Recent Content by daverobb

My truck has electronic t-case control as well. At the time of purchase it was the compromise that I made. I wanted a lever. But I have to say that I have grown to like it. The floor space is more usable and I have had no troubles with it. I have found that each 4x4 that I've owned required a...

You can only shift into 4Lo if the truck is stopped and the trans is in N. You can shift into 4Hi on the fly, at any reasonable speed.

Ditto. I run my engine brake at all times.

I've owned too many Mopar vehicles over the years to count. Each and every one of them that had a Torqueflite 904 or 727 based transmission had a shift kit or shift improver kit added as soon as it came home from the dealer. This included later model over drive equipped 500s, 518s, 42, 44 and 46...

I've read that these things will only work on a stock truck. Put a programmer into play and the pressure fooler does not work.

My truck is 3. 73 rear gear equipped. At 100 KPH (62 MPH) the tach reads 1600, at 110 KPH (68 MPH) it reads 1750 and at 120 (74 MPH) it reads 1900 RPMs. These would be in 6th gear. In town, I never let the transmission shift higher than 4th. This keeps the 6. 7 in or near its sweet spot and...

You have to lube the trunnion at every oil change. I use a mini lithium gun with a small pointed grease tube or a needle. The mini gun works best.

I have changed mine, it takes about 20 minutes. I buy all the filters for my truck at Cummins. They are about 30% less than Mopar and less than getting them from Geno's and paying the freight.

I do a lot of travel trailer towing, about half of the 105,000 KMs has been with our 30' 8,000 LB travel trailer on the ball. I find it beneficial to manually help the transmission keep the engine in the high part of the torque curve. Whether hooked up or not, I try to keep the RPMs in the 1600...

I like my 285/70/17 Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armor Pro Grades. They have about 20,000 KMs on them and they are wearing well.

My '07 has 103000+ KMs. It is my daily driver and stock with the exception of a gutted intake tube and a 4" hole cut in the bottom of the stock air box. I have had no problems.

Both filters are in the pan. There is a small screw on canister type in front of the valve body and the usual valve body type in the centre.

Clear the code a time or two while the computer learns the new parameters. Then all should be good. Watch for dust leakage at the corners of these drop in filters. There have been problems with them not sealing to the air box top at the corners. Putting a thin layer of oil on the filters flange...

To each his own! You obviously missed my point!

Now, let me get this straight! I am running the truck on the same road and routes day to day, week to week, pulling/carrying the same load, locked on cruise running at the same speed, using fuel from the same station, tires inflated to the same pressure, etc, etc, etc. The only variable that is...