of 4x4 will work in a pinch. Drill a hole in the end of the 4x4 to allow the bottle jack shaft to go in the 4x4 a couple of inches

· Selection of wrenches, sockets, drifts/punches, and maybe a prybar or two.

· various other garage implements.





1. Jack the truck up front and rear so the tires are at least 6” off the ground. You can be lower, but it is so much easier to deal with the flywheel and clutch pak if you can be actually sitting under the truck.

2. Remove Front and rear drive shafts. You will have to remove the carrier bearing assembly for the rear as well. Use a rubber glove to put over the end of the transfer case to keep the oil from dripping all over.

3. Remove the skid plate.

4. Disconnect the various wires and hoses from the transmission and transfer case.

5. Disconnect the 4wd linkage from the transfer case

6. remove the vacuum lines (if you have the CAD) from the cross member and the frame.

7. Unbolt and remove the clutch slave cylinder and secure it out of the way.

8. Remove ALL BUT TWO of the transmission mounting bolts – one on each side.

9. Remove the two bolts from the exhaust mount on the rear of the transmission.

10. Disassemble the shift tower and remove the four bolts holding the stick to the transmission. Pull up on the stick assembly and set to the side.

11. Set the transmission jack under the transmission in the rear half of the transmission. Use a ratchet strap to help secure the transmission to the jack. Take care no to have the straps where they will get cut when the transmission comes down, and that the transmission will not roll over on the jack. Put just a little upward pressure on the transmission.

12. Remove the 8 nuts & bolts holding the cross member, and the 2 holding the transfer case mount

13. Set the porta power between the frame rails behind the cross member and slowly start to spread the frame. When the cross member is loose, remove the transfer case mount.

14. Continue to spread the frame until you can wiggle, and twist the cross member out DO NOT OVER SPREAD THE FRAME! Only spread it enough where you can slide the cross member slightly forward to get over the ridge to get it out. You may have to set the porta power behind the transfer case so you can slide the cross member towards the rear.

15. Once the cross member is removed verify that there is nothing still attached to the transmission (wires/vacuum lines, brackets attached to the truck somehow…) and remove the porta power

16. lower the transmission about 1 to 1. 5 inches.

17. Set another jack under the oil pan. With a piece of wood to distribute the weight, slowly lift the front of the engine so you have a little angle pointing down towards the rear of the truck. You may have to lower the transmission another inch.

18. Remove the last two bolts and split the transmission from the engine.

19. Pull the transmission straight back from the engine until the input shaft is clear of the clutch pak. Keep an eye on the shift tower so that it clears the access hole to the cab. You may have to lower the transmission some more, or lift the front of the engine.

20. Once the transmission is clear of the clutch, continue to slowly lower and push the transmission back. You may have to move slightly to the drivers side to clear the exhaust mount bracket.

21. Once the transmission is clear of obstruction, lower it all the way and slide back so that you can get to the clutch pak with ease.

NOTE Verify that you have the correct friction plate by fitting it on the input shaft of the transmission. DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE WITH GREASY HANDS!

22. Remove the uppermost pressure plate bolt and rethread by hand about ½ way in.

23. Using the clutch alignment tool from your new clutch, insert it into the friction plate and into the flywheel bearing

24. Remove the rest of the plate bolts in a star or criss cross pattern.

25. Keeping a good grip on the pressure plate, remove the last bolt from the pressure plate and remove the clutch pak from the flywheel

26. Remove and rethread the uppermost bolt on the flywheel

27. Remove the remaining bolts on the flywheel.

28. Using a dead blow or rubber mallet, smack the crap out of the flywheel until it breaks loose from the engine.

29. Keeping a firm grip on the flywheel, it weighs like 75#, remove the last bolt and remove the flywheel. OK it only weighs maybe 40, but 75 made you hold on to it a little better.

30. Have the flywheel ground by a shop that uses a grinder NOT A LATHE to resurface the flywheel.

31. Using a flashlight, look inside the bell housing of the transmission and on the left side (while you are looking at it) there is a keeper spring that is holding the clutch lever to the pivot point. You need to see how it os on there so you can put it back on the same way. Remove the clutch lever by pulling straight back, the retaining spring will come with it. Remove the throw out bearing and install the new one.

32. Reinstall the clutch lever in the transmission.

33. Once you have your flywheel back, thoroughly clean the surface with brake cleaner, including all the holes in the outer edge. When it is clean DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE WITH GREASY HANDS.

34. Remove the old pilot bearing and Lightly grease the new pilot bearing and insert it in the flywheel with the proper tools (a socket with the same diameter as the driver and a hammer works in a pinch). Clean any new grease marks on the flywheel

35. Hold the flywheel up to the engine and thread the upper most bolt to hold it in place, then thread the rest of the bolts. Tighten them to the proper torque (?) in a star or criss cross pattern.

36. Verify that you have the correct friction plate by fitting it on the input shaft of the transmission. DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE WITH GREASY HANDS!

37. Using the clutch alignment tool, insert it in the friction plate with the appropriate markings on the friction plate facing out and then insert the assembly into the pilot bearing on the flywheel.

38. Hold the pressure plate up to the flywheel, and thread the upper most bolt to hold it in place. Thread the rest of the mounting bolts into the pressure plate.

39. In a criss cross or star pattern tighten the mounting bolts one turn at a time BY HAND. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH!

40. Torque the bolts to the appropriate number (?)

41. Roll the transmission into position and begin jacking it up. You will have to move forward and up in small increments to clear the clutch assembly and the shift tower in the cab. Watch for anything the transmission may catch on (4wd linkage, clutch slave cylinder, wires, hoses…)

42. Once you have the transmission lined up and partially inserted into the clutch assembly, use another ratchet strap running from frame rail to frame rail near the transfer case to help hold that end up. This will allow you to make the minor adjustments to the angle while inserting.

43. Continue to move the transmission into the clutch, being careful not to force it. Using a drift in the dowel pin holes will help with the alignment. Use of a geared socket to turn the flywheel from the access port on the passenger side of the engine (opposite of the starter) may make aligning the splines easier. If you do not have the right tool, you can use a socket on the flywheel to turn the engine over.

44. Once the transmission is up against the engine, insert the mounting bolts and tighten them up.

45. Release the jack under the oil pan slowly while lifting the transmission up at the same speed.

46. Re-install everything removed in reverse order (16, 15, …1)